2005 Mariner idle
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From: Austin
2005 Mariner idle
OK, I've done a forum search and didn't find exactly what I needed to know, so:
2005 Mariner, V6, 76K miles has a slightly rough idle at cold start. I have done nothing to this little SUV beyond normal oil/filter and air filter changes since new. Normally it is started in a garage, which means 60 degrees or more here in TX, but Sat AM when it was in the low 40's, it was outdoors and it was noticeably worse.
After warm-up, idle is fine, and the CEL is not lit.
What's the first thing I need to look at? MAF cleaning? IAC replacement?
Thanks,
Neal
2005 Mariner, V6, 76K miles has a slightly rough idle at cold start. I have done nothing to this little SUV beyond normal oil/filter and air filter changes since new. Normally it is started in a garage, which means 60 degrees or more here in TX, but Sat AM when it was in the low 40's, it was outdoors and it was noticeably worse.
After warm-up, idle is fine, and the CEL is not lit.
What's the first thing I need to look at? MAF cleaning? IAC replacement?
Thanks,
Neal
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From: Austin
Neal
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If it's only doing it at cold start up and runs fine after it warms up, it's probably has Tonyford stated, the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve). AutoZone, O'Reilly sells it for between $44-47 bucks. Super easy to replace, right on top of the engine. Two bolts on the top of the engine, #8 metric (I believe) and a simple connector, about 5 minutes to replace, really! You could just get one from either store, put it on try it the next cold start, you'll know right away if it was the right part or not. If your still having problems, then put the old part back on and return the new part. Pretty common problem, about at the miles you have.
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From: Austin
If it's only doing it at cold start up and runs fine after it warms up, it's probably has Tonyford stated, the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve). AutoZone, O'Reilly sells it for between $44-47 bucks. Super easy to replace, right on top of the engine. Two bolts on the top of the engine, #8 metric (I believe) and a simple connector, about 5 minutes to replace, really! You could just get one from either store, put it on try it the next cold start, you'll know right away if it was the right part or not. If your still having problems, then put the old part back on and return the new part. Pretty common problem, about at the miles you have.
. I'll give AZ and O'R a try.Neal
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Sundvl76,
I'm in the DFW area, so unless your down south. like Houston I'm guessing your right around here. Should be cold the next few mornings. So if you get a chance to replace the IAC, you will know right at start up in the morning if it's the IAC valve. Be sure to get back here and let us know if that was the problem...The more information we can share, the more it can save someone else say, like $95 bucks too!
)
If that is not the problem there are other areas to go, but if I was betting on the Cowboys... Longhorns.... Rangers... Rats... all my teams lost when it counted.... Well maybe your an Aggie, and life is good...... Oh, like I was saying, bet that is your problem!
I'm in the DFW area, so unless your down south. like Houston I'm guessing your right around here. Should be cold the next few mornings. So if you get a chance to replace the IAC, you will know right at start up in the morning if it's the IAC valve. Be sure to get back here and let us know if that was the problem...The more information we can share, the more it can save someone else say, like $95 bucks too!
) If that is not the problem there are other areas to go, but if I was betting on the Cowboys... Longhorns.... Rangers... Rats... all my teams lost when it counted.... Well maybe your an Aggie, and life is good...... Oh, like I was saying, bet that is your problem!
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From: Austin
Well, actually, if you carefully read my "handle", you'll see I'm an ASU alum, but since I live just north of Austin and did attend one PG semester at UT, I guess I have a tiny bit of orange in my blood. . .Should have the change-out done by the Friday, so will advise.
