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I looked at those when I was planning my build. I came to the conclusion that by time I bought those and then modified them where it was set the cab high enough to roll the cherry picker out and have the stability I wanted, it was easier and cheaper to go the route I did.
I not using them to move a cab or body, I place one each under the wheels of my chassis so I could move it around easier in the shop. They worked great, I can move the chassis by myself anywhere I want it. I doubt they would carry a complete vehicle once the full body is mounted but they're relatively cheap.
ya bob they will i have my truck sitting on those right now with the truck all together it doesn't roll easy though. i use conduit reels to build all sorts of stuff the ug contractor i do some work for begs me to tear them apart lots of good steel in them.
Here is another path to take for a cab cart ...... the front end of an F6 frame ... which are numerous and often useless since the double walls of the rear rails rust so badly they are junk. Cut those off and add some wheels and you have a cab cart. Nice thing about it is that it is sturdy enough to keep the cab in very good alignment when fitting doors and doing body repairs.
Keep in mind that the F4, F5, & F6 frames from 48 thru 52 will have the right mounts to easily attach any F1 thru F6 cab, and they will have a different rear crossmember that provides the necessary very beefy piece to make the cab cart work best. The lighter trucks have a different crossmember setup, and don't work as well, unless of course you add some bracing.