That's true given two cirrcumstances:

First nothing goes wrong with the modern technology - you are talking about routine upkeep not troubleshooting or fixes. That's a lot of confidence and IMO quite a gamble.

Second all the interfaces between the new and old stuff work properly - especially your electrical supply and equipment - without inpact, and when something does go wrong with the modern technology, the person who plugs it into his computer, understands the impacts the original equipment has (like 14 AWG wiring instead of printed circuits the repair may call for) on the new stuff and is willing/capable of working on something that is extremely modified.

I guess AX said it best - it's a matter of your own experineces with the newer stuff and the older stuff.

 

This is an interesting conversation especially considering I've spent the last couple of evenings putzing around with separating the EFI wiring out of a complete underhood harness for re-use in my F-2. I will say this from my own perspective - every vehicle I own either has EFI or is going to get it soon. Carburetors and mechanical distributors are somewhat simple if that's your thing and you don't mind the monthly tinker and tune ritual to keep everything running top notch. EFI can deliver more performance, vastly better reliability and driveability, much better fuel economy, and less maintenance to boot. It's so versatile and adaptable that it can make a tired, worn-out engine run like a brand new one. No neglected carburetor or gummed up mechanical distributor can do that.

I don't understand the misconception that it takes a vast amount of knowledge and special equipment to maintain or repair it, either. In the event that there is a problem, Ford's EEC-IV system will tell you exactly where it hurts and what it's upset about by doing nothing more than shorting two pins together in the diagnostic plug and reading the flashes of the "Check Engine" light. Anybody can do it, the trouble code lists are free all over the internet, and everybody has a paperclip floating around in their desk drawer. GM's system is similar. A code scanner makes it even easier, but isn't necessary.

As far as swapping it all over to your existing long block goes, there should be no problem. There really isn't anything "EFI specific" about the long block. I've been working on my buddy's '90 Bronco off and on for a couple weeks now and we should be able to finally start it in the next day or two. We removed a seriously exhausted EFI 5.0L and replaced it with a fresh 351W. The short block is a reman that came out of an '85 Bronco, heads are off of a '73 Torino, EFI components are left over from a '91 E-250 van I scrapped out, 351W computer came out of a salvage yard truck, and it's all plugged in to the stock 5.0L wiring harness. Nothing difficult about it.

 

Have a business I use my 68 ( carb. rebuild 302, headers, ect. ) and my new truck use them both hard for work. The gas cost is close to being the same. Never bought a truck that the window sticker mpg was right. I do agree on mpg on small cars with 6cly's or smaller get's a lot better mpg with the new system. My son's suv with over 100.000 miles that has the "new system" lets see he had replaced fuel pump $275.00 now my 68 would of been what $50.00. He has a new problem within the "new system", ran codes not much in help this time, so guess what he's going to have to get it towed to a shop. More $$$. I think it's the first time we ever had to have anything towed to a shop, sad sad sad. The practically EFI swap, time and cost just not there for me.

 

I don't know what all this constant tinkering is the EFI guys are referring to. I put many miles on a mid 70's Ford E250 camper van I had. I rebuilt the carb on it when I bought it ( less then $50 including the cleaner ) . I put it back on the engine, tuned it where I wanted it and never had to touch the carb again ( except for fuel filter changes ) . I pulled some heavy loads with that van too! It still ran great when I scrapped it because the body was rusted away. It's not like you need a little leprechaun sitting under your hood constantly tuning the carb while you driving down the road!

Now I do prefer a magnetic pick up distributor over a points set up though. I'm sticking with a good old Duraspark II set up on mine. If it needs fixing it's cheap and easy to repair. Just carry a spare ignition module and magnetic pick up in my glove box. That's as complicated as I want to get on mine!

If I was worried about getting maximum power, maximum mileage, etc. I would just get a new car and skip the old vehicle.

Nothing says cool like popping the hood and seeing a complicated mess of EFI parts sitting on top of the engine.

 

personally id go barb,its old school,simpler,cheaper...and it been around for more than 50 years???never heard of a car/truck that its been send to the scrapper because the barb failed...just my 2 cents...

 

Very interesting range of thoughts on this, it is approaching the original frame verse the different frame style of issue.
A couple of points. The first is reliability. I really don't think there is much difference between the two, just different. I have a 98 Ranger with 274,000 miles on it and I have never had a problem with the EFI. On the other hand I have had cars with almost 200,000 with no carb issues.

Drivability, is where the EFI shines. No worry about cold weather starts. If I drive up into the mountains the EFI compinsates. Over all it is a better driving unit.

Now for appearance and this is really important. I really like and prefer the look of the carb verses the look of the sequential EFI as seen on new cars with all the wiring and hoses and such. Just not for me. So the best of both worlds is the throttle body EFI I was talking about before. No mass of wires, basic fuel configuration and hard to tell it is a EFI with the air cleaner on it.

But in the end all that matters is what do YOU want for your truck. Look at all the ways these trucks are built. They range from stockers to hot rods to customs and everywhere in between. All built to suit the wants and needs of the owner, WHY should this be any different???? Build what makes you happy. There is no right way and no wrong way.

jim

 

BlueOval, you may have just single handedly talked me back into this without even really trying. Are you saying that even if I have a non-stock cam (read wilder than stock, but still pretty mild), I can put the EFI stuff on and it should be alright?

