Another charging problem thread
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New User
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From: Washington Lowlands
Another charging problem thread
I've looked around a bit on this and had a couple questions about the charging trouble on my 2000 Ranger 2.5L
Last Friday I suddenly noticed some burny electronics smell coming from my truck while driving it. Seemed to keep running fine so I kept driving it to work. On the way home from work about 5 miles from home, my radio turned off and I looked at the gauges: voltage way low.
I popped the hood while it was running and noticed no weird noises coming from the alternator. Turned it off and inspected the belt, seems tight, no damage, it isn't slipping.
Today I took it to the auto parts store on the last bit of charge in the battery and had them put their tester on it. Battery dead (makes sense since I ran it with no charge going to it), and their diagnostic tool showed a failure at the Voltage Regulator.
My experience with various other vehicle tells me that the VR and the Alternator are usually contained in the same unit, but the gal at Autozone brought up a separate voltage regulator for my model Ranger.
Two questions:
Last Friday I suddenly noticed some burny electronics smell coming from my truck while driving it. Seemed to keep running fine so I kept driving it to work. On the way home from work about 5 miles from home, my radio turned off and I looked at the gauges: voltage way low.
I popped the hood while it was running and noticed no weird noises coming from the alternator. Turned it off and inspected the belt, seems tight, no damage, it isn't slipping.
Today I took it to the auto parts store on the last bit of charge in the battery and had them put their tester on it. Battery dead (makes sense since I ran it with no charge going to it), and their diagnostic tool showed a failure at the Voltage Regulator.
My experience with various other vehicle tells me that the VR and the Alternator are usually contained in the same unit, but the gal at Autozone brought up a separate voltage regulator for my model Ranger.
Two questions:
- I should trust the diagnostic tool because it probably is the Voltage Regulator, right?
- Does this model (2000 Ranger 2.5-4cyl) indeed have an external regulator?
Last edited by cpt_gloval; Dec 7, 2010 at 07:40 PM. Reason: bad english
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New User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Washington Lowlands
I dug into it this morning and noticed the brown-orange wire that connects to the bolt on the rear of the alternator is all toasted. That's probably why it isn't charging.
I took a bad phone pic. It kind of disintegrated as soon as I touched it. The copper cable seems well-intact but the connector and sheathing for the end is trashed and completely disconnected.
What does this indicate? Where do I go from here?
I took a bad phone pic. It kind of disintegrated as soon as I touched it. The copper cable seems well-intact but the connector and sheathing for the end is trashed and completely disconnected.
What does this indicate? Where do I go from here?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
If you mean the thick black w/orange stripe wire, you can try repairing the connector by cutting off the corroded end and crimping on a new copper ring terminal (after thoroughly cleaning everything, of course).
Remember to disconnect the battery when making any electrical repairs.
Remember to disconnect the battery when making any electrical repairs.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Washington Lowlands
I am definitely going to try and do that with hopes that it's the only problem I face. What might cause that to disintegrate like that, possibly oxidation catalyzed by salt air? I do park it near the shore.
Also, do you happen to know what gauge wire it is (for finding the proper sized terminal)?
Thanks for your help.
Also, do you happen to know what gauge wire it is (for finding the proper sized terminal)?
Thanks for your help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
The salt air sounds like a good culprit. The Ford Manual doesn't indicate the gauge of the wire, but I've seen packs of multiple size ring terminals for only a few bucks or so at local parts or electronics stores.
You should also keep in mind that there is a "fuse link" in the circuit. If repairing the corroded terminal doesn't do the trick, you might be looking at a blown fuse link (although I believe that would cause a complete shutdown of the charging system). From the Ford Manual:
P.S. The same terminal on my Ranger's alternator is protected by a rubber boot, similar to what you would see on a lawnmower spark plug. So that area needs to be protected. A good smothering of dielectric grease on the terminal after your all hooked up would probably suffice.
You should also keep in mind that there is a "fuse link" in the circuit. If repairing the corroded terminal doesn't do the trick, you might be looking at a blown fuse link (although I believe that would cause a complete shutdown of the charging system). From the Ford Manual:
"The generator output circuit 38 (BK/O) is supplied through the battery positive voltage (B+) output connection to the battery and electrical system. The B+ circuit is hot at all times. This circuit is protected by a fuse link....
