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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #31  
Lloydable's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
I hear ya buddy. Sorry I can't help this time. Here's a write-up I did that covers a few things about doing a glow plug replacement.

Glow Plug Install 10-10 pictures from trucks photos on webshots

thanks!
thats a huge help. Sinc i have to take all these parts anyway, I am wondering it i should attempt FRX and HPX too and cleaning everything... probably not.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:15 PM
  #32  
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The high torque denso style starter ftom dbelectrical starter works great. Spins the motor much faster. Good thing is you can keep your stock one as they do not require a core
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:27 PM
  #33  
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Definitely sounds like a GP/GPR problem... the intermittent GP LED sounds like a GPR to me. But if your GP's and GPR are good, one cycle is all it should take to get it to fire when above 0*. Mine fired up just fine at 14* with only one cycle of the key and cranking as soon as the WTS light went out. I also have 298K on my truck... I doubt age has much to do with it. And I X2 on the Motorcrafts... AutoLites are crap. They will sweel over time and then break off and get stuck in the heads when you go to change them. The only things to do are either to leave the heads in there and not have a GP in there, punch the broken tip into the cylinder and hope it goes out the exhaust, or pull the heads and do it up right.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:29 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JonathanN
They will sweel over time and then break off and get stuck in the heads when you go to change them. The only things to do are either to leave the heads in there and not have a GP in there, punch the broken tip into the cylinder and hope it goes out the exhaust, or pull the heads and do it up right.
There will be a large amount of residue in my pants if i have to deal with this...
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:41 PM
  #35  
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From: Garden City, KS
Originally Posted by Lloydable
There will be a large amount of residue in my pants if i have to deal with this...
Hopefully, you'll luck out like I did and have a truck that NEVER had the GP's replaced... my truck had 287K on it when it finally got new GP's. It was so bad that my truck would barely start at any temperature much colder than 60* unless it was plugged in.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:42 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Ponyboychris
Dan, FYI he's an early bird truck so no AIH.
I didn't know that the early ones were not equipped with the heater.
Thanks for clearing that up.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #37  
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So I just talked to the original owner and the GPR and glow plugs are original. Batteries have been replaced 3 times.

So its definitely due. That starter looks interesting.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 03:08 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Lloydable
So I just talked to the original owner and the GPR and glow plugs are original. Batteries have been replaced 3 times.

So its definitely due. That starter looks interesting.
Dude, you lucked out... it'll be really nice and easy to get them GP's out. They'll "pop" and then be finger loose all the rest of the way out. Here's a thread I started that might help you out: link.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by JonathanN
Dude, you lucked out... it'll be really nice and easy to get them GP's out. They'll "pop" and then be finger loose all the rest of the way out. Here's a thread I started that might help you out: link.

thanks man!
just got word from Clay that the GP are on the way
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 06:22 PM
  #40  
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I figure u will unhook them when u have install all the other parts, but if not, "shiny" up all your battery terminals really good when u put it back together. I cleaned mine in late spring. I had no corrosion but was having sluggish starter action. I assumed the starter was smoked b/c the company I bought it from had trouble cranking it when cold b/c of GPR. You could smell it baking at times. They would just wind and wind on it. B/c of budget constraints, I am only able to do the bare necessities right now.

All that being said, I "shiny'd" up all the terminals over the weekend as well as checking resistance on the battery cables and its fixed the sluggish starts. My GPR is wired to a push button switch in the cab and I hold it until the wts light goes out + 10 seconds and have had no problems.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 06:45 PM
  #41  
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What part of CO are you in? If I can ask a favor, do 2 things:

1. Update your profile with your location (city, state)
2. Add a signature that has the current mods you have on your truck (and keep it updated!)

Thanks!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 07:54 PM
  #42  
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I would look at the GPR/GP's and all associated wiring first replace and see how she does on regular Dino just so you know. If you want to switch to synthetic that is cool. I would but I dont like the assciated costs of Synthetic. I dont think I would switch unless I had to some of these trucks are weird they dont like Dino in the cold.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 08:30 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by papadelogan
What part of CO are you in? If I can ask a favor, do 2 things:

1. Update your profile with your location (city, state)
2. Add a signature that has the current mods you have on your truck (and keep it updated!)

Thanks!
He's up in the Boulder area. His truck is an e99 that's mainly stock with Isspro gauges and a JW tranny.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 08:31 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Lloydable
thanks!
thats a huge help. Sinc i have to take all these parts anyway, I am wondering it i should attempt FRX and HPX too and cleaning everything... probably not.
It wouldn't be a bad idea since all your IC tubes and intake would be out of the way.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 10:05 AM
  #45  
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Alright, I'll get that done.

Last night i switched it over to Valvoline Full Syn 5w40 and it made quite a difference. the truck was plugged in, so it wasn't a great test, but it was noticable even like that. I also cleaned up my headlights and put much nicer bulbs in and another huge difference.

I don't have real good before and after pictures but....









 
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