No, the OP is still only used for the gauge on your '98. However, the resistor setup is not the same on your '98 as it is on your older trucks.

 

OK, so it is not behind the gauge like on my '90 and '91? Where is it and how do I jump it?

 

I didn't have a resistor on my 99 3.0L FFV when I converted it.

 

That 99 shop manual doesn't show the 20 ohm resistor. I wonder if it is in the sender. The 94 does show it.

 

No, the sender is only a switch. I think the gauge impedance was changed so the resistor isn't needed.

 

Bob, do you recall the P/N & mfgr of the op sending unit you successfully used on your 99 3.0L????

 

If they have built it in the gauge then I don't see how you can have a successful conversion. If you add more resistance then the gauge will just read lower.I have got to do more reading to understand this configuration

 

I got my analog sending unit from NAPA. It's been awhile, but I believe I bought it for an 87 Ranger. Yes, you are correct, with the analog sending unit, they highest the gauge will read is just under half-scale, and it drops
slightly when the engine is hot.

 

If you can find the two traces on either side of the resistor, you can just solder a jumper parallel to the resistor. You really don't have to take the resistor out, (especially if you can't get to it...). If you add resistors in parallel, it will decrease the resistance, so adding another resistor will make the needle go higher. You can play around with different values to get the needle right where you want it, but the cheap electrical gauges fluxuate so much, it's hardly worth it.

Which leads to the story I alway heard about why Ford went to the idiot light gauge. Because the cheap electrical gauges fluxuate so much, people with new Fords were bringing their cars/trucks in for warranty every time the gauge would change from "normal". The techs could find nothing wrong and were eating shop time. Instead of Ford installing expensive accurate gauges, resistors cost less than a penny and no more warrenty problems.... If a customers gauge showed 0, they really had a problem.

 

Howdy that is exactly how I have converted these before is to
solder a jumper across the the resistor using the existing solder at either end. I heat these just enough to get the solder to puddle and accept the jumper which I have already tinned. And yes the newer gauges move extremely quick mine takes about 1/2 second to move to half gauge after a startup even cold. I know that 5w-20 is close to water consistancey but this is rediculous.

 

Hi I have a 1990 Ranger 2.3 and when you give it gas the gauge drops off to nothing and yes its full of oil.

 

I have been experiencing a no oil pressure indication in my 2000 3.0L Ranger.
I was unaware of the pressure switch Ford used until a did a google search.
How many have tried the Rogue Performance trick and how successful has the replacement been?
Carl

 

on my 99 ranger 3.0 FFV it takes about 5-6 minutes before my oil pressure gauge moves then jumps up to the middle setting, flickers back and forth a few times and then stays in the middle... could this be the sending unit or the gauge acting up?

 

Sending unit

 

ford_racing_4_life, kinda sounds like the sending unit, they are a common problem.

Before relacing it, check it's wires electrical connection, (should be clean & tight) & case continuity to ground, on the off chance there may be a poor connection through the sending units threads to the engine block.

Let us know how it goes.