352 Worth rebuilding?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
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From: York, Pa
352 Worth rebuilding?
I have a 352 that is just plain wore out. It has hardly and compression and thought was a possible rod knock. When I pulled the pan I noticed it actually wiped the cam bearings out. I pulled all rod caps and the bearings are wore even but WORE. I've never seen a piston just slide down a cylinder when the rod cap was removed till I opened this motor. Believe it or not it still started good and did not smoke. It still had the orignal Ford bearings in from what I seen said 1966 which matched the tag on the motor. So I dont believe it was ever apart.
Would it be worth it rebuild or try to find a decent 390 or something. I already got screwed earlier this week on a 390 that was supposed to have 60k on it. Turns out after a leak down test and compression it proved to be just as bad as the one I have so its going back.
Would it be worth it rebuild or try to find a decent 390 or something. I already got screwed earlier this week on a 390 that was supposed to have 60k on it. Turns out after a leak down test and compression it proved to be just as bad as the one I have so its going back.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 8
From: York, Pa
I hear that. Bigger is always better. I just am trying to figure out which direction is best to go. I know this motor is going to take about everything possible in a rebuild. The cam is walking back and forth hitting the lifters
The 352 is in my father inlaws 65 F100 that we are in the process of redoing. It doesnt need much power but certainly more than this one had... its a dog. I would think if it was fresh it would be plenty fine. We just dont know if it's worth putting the money into. I have no problem assembling it but its going to need some machine work.
The 352 is in my father inlaws 65 F100 that we are in the process of redoing. It doesnt need much power but certainly more than this one had... its a dog. I would think if it was fresh it would be plenty fine. We just dont know if it's worth putting the money into. I have no problem assembling it but its going to need some machine work.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Beatrice, NE
I would say try and make a deal on the 390 and use it as a core to rebuild. I have built various FE's over the years, everything from a standard 352 to stroked 406 with 400M rods. The 352 is a wonderful engine, but if you have to do machine work, you may as well do it on a 390 block & crank. What year is the 390? Does it have the early heads with the high port ceilings?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
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From: York, Pa
I don't know what year the 390 motor was I do know it was a later one since it had electronic ignition. We did a leak down test on it and put 100 psi in eac cyl most wouldnt hole more than 25 psi. We could hear and feel the air coming out the exhaust and intake. On the compression test 2 cylinder made 75 psi all the others were less. That motor is being returned tonight. I didn't even feel like pulling the heads off after I seen that.
When we put air in the cyl with all the other plugs out it would even spin the motor over
So much for a 60k mile motor
When we put air in the cyl with all the other plugs out it would even spin the motor over
So much for a 60k mile motor
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
The 352 is a good engine and if it fits your needs it is worth a rebuild. I'm from the school of "Too much is almost enough" so I would like something bigger myself. You know your engine and if it was doing okay for you in the past it will do much better if it's properly rebuilt.
Postmaster
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From: Littleton, CO
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 235
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From: Beatrice, NE
You know, on paper, the 360 should have been a hard running motor. They have a nice rod-to-stroke ratio with more cubes than a 352. Too bad they got low compression and smog crap. I've never looked, but I suppose you can get decent pistons for a 360 that don't have a reduced compression height and end up with 7.5:1 compression?
I have taken a C6ME 352 block out to 4.11" before, but the cylinder walls did some funny things during the hone process. I would pay to have the block sonic checked before going much over +.030".
Even if you stick with the 352, with a quality stock rebuild, you will be impressed with the power. If you install a set of headers, 4V and electronic ignition, It will really wake it up.
I have taken a C6ME 352 block out to 4.11" before, but the cylinder walls did some funny things during the hone process. I would pay to have the block sonic checked before going much over +.030".
