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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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heater problem

my wife has a 2000 expy e/b with digital climate controls for the front and regular for the rear....the heater blows luke warm front and rear most of the time,seems to get hotter the longer and faster you drive but def luke warm @ idle...i replaced water pump and thermostat and refilled system,got up to operating temp and let cool and topped off system...both heater hoses @ firewall get hot...a/c blows ice cold...am i missing something? what could be wrong?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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The blend door actuator is bad.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
The blend door actuator is bad.
The blend doors could be broken as well. It's a very common problem.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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and is there only 1 blend door?is there a fairly simple way to check this other than pulling the dash?has anyone tried the heatertreater fix?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 11:00 AM
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also why do you have to evacuate the a/c system to just replace the blend door?if it is the actuator is that easier to replace?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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the acuater should not effect the back so if its cold front and back could be air bubble or blockage
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 09:32 AM
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I used the heatertreater fix on my Explorer and it worked like a charm. Was fairly easy
to do also. Cost was about $125.00 with shipping.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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OP, I had this SAME exact problem. Your heater core is...plugged up is the best way to put it.

Even though I flushed my radiator twice, it doesn't really get the heater cores. What I did to fix it is cut one of the heater core hoses that are going into the firewall, flush the **** out of it. I mean garden hose, again, and again, and again. You have to do it in both directions too. I cut the return heater core hose and used the hose coming our of the top of the block (water pump?) to stick the hose into.

Get a flush kit from the LPS for $5 and be prepared to devote a couple hours to it. You might as well flush the entire system too.

It's incredibly easy, just make sure you do it right. And DON'T bump the pcv valve too much or you'll be replacing it, like me

Here is my thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ssues-doh.html

Oh, almost forgot. This worked perfectly for my heat. When I put it on defrost it still blows out cold. So I suspect I have blend door issues as well. Since I live in Florida I'm not to worried about it, I just needed the heater for my trip to NY for Christmas.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Londart
and is there only 1 blend door?is there a fairly simple way to check this other than pulling the dash?has anyone tried the heatertreater fix?

There is a way to get at the heater core through cutting a hole somewhere in your glove compartment. I guess works, search for it on this forum. I read about it a couple times. Supposedly save a lot of time.

The reason I mention this is if you flush it, change the blend door, and it still acts like this then your heater core is shot and will need to be replaced.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by manuel transmission
I'm not to worried about it, I just needed the heater for my trip to NY for Christmas.
You still need defrosters during a NY winter. Been there, done that!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
You still need defrosters during a NY winter. Been there, done that!

Yeah, but I just need the heat for the drive up there. My dad has a fleet of brand new vehicles I can use for the two weeks I'm there.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:24 PM
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SO THE BLEND DOOR WONT AFFECT FRONT AND REAR BUT THE 1 HEATER CORE WILL?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Londart
SO THE BLEND DOOR WONT AFFECT FRONT AND REAR BUT THE 1 HEATER CORE WILL?

There are two heater cores. The hoses that go into the firewall have a factory T fitting in them that goes down towards the bottom of the firewall. Those are for the second firewall. Doing a good job of flushing the hoses .....should.....get the back heater core as well.

Look at it this way: Do the flush. It's next to free (flush kit, fluid), and it's next to no effort. If that isn't it, you really haven't lost anything. If you try the door or the heater core first and that doesn't fix it, you'll be out a lot of money and a lot of time.

Always start with the easiest fix first if you don't know the exact cause of the problem.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Londart
SO THE BLEND DOOR WONT AFFECT FRONT AND REAR BUT THE 1 HEATER CORE WILL?
There are three blend doors in an expy with rear heat / AC. The one in the front controls temperature for the front only. Typically the axle of the door itself breaks in the front, not the actuator. The fix for this is either a dash pull or a heater treater. There are two blend doors in the rear, one controls airflow through the roof or floor vents, the other the temperature. Typical failure of these is the blend door actuator, not the door itself.

Based on your description of the problem in the front and back, I'd say it is not the blend door and I would go after the flush option first. It is the easiest of the things in front of you.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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thank you that answers my question....i originally thought to try and flush again but kept hearing about the blend door problem and wasn't sure if the 1 door controlled front and rear,now i know it doesnt
 
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