The fuse link is a short length of insulated wire integral with the engine compartment wiring harness. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit that it protects. The fuse link for the generator is a 12-gauge gray wire.
Ranger vehicles use a fuse link in the generator output circuit and a fuse in the voltage regulator A circuit.
The fuse link is designed to burn out, thus protecting the wiring when heavy reverse current flows, such as when a booster battery is connected incorrectly, or a short to ground occurs in the wiring harness.
A burned-out link may have bare wire ends protruding from the insulation, or bubbled insulation with illegible identification. If it is hard to determine if the link is burned out, perform a continuity test.
Service fuse links are brown, green or black depending on usage. All fuse links have a flag moulded on the wire or on the terminal insulator. Color identification of the flag or connector is gray 12-gauge wire. "
The fuse link is a short length of insulated wire integral with the engine compartment wiring harness. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit that it protects. The fuse link for the generator is a 12-gauge gray wire.
Ranger vehicles use a fuse link in the generator output circuit and a fuse in the voltage regulator A circuit.
The fuse link is designed to burn out, thus protecting the wiring when heavy reverse current flows, such as when a booster battery is connected incorrectly, or a short to ground occurs in the wiring harness.
A burned-out link may have bare wire ends protruding from the insulation, or bubbled insulation with illegible identification. If it is hard to determine if the link is burned out, perform a continuity test.
Service fuse links are brown, green or black depending on usage. All fuse links have a flag moulded on the wire or on the terminal insulator. Color identification of the flag or connector is gray 12-gauge wire. "
Thread Starter
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New User
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From: Washington Lowlands
Do you happen to know where the fuse link on the 00 Ranger is located? I should like to make a quick inspection.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2001
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I've looked around a bit on this and had a couple questions about the charging trouble on my 2000 Ranger 2.5L
Last Friday I suddenly noticed some burny electronics smell coming from my truck while driving it. Seemed to keep running fine so I kept driving it to work. On the way home from work about 5 miles from home, my radio turned off and I looked at the gauges: voltage way low.
I popped the hood while it was running and noticed no weird noises coming from the alternator. Turned it off and inspected the belt, seems tight, no damage, it isn't slipping.
Today I took it to the auto parts store on the last bit of charge in the battery and had them put their tester on it. Battery dead (makes sense since I ran it with no charge going to it), and their diagnostic tool showed a failure at the Voltage Regulator.
My experience with various other vehicle tells me that the VR and the Alternator are usually contained in the same unit, but the gal at Autozone brought up a separate voltage regulator for my model Ranger.
Two questions:
Last Friday I suddenly noticed some burny electronics smell coming from my truck while driving it. Seemed to keep running fine so I kept driving it to work. On the way home from work about 5 miles from home, my radio turned off and I looked at the gauges: voltage way low.
I popped the hood while it was running and noticed no weird noises coming from the alternator. Turned it off and inspected the belt, seems tight, no damage, it isn't slipping.
Today I took it to the auto parts store on the last bit of charge in the battery and had them put their tester on it. Battery dead (makes sense since I ran it with no charge going to it), and their diagnostic tool showed a failure at the Voltage Regulator.
My experience with various other vehicle tells me that the VR and the Alternator are usually contained in the same unit, but the gal at Autozone brought up a separate voltage regulator for my model Ranger.
Two questions:
- I should trust the diagnostic tool because it probably is the Voltage Regulator, right?
- Does this model (2000 Ranger 2.5-4cyl) indeed have an external regulator?
you are better off getting a new alt so you get a new reg as well.
the alts on that truck drop like flys. I replaced mine with a 200 amp from mralternator.com. very happy with my new alt
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
Follow the wire harness and hopefully you'll find it. Sometimes they can be a PITA to locate...
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,208
Likes: 13
That wire has been hot. either a loose connection or a short in that wire. Trace it out. It goes back to the power distribution box and attaches on the same post that the battery cable connects to. Check for damage