Even if you stick with the 352, with a quality stock rebuild, you will be impressed with the power. If you install a set of headers, 4V and electronic ignition, It will really wake it up.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Something to keep in mind most fe's for sale are Jasper rebuilt 390s. Some sellers are less modest and are selling fresh 428s. They're positive because they can tell just by looking at them!!! When you get them home they are 360s but might have new gaskets and/or overspray. Don't think its on purpose as much as these motors are pretty much impossable to identify externally.
I had a 65 F100 with a rebuilt 352 mild cam 4 barrel and headers and it was an animal!!! Don't be afraid to buy a core for a 390 but pay core price. Stroke it to see if its a 390 or 360 before buying.
I had a 65 F100 with a rebuilt 352 mild cam 4 barrel and headers and it was an animal!!! Don't be afraid to buy a core for a 390 but pay core price. Stroke it to see if its a 390 or 360 before buying.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Please tell why it would be necessary to stroke it before buying a core since they are the same bore block.
John
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: York, Pa
Thanks for the suggestions. We still havent decided what we are going to do with this motor yet. The past couple evenings I've taken more of it apart amd it does not look good. Once I pull the cam I suspect I will find that this block is no good.
Sometime soon here I'm supposed to go look at and hear a "good" 390" out of a tow truck but I'm not holding my breath after that last boat anchor I brought home.
Sometime soon here I'm supposed to go look at and hear a "good" 390" out of a tow truck but I'm not holding my breath after that last boat anchor I brought home.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Please tell why it would be necessary to stroke it before buying a core since they are the same bore block.
If it strokes out as a 390 it already has a 390 crank and rods. You then have saved considerable money as you don't have to buy 390 crank and rods as you already have them. Cheaper to machine parts you would now have then to buy a 360 engine with 360 crank and rods in a core engine then buy a 390 crank and rods and pay machining.
Until you measure the stroke its being sold as a 390 at a 390 price. Once you measure the stroke if its a 360 at a 390 price walk away.
How did I do?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 235
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From: Beatrice, NE
Something to keep in mind most fe's for sale are Jasper rebuilt 390s. Some sellers are less modest and are selling fresh 428s. They're positive because they can tell just by looking at them!!! When you get them home they are 360s but might have new gaskets and/or overspray. Don't think its on purpose as much as these motors are pretty much impossable to identify externally.
I had a 65 F100 with a rebuilt 352 mild cam 4 barrel and headers and it was an animal!!! Don't be afraid to buy a core for a 390 but pay core price. Stroke it to see if its a 390 or 360 before buying.
I had a 65 F100 with a rebuilt 352 mild cam 4 barrel and headers and it was an animal!!! Don't be afraid to buy a core for a 390 but pay core price. Stroke it to see if its a 390 or 360 before buying.
Around here, you can still find a good used 428 Industrial block off of irrigation units if you know who to talk to.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,099
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From: York, Pa
Does anyone know how it's possible for the cam to "walk" back and forth hitting the lifters with everything in place as it should be? The plate was on the front of the block. The more I look at it I just don't understand how it's even possible. I can't believe cam bearings are totally the culprit.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,584
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
LOL! My brother got burnt on that one. He thought it would be cheaper to buy a commercially rebuilt 390 for his '67 Fairlane GT convertable. Turned out to be a 7.5:1 compression 360. He went back to them and they gave him a 390 crank for free. We thought we could at least re-use the C6ME block, but it looked to be bored out to finish and never touched with a hone. All the main bearings showed copper, and when we installed the new 390 crank it wouldn't turn. Turns out, they grind the cranks without a backstop on the machine and the mains were all out of round due to crank flex. They told us they just install a 5hp electric motor on the crank and force spin the motor to "break it in". All we got was a crappy .030 bored block that needed another .010 and a boat anchor crank. I will never buy a rebuilt unless I know who built it!
Around here, you can still find a good used 428 Industrial block off of irrigation units if you know who to talk to.
Around here, you can still find a good used 428 Industrial block off of irrigation units if you know who to talk to.
They should have gone to jail.