 

The 351W trucks ran a speed density type EFI system all the way up to until 1996, so I would say that is more than likely what the donor truck will have. Most people prefer mass air EFI systems because they aren't quite as finicky about engine mods. With that said, speed density isn't nearly as hostile to mods as it's made out to be. Speed density not being compatible with engine mods is a myth perpetuated by the 5.0L Mustang drag racers who found out that they had to swap to mass air to get their radical, hairy race motors to run right. As long as the displacement is pretty close to what the computer is calibrated for and the vacuum signal is good, it should work just fine. I haven't got it installed in the car yet, but I've ran the new engine for my Falcon on the test stand and it idles and runs great. It's a 302 stroked to 347 CI, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, GT40 intakes, and a 5.0L HO cam driven by a speed density 351W ECM from a truck. Seems to be pretty mod friendly to me!

Ultimately, it really depends on exactly what cam it has in it and how much lobe separation angle it has. Speed density normally wants a minimum of 112 degrees LSA. If your cam is truly pretty mild and it has a smooth idle then it should qualify. If your cam provides a lumpy idle, the LSA may be too low and you may have some idle issues. It would be better if you knew the exact cam specs to be sure, but if it's really pretty tame I'd go for it. Worst case, you have idle issues and have to swap to mass air. The most difficult and time consuming part is doing the initial EFI installation. If it turns out that a mass air swap is necessary after that it's a pretty simple afternoon project.

Last note - somebody else mentioned it in this thread already, but what transmission does the donor truck have? If it's an electronically controlled automatic, the computer will be a little unhappy about it not being attached. Even that can be overcome, though. A few properly sized resistors soldered into the harness and the computer won't even know it isn't there. With your background, it wouldn't even be a challenge.

 

I had to bring up a point that hasn't been addressed yet in this thread (or I might have missed it).
Longevity. If it matters to you. Personally, I'm not into racing, burnouts, brute power, etc.,. The way that I think about my engines is that they are machines. I like a finely built & tuned machine. And I try & maintain them as that.
One of the benefits that is derived out of the computer controlled engine management systems is that they constantly monitor & adjust to what is going on. This is why you don't have cold start issues and possible engine flooding, detonation due to too much timing, etc.
It is my personal belief that this is why new vehicles are running so many more miles. A couple of decades ago, if I had a car that was approaching 100K on the clock it was time to unload it or spend major duckets.

 

I hear what you are saying. But the same time , you can also remember you did not pay $25,000+ for the computer controlled engine or pay monthly payment as high as a small house payment or still have payment's after 100,000 miles. That's why life was simple back then. 60's - 70's cars made more sense. They were a lot less financial burden. Equal's more and better family time. I'm a baby boommer myself; we sure have made a mess of things.

 

I'm 35, I've never paid more than $7000 for a car. I've never had a car payment anywhere near what my house payment is, and my house payment is not very much. I haven't had a car payment since I was 24. Other than tires, and the occasional deal on an oil change, I haven't paid a single dime to have work done on them. Not counting upkeep, I have a grand total of $300 into the six cars that I've owned since then considering what I paid for them and then later sold them for, I've had some really reliable, good looking, and well maintained cars, and that's counting both cars that my wife and I drive now. Seriously, other than routine stuff, a halfshaft here, wheel bearings there, maybe a couple struts, or an O2 sensor, I have been extremely blessed. People that pay $25,000+ for a car do it because they choose to. I have little financial burden. I work 40 hours a week, no more. I spend a lot of fantastic time with my amazing wife and wonderful kids, I go to school, I'm rapidly paying off debt, I'm putting money away for retirement, and I still find life pretty simple.

 

I'm so glad for you that all is going great! Good for you!

 

Hey man...it's YOUR truck...have at it......

Good luck...keep us posted!

Good thread...I thought I was gettin' a LOT of crap for goin'
with a tri power...ha-ha......

Although...it's still sittin' in the basement...nowhere near there yet...

But...from what I have been reading and hearing...dialing in a triple-duce
will be a BREEZE compared to retro-fitting an EFI system......

Ol' Skool RulZ.....

I know how it goes...when we started this '56 project...the KISS rule was
the plan...THEN...one thing led to another...9" rear end...with ALL new
internals...TCI IFS...with bags...then a Fat Bar with bags...
...twin compressors...gotta go with a custom fabbed frame notch...
...frame boxing...man...where does it end???


The best layed plans......

-

 

Everybody talks about how hard it is to install EFI and I have been trying to show an easier way. So once more, here is the link: Professional Products Online

At least I have tried.

jim

 

EFI is not difficult, no more so than rewiring a standard carbed engine, doing bodywork or painting. There are aftermarket sources for wire harnesses and even small standalone ECUs that can be mounted right on the engine. It's just that it's "different" or they don't understand how it works that scares people, just as back in the day there were a lot of vehicle owners that found anything mechanical to be "difficult" to work on and understand. That's what kept mechanics and service stations in business. Today there are few mechanics left, just technicians that can access the vehicle computer and decode what it is telling them the problem is, then replace the faulty part. It's today's engines that are the simple ones.