E4OD Reverse Slippage
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 506
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E4OD Reverse Slippage
For a 236K mile F350 4x4 thats been towing hard, and ruffed around in the mud, it doesnt supprise me...at least that what I learned when I bought it a few months back.
I noticed the tranny slips hard in reverse on inclines. You have to barely feather it and play with the throttle. First time I thought I was slipping a tire, but thats not the case. Its to the point where I could back into a driveway that was less than a 10deg angle...If you get frustrated (like I do) and give it some hard throttle blips it will something grab, and you can smell clutch. 1st 2nd 3rd and overdrive all seem fine. Runs pretty strong.
So Ive tried all the basic stuff, flushed all fluid, including the torque converter. Put in 2 bottles of Lucas Transmission fix. It made the 1st 2nd and 3rd seem stronger and reverse slips "less" But still an issue.
Anything I can do to save it? or time for an overhaul?
I noticed the tranny slips hard in reverse on inclines. You have to barely feather it and play with the throttle. First time I thought I was slipping a tire, but thats not the case. Its to the point where I could back into a driveway that was less than a 10deg angle...If you get frustrated (like I do) and give it some hard throttle blips it will something grab, and you can smell clutch. 1st 2nd 3rd and overdrive all seem fine. Runs pretty strong.
So Ive tried all the basic stuff, flushed all fluid, including the torque converter. Put in 2 bottles of Lucas Transmission fix. It made the 1st 2nd and 3rd seem stronger and reverse slips "less" But still an issue.
Anything I can do to save it? or time for an overhaul?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 12
From: Sand Lake, MI
List here omitting what you've done, or doesn't apply.
Inspect manual linkage, adjust as required.
Check line pressure.
Inspect valve body and pump control body bolts, Loose or tight.
Inspect pump control body and valve body, dirty or sticky valves.
Inspect direct clutch accumulator regulator valve, valve stuck nicked/damaged spring missing or tangled.
BS5 check ball missing, plate seal damaged.
Inspect coast clutch assembly for leakage.
Inspect reverse clutch, burnt or missing clutch plates, damaged piston or seals.
Inspect manual linkage, adjust as required.
Check line pressure.
Inspect valve body and pump control body bolts, Loose or tight.
Inspect pump control body and valve body, dirty or sticky valves.
Inspect direct clutch accumulator regulator valve, valve stuck nicked/damaged spring missing or tangled.
BS5 check ball missing, plate seal damaged.
Inspect coast clutch assembly for leakage.
Inspect reverse clutch, burnt or missing clutch plates, damaged piston or seals.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
very nice post danr. i had this problem in my mustang. took the valve body off and cleaned it up, put in a shift kit (cause it was all out) and she works perfectly now.
check all the items on that list, and that should cover it.
check all the items on that list, and that should cover it.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 506
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Cool thanks guys. I figured with the clutch smell the clutches we're just toast....I wish I would have known to check these when I had the pan off two weeks ago. The 4 gallons of fluid is expensive. Would it be a bad idea to unhook a cooler line, run the engine to use the pump to pump the fluid out to salvage it? You obviously want to shut ot off as soon as the fluid is almost out.
Also I might need help identifying the parts...I know the valve body assembly thats about it. Trannys are not my thing.
Also I might need help identifying the parts...I know the valve body assembly thats about it. Trannys are not my thing.
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