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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Fuel tanks question

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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 11:46 PM
  #1  
abranz's Avatar
abranz
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From: Osburn, ID
Fuel tanks question

On my 92 F150 I've got two tanks and a few problems I'm not sure how to approach. The front-side tank pump doesn't seem to be working and the fuel gauge is reading E when switched to it even though gas is in the tank. I've been using the rear tank but now it has sprung a leak so I'm in a fix. Do I replace the side-front tank pump? Does the pump have the sending unit with it? I'm confused because I've been reading about pollack switching valves, in-line fuel pumps, etc all of which I cannot find on my truck. Thanks Tony
 
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 09:20 AM
  #2  
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Conanski
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Your truck has in-tank fuel sending units only, no switching valve or external pumps on the frame at all.. that ended in 1989. The fuel sending units contain check valves to prevent one tank filling another, and the fuel level sender(float) is mounted on the outside of the assembly.


 
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #3  
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abranz
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Thanks for the help. I will remove the front tank and replace the module. I'm hoping to repair the rear tank leak but likely will have to replace it.
Tony
 
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 05:29 PM
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Patman-TX
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I have had the front tank out 3 times in the pst 6 months (first cheap and then OEM FDM) and the rear tank twice (replace with OEM FDM and then replace the outside filler hose that had split) so I've got some recent experience that may help.

Disconnect the battery.

Try and make sure you have as much fuel out of the tank you are working on as possible. It will make it MUCH easier to deal with.

An impact gun is you friend when dealing with the nuts holding the straps up.

Don't forget to loosen the clamp holding the outside filler hose to the tank before you start to drop it. The inner hose is plastic and doesn't like to bend so if the is an invisible hand making the tank move as you lower it that's it.

Make sure you have the proper tools on hand when you start. The only odd ball ting you might need is 3/8" disconnect tool if you truck has the external check valve installed.

Pick up a couple extra clips for the stock Ford slip on connections, chances are you'll break at least one of them because they get brittle.

There is enough fuel line free to allow the tank to be dropped to the ground, just take it slow.

A brass drift will be handy for knocking the retaining ring loose, make sure you are not pounding on steel with a steel tool! I actually used the brass drift and a plastic hammer.

Pay attention to how the FDM comes out it's a tricky one to get back in if you don't pay attention and it only goes one way. You don't want to mangle the sending unit are in the process of getting in a hurry or mad.

Make sure the little "tar strips" end up between the straps and the tank so you don't end up wearing a hole in the tank.

If you smoke (I don't) take your break far away!

If you have a hitch it has to come off to drop the back tank. It looks like it will ALMOST work but t doesn't.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 08:51 PM
  #5  
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gr8whitebronco
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OR---6 bolts,6 screws,2 hose clamps,2 plugs and 3 strong friends and take the bed off??????

Sometimes alot easier in my opinion. Gives easy access to tanks, plugs and lines....
 
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