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Hello - I'm looking for some help!!! First some specs - V-10, 140K - I've only had it a week and put around 70 miles in it. Most of the week has been spent with cleaning it up and doing all the maintainence(Oil, Tranny flush, Rear Diff fluid Change and Radiator flush. Also I washed the engine...Very light spray, but still washed it. I put all the 70 miles on it after the engine was washed and it ran great. I noticed a slight stumble...then it went away??
It started running consistantly rough today....I instantly thought coil pack...but no codes?? I picked up a coil pack anyway and actually pulled off all the connectors to the coils, one by one to see if I could feel the slight difference in the idol...which I did, which meant they are all working????
So now I'm kinda thinking Fuel Filter or Plugs...which I just picked up....What do you think? Would a 140k fuel filter cause this? I may have been changed but I'm just assuming it wasn't.
Well you may have gotten water down some of the plug holes. Pull all the COPs off and blow out the plug wells and boots with compressed air and then get you some silicone(dielectric) grease and lube up the boots before putting them on. Also do this on the COP side of the boot. If you destroy them getting them off the COP then replace the boots and grease before doing so. If you are going to do this you might as well replace the plugs before one comes unscrewed. Did you notice the idle miss before soaking the engine? I have been wanting to hose mine off but I did not want to get water in the plug wells. I had to replace the IAC valve to get mine to idle while cold.
I getting really frustrated with this.....it's doing it again after I ended up replacing ALL the Coil Packs????? All day on this thing and alot of $$$$ and it's still doing it....not as bad and actually not right now, but after 45 minutes of running well, it starts to stumble. Do you think it could be fuel? Like I said before I've already changed the fuel filter, all the plugs and Coil Packs...what else could it be???
Really need some help here - Thanks
Did you change out the boots to the spark plugs as well when you changed the plugs and coils? I assume you did since new coils comes with new boots.
Yes - They came with the boots so in they went. I did put Dielectic(SP) grease on everything except the bottom of the plug(just in case you were thinking it-lol) but is there such a thing as too much of this? Would it make it do it intermittent? IDK???
Hmm...I'm going to suggest checking the wiring to your camshaft position sensor. Maybe something came loose or you're getting poor contact. May have loosened it when you cleaned the engine compartment. If wiring looks good, maybe try the camshaft position sensor itself.
My Wife's Subaru ran rough because of a bad cam sensor but there was a code in the computer. Does it have a K&N air cleaner on it? Sometimes the MAF can get dirty and cause problems.
"Hmm...I'm going to suggest checking the wiring to your camshaft position sensor. Maybe something came loose or you're getting poor contact. May have loosened it when you cleaned the engine compartment. If wiring looks good, maybe try the camshaft position sensor itself. "
Where would I find that? Thanks
Originally Posted by perryg114
My Wife's Subaru ran rough because of a bad cam sensor but there was a code in the computer. Does it have a K&N air cleaner on it? Sometimes the MAF can get dirty and cause problems.
Perry
Funny I just put a K&N in today when I repalced all the coil packs. I did think to clean the MAF but I would think it would throw a code??? It can't hurt so I'll clean it tomorrow. I moved the truck in my driveway a couple hours ago and it fired right up and ran smooth, definitely seems like it does it more when it's hot. I also put an additive in the fuel to take any moisture out, can't think of the name of it but it's supposed to work well. I'll drive the hell out of it tomorrow and see what happens.
It's to the right side of your alternator just below the right black valve cover on the aluminum block as you are looking under the hood. It should have a wiring harness attached to it. The sensor is held in the block by a bolt.
It's about at the 2 o'clock position from the missing idler pulley on all the V10s (the threaded hole with nothing attached to it and looks like an idler pulley should go there). Check that wiring harness and see if you may have accidentally knocked it loose.
It's to the right side of your alternator just below the right black valve cover on the aluminum block as you are looking under the hood. It should have a wiring harness attached to it. The sensor is held in the block by a bolt.
It's about at the 2 o'clock position from the missing idler pulley on all the V10s (the threaded hole with nothing attached to it and looks like an idler pulley should go there). Check that wiring harness and see if you may have accidentally knocked it loose.
Thanks, i'll do that tomorrow. I think I'll clen the MAF & TB as well. Can I just spray carb cleaner in the TB?
Make sure that you unhook the battery for a bit after the cleaning of the maf and such. This will reset the computer and it will then take a few days to adjust all the perameters to your driving style. It will in no way run bad thru this process.
Might want to also check for a loose or cracked hose on the passenger side that you might of moved to get at the plugs on that side.
As for washing the engine it should be no problem if you have the dielectric grease on the boots and regular washing will not hurt it in any way. I do wash mine out a few times a year with no issues. This is only an issue that is seen on the trucks that seem to get purchased used with unknown maint on them. But always scarry when it happens.
Make sure that you unhook the battery for a bit after the cleaning of the maf and such. This will reset the computer and it will then take a few days to adjust all the perameters to your driving style. It will in no way run bad thru this process.
Might want to also check for a loose or cracked hose on the passenger side that you might of moved to get at the plugs on that side.
As for washing the engine it should be no problem if you have the dielectric grease on the boots and regular washing will not hurt it in any way. I do wash mine out a few times a year with no issues. This is only an issue that is seen on the trucks that seem to get purchased used with unknown maint on them. But always scarry when it happens.
Thanks for the info. I'll reset the computer when I get the truck back, it's in getting brakes & shocks.
So I've got and update....Cleaned the MAF, PCV and added some stabilizer to the fuel. It fired right up and ran real smooth! I took it for a good 40 minute ride both highway and backroads and still ran good!!!Knocking on wood.....I brought to my buddys place to take care of brakes, heat shield rattle, steering stabilizer and whatever else it my need, so I should have it back tomorrow.
Question - Should I clean the TB if it's still running good or leave well enough alone? If I should clean it, is there a specific way to do this....truck running or not, spray alot of carb cleaner or a little....looking for tips - did a search but didn't find much.
After you take off the air intake have a look in there. Even flip open the butterfly and look inside and if dirty there are only a few screws holding it down. It will be way easier to clean the back side of it while off. I know after I cleaned mine it seemed to have a better throttle response.