Engine swapping
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
Engine swapping
Its close to time to swap out my powertrain and I want to make sure I know what I'm in for.
I'm on my way to making my truck a lot more daily drivable friendly. She drives... and she gets about 5 mpg with the original 272 in it. And I'm not going to lie, the old transmission style of driving is killing me, probably because I suck at it (nothing like by the time you get it into gear having to downshift because you're going so slow again).
I've figured if I'm going to get horrible gas mileage I can at least get it with some power and ease-ability of driving. So I've been looking for a new power source.
I had thought of putting a 351w in, but there might be a 390 in town that will work. I'm pretty sure on everything involved on swapping out parts, but I figured I would post a topic on it in case there is something critical I've forgotten.
So what all is involved in swapping out the powertrain? What do I need to replace besides the engine and transmission I'm putting in? Brackets? Support? Fuel sender? Anything tiny often over looked thats going to give me grief?
Thanks
I'm on my way to making my truck a lot more daily drivable friendly. She drives... and she gets about 5 mpg with the original 272 in it. And I'm not going to lie, the old transmission style of driving is killing me, probably because I suck at it (nothing like by the time you get it into gear having to downshift because you're going so slow again).
I've figured if I'm going to get horrible gas mileage I can at least get it with some power and ease-ability of driving. So I've been looking for a new power source.
I had thought of putting a 351w in, but there might be a 390 in town that will work. I'm pretty sure on everything involved on swapping out parts, but I figured I would post a topic on it in case there is something critical I've forgotten.
So what all is involved in swapping out the powertrain? What do I need to replace besides the engine and transmission I'm putting in? Brackets? Support? Fuel sender? Anything tiny often over looked thats going to give me grief?
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
First take pictures of the engine bay from all angles - measure everything three times and put the measurements on the pictures.
The easiest way of working on the actual swapout is with the front sheet metal off.
Take off all the smog crap from the newer engines (keep the crankcase ventilation piece).
Try to get an engine/transmission as one piece, that way you don't have to mix and match.
The easiest way of working on the actual swapout is with the front sheet metal off.
Take off all the smog crap from the newer engines (keep the crankcase ventilation piece).
Try to get an engine/transmission as one piece, that way you don't have to mix and match.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,289
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
First thing first unless you plan to completely rebuild it make sure you thoroughly check over the engine and transmission before you buy them. If possible hear it run and check the oil pressure & compression. I also prefer to get a complete engine and transmission. Get one with a complete accessory drive. That's why I usually pick up a complete driveable vehicle.
I think the best way to do the swap is to get the engine & transmission swap crossmembers. I like the ones made by Trans-Dapt.
Once you do the swap you'll have to deal with all the misc stuff like: wiring, exhaust, throttle linkage/cable, radiator & hoses, fuel line. Depending on what type of transmission you'll have to deal with clutch linkage for a manual transmission. Or for an automatic you'll have to deal with shift linkage, cooler lines, kick down/TV linkage or cable, park/neutral safety switch wiring, vacuum modulator hose/line. You'll also have to deal with the driveshaft & speedometer cable.
Unless you are changing gauges or fuel tanks you won't need to do anything with the fuel sending unit.
I think the best way to do the swap is to get the engine & transmission swap crossmembers. I like the ones made by Trans-Dapt.
Once you do the swap you'll have to deal with all the misc stuff like: wiring, exhaust, throttle linkage/cable, radiator & hoses, fuel line. Depending on what type of transmission you'll have to deal with clutch linkage for a manual transmission. Or for an automatic you'll have to deal with shift linkage, cooler lines, kick down/TV linkage or cable, park/neutral safety switch wiring, vacuum modulator hose/line. You'll also have to deal with the driveshaft & speedometer cable.
Unless you are changing gauges or fuel tanks you won't need to do anything with the fuel sending unit.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
Likes: 1,051
From: NM
How can you resist doing a new oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, front and rear seals while the engine is hanging on the hook?? It's S-O-O-O easy compared to when they are in the truck. And once the pan is off, would you really not pop a con rod cap off to look at the bearing? Maybe a new oil pump? It's a slippery slope but how can you resist??
I would resist the 390 option, and stick with more modern engines like a 351W. Depends a lot on gearing but a newer 351 will have been built with consideration for economy, while a 390 or other old engine will not. EFI would be great if you really want a daily driver, and plan to keep it. Why don't you just sell it to me and buy a new Ranger, I hear they get 27 on the hwy?!
I would resist the 390 option, and stick with more modern engines like a 351W. Depends a lot on gearing but a newer 351 will have been built with consideration for economy, while a 390 or other old engine will not. EFI would be great if you really want a daily driver, and plan to keep it. Why don't you just sell it to me and buy a new Ranger, I hear they get 27 on the hwy?!
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,289
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
How can you resist doing a new oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, front and rear seals while the engine is hanging on the hook?? It's S-O-O-O easy compared to when they are in the truck. And once the pan is off, would you really not pop a con rod cap off to look at the bearing? Maybe a new oil pump? It's a slippery slope but how can you resist??
I would resist the 390 option, and stick with more modern engines like a 351W. Depends a lot on gearing but a newer 351 will have been built with consideration for economy, while a 390 or other old engine will not. EFI would be great if you really want a daily driver, and plan to keep it. Why don't you just sell it to me and buy a new Ranger, I hear they get 27 on the hwy?!
I would resist the 390 option, and stick with more modern engines like a 351W. Depends a lot on gearing but a newer 351 will have been built with consideration for economy, while a 390 or other old engine will not. EFI would be great if you really want a daily driver, and plan to keep it. Why don't you just sell it to me and buy a new Ranger, I hear they get 27 on the hwy?!
