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5th Wheel Hitches, options?

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Old Dec 9, 2010 | 10:15 PM
  #31  
Str8shooter's Avatar
Str8shooter
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From: Bakersfield, CA
Originally Posted by RPARKER559
Does the Automatic Slide Pullrite SuperGlide hitch work on the 2011 short beds? I was under the inpression it wouldnt because you couldnt mount now because DEF tank is in the way ?
I choose the 16k Pullrite SuperGlide with SuperRails - works great for me. When I purchased the 5'er back in June, Pullrite was still developing the mounting brackets for the 2011. Fortunately, within a few weeks they completed their testing and sent me their first brackets. All is good and their brackets for the 2011 SD are readily available. The hitch is certainly not light weight and for that I installed a Harbor Freight 880 lb hoist in my garage to lift it out of the bed. The SuperRails allow me to have a totally clean bed when needed. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 06:15 PM
  #32  
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I haven't read all of the posts, but I had the b&w in my dodge and in the winter, if I had the ball hidden and when it would get moisture in the bed, I would usually have to use a propane torch to get it out to use it for trailers. I used a companion all last summer except our last camping trip and I never had an issue. My buddy has been using one for 3 years and he is on his third set of U clamps and second draw down bolt (adapts the square hole to companion). His could be an isolated instance, but I found enough others on different forums with the same problem that I went with the factory rails and installed myself. It cost me like $500 more than the b&w but I didn't want to deal with any problems with a brand new pickup when we are leaving for a trip.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:01 PM
  #33  
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Properly torquing the bolts on the B&W hitch will limit the problem you speak of. If you need new bolts, call B&W and they will send you what you need, NC
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:38 PM
  #34  
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Mayne Man
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From: Mayne Island
5th prep package

Originally Posted by sncbluegt
Epic these are some of my questions as well..From what I understand the slider isn't necessary but you just have to be carefull how sharp you turn when backing up. I've got the prep package and nobody every answered me on what I have to have to work with the factory hitch.
I've seen the B&w turn over ball package with the companion 5th wheel hitch and thats a pretty slick setup...IMO if I didn't have the factory stuff I wouldn't look anywhere else but B&w turnover style.

BTW what new toy you gettin?
I got the prep package and purchased the reece hitch locally when I got the truck. Nice neat setup. looks good and a smooth box when the hitch is removed.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:31 PM
  #35  
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Reagansd350
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Originally Posted by Mayne Man
I got the prep package and purchased the reece hitch locally when I got the truck. Nice neat setup. looks good and a smooth box when the hitch is removed.

What did the reese hitch cost you? I just picked up my truck and need to get the hitch, just wondering if they are dealing on them?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by rickatic
Properly torquing the bolts on the B&W hitch will limit the problem you speak of. If you need new bolts, call B&W and they will send you what you need, NC
He carries a 1/2" torque wrench in his camper for the hitch and was only torquing the u-bolts to 40 until I got the companion for my dodge and metioned it. He went through 2 sets putting it in and out 8 times per year before max. I know they will give you more but if I am hooking up after work to go camping and can't due to stripped bolts, I would be pisses.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #37  
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I have not seen this issue. I am still on the original u bolts. I do know that others have had some issues. Small price to pay, stocking a spare bolt or two for the best hitch in the industry.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #38  
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720Deere
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Originally Posted by rickatic
I have not seen this issue. I am still on the original u bolts. I do know that others have had some issues. Small price to pay, stocking a spare bolt or two for the best hitch in the industry.
This has pretty much been my experience as well. In over 3.5 years the hitch has been in and out of the truck more than 25 times and my U-bolts along with the tension bolt are all doing fine. I am not particular about the torquing the bolts either. The U-bolts are usually tightened and loosened with a cordless impact gun.

I figure sooner or later I will need to replace the nylon insert lock nuts, but I don't see any reason for constant failure on 5/8" bolts. It would be interesting to know what is causing this issue.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 05:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 720Deere
. It would be interesting to know what is causing this issue.
My thoughts exactly. I have enough going on that I don't need that unnecessary headache.

I used the companion for 4 trips with my truck and 2 times with my buddy's 08 duramax (which is why I do NOT like the newer gm trucks). Never had a problem. I've only used the reese fifth wheel once so I can't say "best in the industry" yet, but I will certainly say that unless something happens next year, I will say it is better. The gooseneck is better in my opinion though and I use the crap out of that. Nothing worse than having to carry a torch to go from flat bed carrying plywood in the morning to gooseneck trailer in the afternoon. Like I said, just my opinion. Every should remember that these posts are ALL opinions except in the rare instance.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 06:08 PM
  #40  
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Here's a picture of my little project today. Hitch is in, adjusted, and tested and works great. A bit more involved than I thought it would be. Six hours total from start to finish and I had a little help.

Someone tell me what you're talking about loosening the U-bolt nuts. Why do you need to do that when you can just remove the entire base with the vertical post and leave it in place?

Photo on next post:
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 06:11 PM
  #41  
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 06:18 PM
  #42  
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When you tighten the draw down bolt, it pullsit to the floor by pulling against the release pin. When you tighten the u bolts after, you have to loosen them to relieve the pressure against the pin.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 06:20 PM
  #43  
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How much surface area does the companion rest on where the corogations are missing for the integrated hitch?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 06:43 PM
  #44  
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Something is different on mine then. I am able to pull the pin under the fender Just fine and remove the base with the shaft in place. The base pulls straight up with the shaft attached. It works just like the animation on the B & W website.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #45  
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I think you may want to read Step 3 of the installation instructions again.

Also, you should not be able to disengage the latch pin in the wheel well when the base is installed correctly.
That is the last sentence in that step of the instructions. The idea is you torque the small bolt down to 40 ft/lbs in order to pull the hitch down to the bed and also prevent accidental disengagement from the gooseneck. After this is done then you torque the U-bolts to 80 ft/lbs. Once everything is in place correctly, you cannot remove the Companion without loosening the U-bolts and pull down bolt.

How much surface area does the companion rest on where the corogations are missing for the integrated hitch?
It's funny you mention this, because B&W has a kit just for this purpose. It appears to be spacer pads that stick onto the bottom of the Companion hitch to take up the space for the missing ribs in the 2011 bed.
 
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