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"Re-boot" the computer ?

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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 08:25 AM
  #1  
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"Re-boot" the computer ?

'05, 6.0 PSD, EB edition. Yesterday PM it was 26*F when I went out and started it up to leave work. I let it run for about 5 minutes, then proceeded to drive home. About 3 miles down the road, I let off the accellerator to coast down to a red traffic light. When the light turned green, I pushed down on the accellerator pedal and NOTHING.... it just proceeded forward ever so slow at an idle. I idled it through the intersection and up into the corner gas station...all at an idle. I parked out of the line of traffic and continued to let it idle for another ten minutes....thinking it just may need to warm up more. Well, after 10 more minutes there was no change with the accellerator pedal.

I turned the engine off and waited for about a minute, then re-started the engine... it now accellerated with the pedal working as it should. I proceeded to drive it home and back to work today and it seems to be working fine again.

Is there pedal linkage that needs some lubrication or is the accellerator 'signal' sent all electronically?

It acted like it just needed it's computer 're-booted', but I don't know why it did... just like this box on my desk needs it from time to time...

Any and all ideas / suggestions are welcome, Guys!

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 12:25 PM
  #2  
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There is no linkage. There are sensors on the pedal that tell the computer how far you pressed the pedal.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
There is no linkage. There are sensors on the pedal that tell the computer how far you pressed the pedal.
Thanks, Mark. That is what I suspected, but didn't know for sure.

So, I guess it was the elusive electrical gremlins/static or such giving my pedal sensors fits.....I hope they had their fill of fun and stay away now. BarnieTrk
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BarnieTrk
I proceeded to drive it home and back to work today and it seems to be working fine again.
Well, it did it again on the way home tonight.

Mark (or anyone),
Is there a way to clean, adjust, tune, etc. the applicable accelerator sensors?

Are they expensive and/or difficult to replace?

Thanks in advance for help, Guys!

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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A fixed pedal is about 90 bucks,you could try cleaning the connector and contacts with electrical cleaner.
 

Last edited by brickie; Dec 3, 2010 at 09:07 PM. Reason: add
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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Three bolts very easy in and out.Site wouldn't let me add to that post for some reason.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 04:40 AM
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Thanks, Brickie! I'll try cleaning the contacts and see if it makes a difference or not.... Wish me luck!
-- BarnieTrk
 
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by brickie
A fixed pedal is about 90 bucks,you could try cleaning the connector and contacts with electrical cleaner.
An update Fellas:

As I indicated earlier, this Excursion was issued to me by the company I work for. So, they have the final word in what types of service, parts and maintenance it gets beyond routine fluids & filters - as they should. I discussed the 'intermittent dead accelerator' condition with my truck manager and he simply told me NOT to mess with it and just take it in to the Ford garage. So I did just that.

Well, the stealership told me that since the truck is outfitted with the 'power pedals' that to replace the accelerator assembly would run close to $750 just for the parts/assembly! They checked the FICM and it checked out fine. For the week before I took it into the stealership and for the week since then it hasn't fouled up once.

Although I'm not real keen on the posibility of the accelerator pedal dying again while in the process of making a left hand turn, which could result in some day-dreaming yoyo driving in the on-coming traffic - not noticing me SLOWLY IDLING out of the intersection - skidding & smashing into the very broadside of the truck, I'm also not too sure I want the stealership to just start changing $750 parts with the hopes it quits acting up! The stealership rep told me that they will usually re-set itself if I turn the key off and re-start it. That's fine as long as I'm not caught in the middle of some busy intersection or freeway lane-change when it decides to quit again....

Nevertheless, for the time being, I guess I'm just going to drive it - I don't really like the idea that it may quit working completely & permanently when I'm in Tim-Buck-Two or BFE and then I'd need a tow truck to bring it back to civilization, but mostly, I REALLY don't want it to be the causitive malfunction to put the truck into an accident someday. At the same time, I know there isn't much that can be repaired in the way of accident damages for $750 if it is indeed involved in an accident......

So what would you guys recommend - Do I just drive it or do I insist to my Truck Manager that the stealership change the $750 pedal assembly?

Meanwhile, I wish everyone a Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year!
BarnieTrk
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #9  
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Hey Fellas,
Just a quick update on my accelerator pedal malfunction issues: It's been about a month now since the dealer looked at it and the pedal hasn't messed up once since then. I don't know if the dealer wiggled a loose wire or what but it hasn't given me any problems since....

Have a good day, Guys!
BarnieTrk
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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All electronic because we had so many problems with the expensive cables over the last 100 years.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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Thank goodness it wasn't stuck in the full throttle position like some of the Toyotas. These beasts would be hard to stop with the torque the engine puts out.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818
Thank goodness it wasn't stuck in the full throttle position like some of the Toyotas. These beasts would be hard to stop with the torque the engine puts out.
WOWZER!! I NEVER THOUGHT ABOUT THAT!

Yep, that would be an eye opener, I'm sure!

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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I've always had doubts about the drive by wire idea. What if the motor on the throttle body end fails or sticks due to carbon build up? Motors do wear out over time.

My Sienna is a drive by wire and I notice a slight delay in acceleration when I step on the pedal. My other vehicles are cable and it is a lot more responsive.

If the cable rusting or snapping is a concern, then they should design it using hydraulic like we have on brakes.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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Cables have been just fine for 100's of thousands of miles for 100 years. Cheap reliable does its job. Drive by wire is nothing but more potential problems and is a way more expensive deal that does a $5 cables job.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 08:59 AM
  #15  
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Fellas,
A followup on this issue -- All was well for about 6 months - until June, then the acellerator started to act up as it did last January. This time I got about 3 miles down the road and the acellerator became un-responsive again,,,,coasting me to a halt in the center (left turn lane), only this time it would not restart -- it would spin over fast, but no fire. I called a friend and he came with his F250 and a strap and we drug it over to a friend's repair shop; luckily only about 2 miles away. He thought it might have a blown out oil pump.

The next morning he went out and it started right up and it had oil pressure! So, we agreed that it dying like it did was maybe caused by the acellerator (as it was suspected 6 months ago) so he drove it to the nearby Stealership to get it put on their scope. It died again on the way over to the FoMoCo garage but it did re-start and he did get it there.

Ford determined the IDS data logger said it was coding P0611. They hooked up the Ohm meter to EOT, check voltage to FICM,,,dropping to 29 volts. They replaced the FICM (part # 4C3Z12B599ABRM). All was well....until 12 days later, when it died again on me on the road again. It did restart, and I took it directly back to the Stealership.

They then checked the history on the data logger which said to check the ICP pressure and voltage ICP out of range. They replaced the ICP sensor assembly (part# 4C3Z9F838A).

It's been a month now and it's not missed a beat.... It's coming up on 128K miles now.......

BarnieTrk
 
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