I know this is ford trucks but my other ford in the drive way needs some love too. Been dealing with leaking coolant for a couple months, first upper hose, then lower, then it was the oring in the water pump that connects to the extension tube, now it the heater hose coming out of the driver side manifold (right next to the thermostat housing) that goes to a tee fitting, which branches off to the auxiliary heater and to the heater core. The hose corroded at the quick disconnect fitting at the intake manifold. They sale these quick disconnect fitting More Information for DORMAN 47164, but it looks like there made for a hose and clamp setup, Looking through rockauto.com parts list they have numerous molded heater hoses but they are labeled like tee-2 to pipe-4, or heater to tee-1, etc(Just go to RockAuto Auto Parts search for 1996 ford windstar 3.8L Heater hose to see how they are labeled. Its like there is some picture that has the parts labeled but i haven't found one. With my particular hose that broke it leads to a tee and it looks like its crimped on so am I gonna have to replace all the heater hoses through out or am i over thinking it? I hope someone here has some experience with either the windstar or even the heater hose system that ford uses as I believe that this same system is used on our trucks as well! Any help will be much grateful.

A pic of the connector Webshots - Full Size Photo , (its the connector just below the Engine coolent sensor and just above the upper rad hose the Engine coolent sensor . I know more pics would be nice but camera is broke so hopefully someone will know what I talking about and be able to help, thanks in advance!!

 

I have a 99 windstar that has had the same push type connector at the intake fitting that's in the attached picture in this thread. My connector has failed twice in 3 1/2 years. According to the local dealer this is an old design. Today the parts display for the heater hoses now shows only the nipple and standard hose clamp at the intake manifold end, not plastic connector. The Ford part guy showed me a kit with 2 sets of replacement dual O rings, washer and locking clip available for $31. This connector is supposed to release by pressing the tabs end of the connector and pulling it off the intake tube/stub. If my tube/stub turns out to be corroded again I will probably replace the current tube/stub with a type that will allow me to connect the hose with a standard clamp. That will involve removing the crimp band and the plastic coupler. If am careful, I should be able to cut the crimp ring with cutting wheel on a dremel type tool without damaging the hose. The first repair cost me $650 and change. Not again!!