I agree. If I have an engine out of a vehicle I throw in every gasket and seal I can without completely tearing down the engine.
But the 390 will also make more torque then the 351W. And if you want to get any kind of decent mileage with that F600 you'll probably need two OD gears.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
Do a google search for "word cloud", it is an application that will search a document and take all the words and rank them by use - the more the words are used the darker the print appears and the closer to the center of the group (cloud) they get.
Next take all the suggestions that you get here - cut and paste them into a document format and run the word cloud app. - It will show you what we as a bunch of misfits think you should do first/or that is most important.
Next take all the suggestions that you get here - cut and paste them into a document format and run the word cloud app. - It will show you what we as a bunch of misfits think you should do first/or that is most important.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
Bump to keep you on top, and I am very interested in the response as I am considering an engine replacement as well.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, Ca
My swap
I'm replacing my 272/cruiseomatic with a 302/c4. I first wanted a big block, but decided there was too much modification (for the $$ I want to put in my truck) so decided to make it easy on myself with the 302. The fit should be easy, it's economical, no special headers/mods to the frame/Etc. I WOULD HAVE LOVED THE BB, but $$$ made me go for SB.
I purchased both as a unit and am currently in the process of taking the engine down to shortblock
for inspection, cleaning,
painting and new gaskets,
timing chain set, all tune up stuff,
electronic module in the dist, new coil,
expansion plug set, intake bolt set,
waterpump/bolt set, thermostat housing,
valve covers, thermostat,
(maybe alternator, need to check it), belts.
I'll do things to the trans (undefined at this time) once I'm done with the engine.
Scraping grease from truck while working on engine too
Have fun!
I purchased both as a unit and am currently in the process of taking the engine down to shortblock
for inspection, cleaning,
painting and new gaskets,
timing chain set, all tune up stuff,
electronic module in the dist, new coil,
expansion plug set, intake bolt set,
waterpump/bolt set, thermostat housing,
valve covers, thermostat,
(maybe alternator, need to check it), belts.
I'll do things to the trans (undefined at this time) once I'm done with the engine.
Scraping grease from truck while working on engine too
Have fun!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 0
From: Westminster,Md
If you decide to find a donor and maybe used...be sure the donor runs well, dosen't smoke on decell and shifts well (auto).. some times you get lucky and find a donor with a new engine(10k)..I'm thinking the steering column clearence might be the biggest issue, don't be afraid to offset the engine to the pass side an inch or so..keep the donor if you can until you have "everything" you may need, booster/master,swx's,any ign parts,start relays etc,etc,..
More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 661
Likes: 6
From: parma
You mentioned having trouble shifting, is your tranny a non-snchro? Do you do a lot of city driving, or some highway? Those factors should also play in to what your going to do.
As for me, I'm still working on putting in a different motor in my f350. It has a 292 and I want to pull my camper with it. But I wanted to stay with the vintage style of the truck. I've been working at this since summer, and have finally got some pieces together with some answers. a 332 truck motor is the same block as a 368 lincoln. I have a friend who has the lincoln motor, and its already apart. I just bought a running 332 last week. We seperated the tranny off the 332, and found the flywheel will bolt up to the lincoln crank. The hole in the back of the crank for the automatic is the same size dia. as the pilot bearing hole on the 332. This is a roller bearing pilot. So now I'm looking at the cost to rebuild the 368 and put it in my truck.
So you have lots of options as to what your doing. Actually, its whatever makes sense to you.
As for me, I'm still working on putting in a different motor in my f350. It has a 292 and I want to pull my camper with it. But I wanted to stay with the vintage style of the truck. I've been working at this since summer, and have finally got some pieces together with some answers. a 332 truck motor is the same block as a 368 lincoln. I have a friend who has the lincoln motor, and its already apart. I just bought a running 332 last week. We seperated the tranny off the 332, and found the flywheel will bolt up to the lincoln crank. The hole in the back of the crank for the automatic is the same size dia. as the pilot bearing hole on the 332. This is a roller bearing pilot. So now I'm looking at the cost to rebuild the 368 and put it in my truck.
So you have lots of options as to what your doing. Actually, its whatever makes sense to you.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
I dunno, I just have a very hard time actually getting it into gear. I tend to grind even when I double clutch and the engine seems to need to slow down to a certain point before it will take the gear. The problem is by the time the engine has slowed down enough, so has the truck, and I need to downshift. I'm sure a more experienced driver with it would do better, and I probably would fair a lot better with more experience. The low gas mileage isn't helping me not want to swap it out though, lol.
I might end up with a diesel in it in it the end. I want to keep the vintage feel but I need a daily truck thats reliable more than anything. And changing things under the hood doesn't change the feel to me, unless it's a show truck.
I might end up with a diesel in it in it the end. I want to keep the vintage feel but I need a daily truck thats reliable more than anything. And changing things under the hood doesn't change the feel to me, unless it's a show truck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,289
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
A Ford/IH 6.9L or 7.3L IDI wouldn't be a bad choice if you are considering a diesel. They don't have all the computer controlled crap the newer diesels have so it makes swapping them into something much easier.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 487
Likes: 3
From: Lampasas,TX
I recently bought an 89 F-Super Duty (F-450) with the 7.3 IDI and 5 speed OD trans that I am going to transplant into my 58 F600. The trans has a hydraulic clutch and a aft mounted drum brake for the parking brake just like the original. The engine is very simple- no computer or turbo.
