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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 11:45 PM
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Input Appreciated

Hello My Friends, I'm new to this forum and would like your input.

Just bought a 78 f-150 Ranger 2wd, 400 motor, c-6 trans.

Truck was owned by a paint & body man. He restored it about 10 years ago, but as his kids grew up and crap happens, it sat behind his house for several years, until I purchased it. Truck is in good shape, accept for several rust problems that are coming through the paint i.e pass. front fender, bottom cab corners, bottom of both doors, window rails (Sides not top).

I know that I will be doing my share of welding in patch panels, but what should I use for the very pitted areas of the cab. I have read about por-15 and other rust sealers, whats your take?

I will be pulling the motor for repaint and minor mods, repainting engine bay, frame rails etc....

This is a project that I'm going to do myself. I've always wanted to restore a Mustang, but the prices are way out there, next best thing will be this truck.

In starting a restoration like this, where the crap do you start???

Very Excited about this project, and have been a Ford Man all my life.

Thanks in advance!!!
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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Welcome to FTE. Por-15 IMO is no better than Rust-Oleum.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 08:55 AM
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Hey thanks Mark. Right now I'm going through old posts and using the search feature. Solid info to be found here. Just trying to get some chatter started.

In using the Rust-O would you go to bare metal, say sand blast, then prime then body filler?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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Welcome to FTE. Up here in Canada I can find a product called Zero-Rust, u might have access there (not sure), this will deter rust not kill it. Its very nice to work with. Depending on how extensive the rust is, I myself like to get rid of as much, if not all the rust as the best way is to cut the section out and replace with new steel, either aftermarket or homemade (this is easy depending on your bodywork skills). Inspect the rusted part by using a rubber mallet, or look from the backside if possible. If say the door would cost u more than $200 or so to fix, I would check your local "body panel outlet" to see how much a replacement one cost, (u just have to swap you're window and "guts" to the new one). Couple tips for now, I could probably sit here and type all day. Let us know how you're making out or any more Q's. >>
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 10:59 AM
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Well I love new metal so standard ops here cut and paste in new metal where ever you find rust. Make sure to check your floors they go out quick.

POR-15 is great because once it cures as long as you followed the instructions isn't coming out of anything till you take a grinder too it. Seriously no clothes no fingers. However it is very susceptible to UV rays make sure you keep it covered if outside. They do make a clear coat for it if you want.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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POR 15 is the only product local body shops use in my area, its bullet proof
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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I would take a bullet for my por15
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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Yep, doors will have to be replaced, bottoms are pretty totaled. The guy did a decent job on the body work, just sat in the weather too long. Couple of holes in the floorpans, no biggie.

Best place for replacement parts... doors, fenders, etc...??? Several catalogs are on the way.

I have no Paint & Body experience, I am getting info from Friends that are, and forums like this one. I really feel that the work won't be done right unless I do it, sound kinda stupid but that's just me.

Whenever I jump into something I research it out pretty well. Like I said, I've always wanted to restore a vehicle, I want to be able to say "Yep, did all the work myself"

I'll post some pics of her when I get back to N.C.

Thanks Guys!!!
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Well depends some places offer factory replacements and others offer thicker metal depends on what you want 'factory' restoration or a usable one
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 08:06 PM
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Factory, from what I understand some "Aftermarket" parts have "Fitting" problems. Since this truck is in fairly good shape, I'll spend extra for quality parts.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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Well Bronco graveyard always has good stuff LMC is expensive and some have found the metal to be thin on occasion.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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Good Deal, both of those catalogs are on the way. Will be making room in the shop so I can get her out of the elements.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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knock all of the bondo out that way you can tell exactly what you are dealing with !!
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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Good News, 2 doors, hood, 2 fenders..light surface rust, c-6 trans guaranteed.... all for $250.00 bucks. Picking up Monday. Gotta love C/List!

Question, is there a clear coat that you can spray on aluminum to keep it "New Looking" so it doesn't oxidize, ie...intake man., trans case???
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 12:50 PM
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[quote=Guy B;9608218]Good News, 2 doors, hood, 2 fenders..light surface rust, c-6 trans guaranteed.... all for $250.00 bucks. Picking up Monday. Gotta love C/List!


I got most of my truck stuff on C/list too. If you cant find it, Wait a week...
 
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