Here is my compression test.number was wondering what some of you might think. Reason i have even started this is because, I have some serious loss of oil and also coolant. but more oil than coolant down 1.5 quarts in about 200 miles. radiator down about a gallon in 2 weeks 400 miles about. milky oil fill cap and breather hose to air cleaner.

compression test reads front of engine back.

dry 120-145-153-150-160 150
wet 130-150-160-150-165-160

NOTE i forgot to prop open throttle so i think they may be a bit low
I will re check with throttle open and repost some numbers.
but what is crossing my mind is the head is warped with the numbers going up from front to back. but then again there kinda in rage other than # 1 what do you guys think.

 

new numbers throttle propped open

dry 135-160-165-155-170-155
wet 135-165-165-160-175-160

i think i like these numbers better the lowest is within the 75% margin it should be but i wish #1 was a bit higher. with dry to wet though it seams like the rings are good i would guess any way. just looking for other opinions thanks.

 

You're cranking each cylinder the same number of strokes?

That 135 reading is right on the edge of Ford's spec and I'm guessing that they allowed 25% to keep from doing warranty repairs. < 15% is a rule of thumb. If it were me I'd pay for a leakdown test - or rent the equipment - to find out where #1 is losing pressure. Especially since it's drinking all that coolant.

 

well i was planing on taking the head off to day. i was planing on doing a leak down test but cant find a tester any where at all. maybe ill just go grab an old regulator and atleast put air in there to see where it is going.

 

I would pressure test the radiator and coolant system, you might be able to get the radiator tester on loan from the auto parts store.

Leak down compression testers are used on airplane engines and are rare in the automotive world. It is a lot easier to do on an airplane engine as you can hold on to the prop for leverage. I did a leak down test on my truck and it was a real pain…. There aren’t any marks for 120 deg and 240 deg so you have to guess at TDC. Just be real careful if you try this and use a long breaker bar for leverage when trying to hold the crank still.
I used 80 PSI on the input and most of my numbers were low… sometime it is better to just think you have good compression than to find out you don’t.

Jim

 

There you go. You can hear how loud #1 hisses compared to the other cylinders and, like you said, where it hisses from. If you want actual percentages Harbor Freight has a leak down tester on sale for $35 or you can make your own:

DIY Leak-Down Testing - Wrenchin' - Honda Tuning Magazine

 

i made my own today. did the test cant really tell any thing from it. i pulled the head ill post some pics of what i have found.

 

this is what i have found. Cylinder #2 has a lot more build up on the piston than all the other. Both #1 and #2 have allot of build up on the head. #1 has more build up on the head than #2. Cylinder #1 is more worn on the wall than all the others. I can get a new head for a good price should i just change it out along with all new gaskets. and plan for a rebuild further down the road. This truck has never really smoked. only out the oil fill cap. It never smoked out the exhaust. Nor did it ever smell like burning oil. Has no leaks and the oil isn't in the coolant. i just don't under stand how it could go through so much oil and not show any of these signs. I would rebuild it know but its a mater of money and time. I need this thing on the road asap.And with the holiday coming i can't really aford a rebuild right now. I have found signs of coolant in the oil so i think a new head and gaskets should solve my main problem. I don't think it would go through this much oil just because #1 has a litle more wear than the others seams like there all sealing pretty good after doing a dry and wet test. any advice would be greatly appreciated. I will try to get my pics up as soon as possible.

 

That's a lot of oil and coolant. No cracks between the valves? Head gasket look OK?

 

the gasket did look ok there was one part that i think got messed up when i pulled the head but im not sure. and i couldn't see any cracks but i think im better off getting a new head any way. I would like to rebuild this truck any way just wasn't planing on having to so soon and before the holidays. Personally I think what i am going to do is get the new head because I can get it a a good price. Change all the gaskets and see what that does. I was planing on going through the hole truck some time after the holidays to make sure it is nice and reliable while i rebuild my other truck. When it came time to go through it i was going to either rebuild the head or get a new one. so i don't really think it is a waist getting a new head right now. Then when i do a rebuild down the road i don't have to worry about the top end. Im just starting to get overwhelmed a bit only because i have never had to figure out what i need for a build. such as size and what kits to order. I have put it all together before but just have never had to do all the real thinking before. I actually feel kinda dumb for once when it comes to cars and trucks. I also think im just getting stressed out over the holidays coming up and money being tight this time of year. And am just not thinking clearly.

 

How did this all turn out?