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would the 5.9 give me room under the hood for when something does break? and right now i got a rebuilt 302 and the thing is a good motor if i wanted to just mud but on a i range 8-11mpg as a daily driver.
it would be much cheaper,much easier,and you would much further ahead if you simply sold your light duty and got a hold of a nice f250hd/350 with an idi to start with for what you want to do.
it would be much cheaper,much easier,and you would much further ahead if you simply sold your light duty and got a hold of a nice f250hd/350 with an idi to start with for what you want to do.
if i had a f250 or f350 i wouldnt worry bout all this and have a 7.3L but my f150 is my baby. ill never leave her nor will she ever lit me down but i cant handle the 8-11mpg and nearly no pullin power. i got my truck set up to pull any trailer and all mine are easy to pull and stop with when it comes to the axles and brakes. but the engine just doesnt have the torque to pull at interstate speed.
would the 5.9 give me room under the hood for when something does break? and right now i got a rebuilt 302 and the thing is a good motor if i wanted to just mud but on a i range 8-11mpg as a daily driver.
i was at almost 16 mpg with my HD as SRW with this big stake bed pushing lots of wind! and 3.84 gear ratio.
that's with real loads on her too.couple ton at a time very often.
im currently at 14.80 average MPG @ 40 tanks,now with duals!
so don't think you need a "little" diesel to get good fuel economy.
im talking real world AVERAGE MPG's as WORKING too.not cruising the interstate and making claims of "peaks".true,honest,accurate average mpgs.
some other guys running SRW,stock tire sizes with 3.55's and stock beds can mop the floor with my fuel economy.
hit up ebay for some prices on the early diesel 4wd's.
you may be pleasantly surprised.figure out what you could sell your f150 for,and you may be really happy with the cost of making the swap.
i was at almost 16 mpg with my HD as SRW with this big stake bed pushing lots of wind! and 3.84 gear ratio.
that's with real loads on her too.couple ton at a time very often.
im currently at 14.80 average MPG @ 40 tanks,now with duals!
so don't think you need a "little" diesel to get good fuel economy.
im talking real world AVERAGE MPG's as WORKING too.not cruising the interstate and making claims of "peaks".true,honest,accurate average mpgs.
some other guys running SRW,stock tire sizes with 3.55's and stock beds can mop the floor with my fuel economy.
hit up ebay for some prices on the early diesel 4wd's.
you may be pleasantly surprised.figure out what you could sell your f150 for,and you may be really happy with the cost of making the swap.
na i already kno my value of the truck is bout $3000 but to me the value is more. truly this truck is my pride. although i had others but i wont git rid of her. what engine you got in your truck then? cuz i would love to have a 7.3L but i got a buddy that did that to has truck and there nearly no room to work
if i had a f250 or f350 i wouldnt worry bout all this and have a 7.3L but my f150 is my baby. ill never leave her nor will she ever lit me down but i cant handle the 8-11mpg and nearly no pullin power. i got my truck set up to pull any trailer and all mine are easy to pull and stop with when it comes to the axles and brakes. but the engine just doesnt have the torque to pull at interstate speed.
Your not comprehending this: YOUR TRUCK IS NOT RATED TO TOW THAT BIG A LOAD. YOU NEED A HEAVIER DUTY TRUCK. OTHERWISE YOU PUT EVERYONE ELSE ON THE ROAD AT RISK B/C YOU CANNOT STOP OR TAKE OFF OR HANDLE PROPERLY DUE TO THE WEIGHT OF EVERYTHING AND YOUR TRUCK.
Im sorry Im being a jerk, but there is a reason your truck is rated to tow maximum 5000lbs. Keep your F150, buy a diesel or HD gasser truck to tow with.
loads of room to work.no emissions nor computer controlled.
well,i read that often.people getting attached to a vehicle.
i never agreed with it,but i understand it.
keep in mind,the frame is much larger,the suspension much beefier,and the brakes also much larger.the whole truck is much safer to use than a light duty,for what your after.
best of luck to ya.
would the 5.9 give me room under the hood for when something does break?
Yes, there is more than enough room to put a 5.9 under the hood and still be able to work on it. Of the things you can realistically expect to break on a 6BT, you're looking at alternator, starter, AC compressor & water pump. The internals on these engines are massive, and short of downright abuse, such as no oil or overheating, you'll be hard pressed to tear one up.
Realistic fuel mileage out of a 6BT swap is 16-18mpg, empty and not trying to black smoke everything in sight. If you overuse the stupid pedal, it will effect your mileage. Towing, I've gotten as bad as 8, and as good as 14. I've had a 4.10 & a 3.55 rear ends under my truck, and have found that there isn't much difference in overall fuel economy. You run a bit higher in the RPM range with the 4.10's but the the engine isn't working as hard. You run lower in the RPM range with the 3.55's, but the engine works a bit harder. "Works harder" & "isn't working as hard" are based off of boost & EGT readings at the same speed with each rear end. Not the most scientific basis for a comparison, but its real world tested.
For reference, my 12V is a '94 model with the 175hp pump. Its stock except for the "0" plate & Banks Twin Ram intake. Both were installed before I bought the donor truck. My clutch is the parts store heavy duty upgrade version, and I've never had any problems with slippage.
Several folks have suggested the 4BT. If you intend on towing, don't waste your time. The 4bt is perfect for a small truck, or a jeep. A full size is just too much weight & wind resistance for a 4bt to pull comfortably. If you mod the hell out of a 4bt, you can bump the output up to the 3-350hp range. Or you can start with a 6bt, and lay down the same numbers with a fuel plate and some timing.