Thanks,
Neal
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From: suburban atlanta
If you are not getting a faster idle when the engine is first started, and is cold, then the IAC is a likely culprit. You could also have old spark plugs, a faulty engine temperature sensor or a faulty air temperature sensor. The sensors would not give the ECM the proper information that it needed to increase fuel flow a bit to compensate for lower evaporation at colder temperatures, and the plugs could misfire more when a cold more than when the mix is better warmed up.
tom
tom
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Junior User
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From: Austin
If you are not getting a faster idle when the engine is first started, and is cold, then the IAC is a likely culprit. You could also have old spark plugs, a faulty engine temperature sensor or a faulty air temperature sensor. The sensors would not give the ECM the proper information that it needed to increase fuel flow a bit to compensate for lower evaporation at colder temperatures, and the plugs could misfire more when a cold more than when the mix is better warmed up.
tom
tom
Plugs are the originals and have 76K on them. "Supposedly" good to 100K, of course, but that's actually the first thing I suspected when I began to notice the issue.
RE: air temp sensor, where's that located on this engine?
Thanks,
Neal
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From: Austin
My '02 Jeep allows me to read codes from the odometer. Is there a feature like that on the Escape/Mariner?
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From: Austin
Update
Carefully watched the idle this AM with a cold (~65º garage) startup. Idle speed is normal: 1500-1600 rpm to begin, slowly dropping to 1100 and finally settling in around 750, but smoother by the time it hit 1100.
As such, I'm beginning to question the faulty IAC diagnosis, since I gather that I should be seeing some other goofy symptoms (erratic speed, dying, etc.). But just for grins, I've gone to 4 auto parts stores looking for an IAC. None of them had 'em in stock, but here is the price range:
Auto Zone - $135
Pep Boys - $130
Car Quest - $120
O'Reilly - $74
Dealer's price is around $156
I'm going to proceed with a plug change-out today and see what that does, since it is a maintenance item that will have to be done at some point soon. After that, I'll clean the MAF and TB (neither have been cleaned to date).
If there's still no joy, I'll get the codes read, although I suspect there will be nothing to see.
I don't want to throw parts at the problem, so I welcome any additional suggestions!
Thanks,
Neal
Any o
As such, I'm beginning to question the faulty IAC diagnosis, since I gather that I should be seeing some other goofy symptoms (erratic speed, dying, etc.). But just for grins, I've gone to 4 auto parts stores looking for an IAC. None of them had 'em in stock, but here is the price range:
Auto Zone - $135
Pep Boys - $130
Car Quest - $120
O'Reilly - $74
Dealer's price is around $156
I'm going to proceed with a plug change-out today and see what that does, since it is a maintenance item that will have to be done at some point soon. After that, I'll clean the MAF and TB (neither have been cleaned to date).
If there's still no joy, I'll get the codes read, although I suspect there will be nothing to see.
I don't want to throw parts at the problem, so I welcome any additional suggestions!
Thanks,
Neal
Any o
Logistics Pro
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From: suburban atlanta
ACT - Air Charge Temp sensor would be located in the filter box or in the tube leading to the throttle body. ECT - Engine Coolant Temp sensor would be located in the block or cylinder head. There are normally two coolant sensors. One for the dash gauge, and one for the ECM. The location of all three varies from model to model, and I don't have them memorized at all... In other words, uneeda book. Or a helpful poster here!! You could also connect a scan tool to the OBD-II connector and get the readings that the ECM is seeing directly. I think.
tom
tom
Last edited by tomw; Dec 2, 2010 at 12:45 PM. Reason: add scan tool
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Don't want to throw a monkey wrench into your plans, but I doubt very much it is your spark plugs. I had mine swapped out at 110,000 and my mechanic showed me the old ones to me, he said they were fine with very little wear. But if you have something else going on, it could mess up the plugs, but again doubt it. And just a side note, the fuel injectors on the V6 engine are self cleaning, no need to waste money on fuel injector cleaner.
If it's not the IAC, I would look at the other components first before going thru all the trouble of changing spark plugs. If your plugs were that bad, you would be seeing more problems than what you're having.
If it's not the IAC, I would look at the other components first before going thru all the trouble of changing spark plugs. If your plugs were that bad, you would be seeing more problems than what you're having.