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What is the best setup to get the most performance out of your a/c system. Mine is retrofitted to R134A with a variable orifice tube. Whole system except condenser was replaced last year. Should I replace condenser? I think I need a fan clutch (even though mine is only a coupla years old and was a MotorCraft) - truck gets really warm after sitting 10-15 mins at idle with A/C running.
Was the condenser flushed? Was it evacuated thoroughly? Were all the O-rings and the dessicant rated for R-134a? Was it charged with low-viscosity (42) PAG oil? All other vehicles use heavier (80-150) oil.
The replacement was done by a Ford dealership, so I'm assuming that those things were done. The bag inside the dryer broke apart causing the compressor to go out, so that's why I'm thinking they had to have flushed it out. Could the condenser still have some restriction?
It would be very unusual to have a restriction in the condensor. The only way that could happen is if some of the tubes got bent or dented. The refrigerant that circulates through the system is one of the best cleansing agents known. The only reason to replace it would be if the cooling fins were damaged bad or you had leaks in it. If it gets warm at idle, you have to remember that you are not moving much refrigerant through the system with the engine at idle because the compressor is not turning very fast. This would also happen if you are a bit low on refrigerant.
Warm as in the temperature gauge on the dash shows the water in the radiator to be getting hot, in turn causing the A/c to blow wamer. As long as the condenser is kept cool it blows cool air regardless of engine speed.
Give your radiator and condenser a good wash job. Dust and debris picked up on the road will restrict the airflow and cause you to run a bit warmer. A higher coolant temperature is not unusual when running your air conditioner because the air entering your radiator is much warmer after it passes through the condenser.
I've done that already (last summer, when I was using the A/C a lot and was experiencing the problem). The radiator was replaced then as well (it had a hole in it) and I straightened and cleaned the fins on the condenser and then washed it out with high pressure soap and water and then rinse a few times to get it good and clean.
I think you're right about the dessicant bag breaking - I bet they didn't backflush the condenser and get all the pellets out. To find out for sure, you'll need an infrared thermometer (the one that looks like a little gun) to shoot the tubes and find out if any of them AREN'T as hot as the others. Another way to do it is to douse the condenser with water, then crank the engine, turn on the A/C, and see if some areas dry out significantly faster than others.
A restricted tube (not flowing as much compressed/hot refrigerant) will be cooler and stay wet longer, but the nature of the condenser may make it hard to distinguish a cool tube between 2 hot ones. (I doubt the restrictions are that localized, though - you'll probably see the bottom cool and the top few hot.)
Yet another way to diagnose it is by pressure, but you'd have to have a pierce port installed on the low (Right) side of the condenser so you could make sure the pressure is almost the same from one side to the other. If there's a restriction, there'll be a difference.
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