Your not comprehending this: YOUR TRUCK IS NOT RATED TO TOW THAT BIG A LOAD. YOU NEED A HEAVIER DUTY TRUCK. OTHERWISE YOU PUT EVERYONE ELSE ON THE ROAD AT RISK B/C YOU CANNOT STOP OR TAKE OFF OR HANDLE PROPERLY DUE TO THE WEIGHT OF EVERYTHING AND YOUR TRUCK.
Im sorry Im being a jerk, but there is a reason your truck is rated to tow maximum 5000lbs. Keep your F150, buy a diesel or HD gasser truck to tow with.
bud over the years i made my truck in to a pullin truck apart from the engine and tranny it has 3/4 ton axles and brakes with 4.10 gears and every trailer i have has trailer brakes the full suspension is heavy duty f350 springs i put them on for a easy and cheaper lift and you'll be surprises what i have towed with it but i cant tow on the interstate cuz the fast my truck goes with towin is bout 45mph and i drop down to bout 6-7 mpg. my truck is safe to tow but the engine cant handle the stress anymore. i even hooked afew goose neck to it acouple of time. it doesnt sag like you would think.
Yes, there is more than enough room to put a 5.9 under the hood and still be able to work on it. Of the things you can realistically expect to break on a 6BT, you're looking at alternator, starter, AC compressor & water pump. The internals on these engines are massive, and short of downright abuse, such as no oil or overheating, you'll be hard pressed to tear one up.
Realistic fuel mileage out of a 6BT swap is 16-18mpg. I've had a 4.10 & a 3.55 rear ends under my truck, and have found that there isn't much difference in overall fuel economy. You run a bit higher in the RPM range with the 4.10's but the the engine isn't working as hard. You run lower in the RPM range with the 3.55's, but the engine works a bit harder. "Works harder" & "isn't working as hard" are based off of boost & EGT readings at the same speed with each rear end. Not the most scientific basis for a comparison, but its real world tested.
For reference, my 12V is a '94 model with the 175hp pump. Its stock except for the "0" plate & Banks Twin Ram intake. Both were installed before I bought the donor truck. My clutch is the parts store heavy duty upgrade version, and I've never had any problems with slippage.
Several folks have suggested the 4BT. If you intend on towing, don't waste your time. The 4bt is perfect for a small truck, or a jeep. A full size is just too much weight & wind resistance for a 4bt to pull comfortably. If you mod the hell out of a 4bt, you can bump the output up to the 3-350hp range. Or you can start with a 6bt, and lay down the same numbers with a fuel plate and some timing.
yea so what trucks would be a good donor to git the 5.9L and idk if i want a automatic or manual transmission yet
this thread has already made a few key points, like, your truck is not rated for that towing weight and it would be cheaper and easier to just trade to a more suitable truck.
another technical issue is a heavy 6bt or idi-like motor will really stress that truck's frame, suspension, and driveline.
that said i do think a 4bt swap is viable. i put a 4bt in my 1971 f250 4x4. went from about 7 to 23mpg. over the last 2 summers i have used 528 gallons and traveled just under 12k miles. but to get good mileage you need overdrive (zf5 in my case) and gears (3.55).
but do it for love, not mileage. its a TON of work, especially with an older truck. and a lot of parts scrounging. and yes they are noisey and underpowered. but i love it and all i wish the truck had now was more gears... and air conditioning.
We are new here, have a decent '92 F150 4x4, head is cracked, so thinking of rebuilt engine, like diesels, any links to help us would be appreciated, we live on a 4.5 mile gravel hilly road, then rough roads in Arkansas. As far as towing, i know our limitations, only would be a small stock trailer, or lite tent or 5th wheeler, nothing super heavy. Looking for mileage , durability , as quiet as possible , but no delusions on this. It is siting at a reliable shop now. Thanks in advance, AJ and Denise
this thread has already made a few key points, like, your truck is not rated for that towing weight and it would be cheaper and easier to just trade to a more suitable truck.
another technical issue is a heavy 6bt or idi-like motor will really stress that truck's frame, suspension, and driveline.
that said i do think a 4bt swap is viable. i put a 4bt in my 1971 f250 4x4. went from about 7 to 23mpg. over the last 2 summers i have used 528 gallons and traveled just under 12k miles. but to get good mileage you need overdrive (zf5 in my case) and gears (3.55).
but do it for love, not mileage. its a TON of work, especially with an older truck. and a lot of parts scrounging. and yes they are noisey and underpowered. but i love it and all i wish the truck had now was more gears... and air conditioning.
kevin
i admit tradin my truck would be easier but i just cant and you gotta understand that and truly my truck aint exactly a g150 anymore anyways cuz the only thing thats a f150 is the engine transmission body and frame. i towed afew things that a 3/4 ton wouldnt be rated at but but the engine cant handle the stress anymore. and with the engine swap it be a 3/4 ton basicly cuz then it be just the frame and body which i wont change
So you have a ttb44 or 50 or a 60 under the front with leaf springs and a full floater sterling with the wider leafs in the rear? Frame is however still the weak point. I would LOVE to see some pics.
So you have a ttb44 or 50 or a 60 under the front and a full floater sterling in the rear? Frame is still the weak point. I would LOVE to see some pics.
my axles are out of a 95 f250 with 4.10 gears with f250 disc brakes on all 4, nearly new f350 springs under it. did it for a easy lift but they hold the weight. ya'll think my truck cant pull the stuff but it can and does i just need a engine and transmission to be able to handle the stress.
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