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"Hot" 360 setup. Does it really exist?

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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 09:50 PM
  #16  
Ziegelsteinfaust's Avatar
Ziegelsteinfaust
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From: Chino Hills
A 360 is a good motor and can be built up, but the real question why? You can stroke it to 390 or 410 easily plus overbore.

I have a 352 and while I would rebuild it with a bit more compression, and a modern can. I would not add edelbrock heads, ported stock heads, med or high riser heads, but I would do bolt-ons I could re-use on a big FE.

So unless you have a fresh motor like I do I would save for a rebuild to go for the power.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 08:53 PM
  #17  
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From: Moreno Valley
Originally Posted by saskpwr
I was wondering how you get power out of a healthy 360. I understand its like squeezing water out of a rock but wanted to find out what you guys run as far as ignition timing and if there's any good parts that wake them up like cams, carbs or intakes. I do have a 1960's 390 cam thats from a Fairlane 500 but I doubt that would help.
The truck is used as a winter vehicle and is started in -40 without a block heater a few times. I've heard that the truck cams from the 70's suck because they're retarded from the factory but I'm not sure if this applies to FE's too or if thats 351/400's. Do retarded cams help on the bottom end or do they just suck in general?
The 360 has the pistons .104 in the hole (as most late 390s) With a custom piston...or a Oversize Chrysler 340 piston (use 340 chrylser pin) and the deck milled the 360 is just as good as a old 352. Very capable of good power. Everything trick that works on a 390 or 428 will work on a 360.
JUST get the Piston near the top of the deck
No problem making a 300+ hp 360

Lonnie
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #18  
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Diggin this one up...

What are the recommended headers? Sandersons or FPA?

Any ideas on what a warmed up 360 should put out with whats been discussed here? Head work, intake, 4bbl carb, headers, electronic ignition...

I have a 360 and am having a hard time finding a good 390 or 428 crank and am considering just rebuilding it as a 360.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 06:45 PM
  #19  
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Ziegelsteinfaust
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From: Chino Hills
I think a good 360 with full bolt-ons could get close to 315 hp 390 tq before it starts using unessacary amounts of fuel.

If you add in more expensive items like edelbrock heads and roller rockers you can really have a stout FE with good manners.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 02:08 PM
  #20  
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I'm with John-
it sounds like you don't use it a whole lot (winter vehicle).
i'd say MSD/Pertronix/proper carb selection/high octane fuel...then tune the bejeesus out of it.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:55 AM
  #21  
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I think I'm just doing headers if there are some for 4x4's and maybe an intake that would swap over to another FE someday. 360's just needs too much money sunk into them in order to make good power (new pistons etc.). Will a 360's clutch and flywheel work on an automatic car's 390 or will there be balance issues?

Good ignition is important to a good cold starting motor but high octane fuel is harder to ignite so I've always had great success running commie purple gas that only farmers get. I've actually had problems running V power in low/weak compression vehicles because they have a harder time starting when it gets really chilly out.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #22  
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Sleepy445FE
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From: Axtell, TX
That sounds like the best bet. I used some 27" hooker long tubes on my 76 250 4x4. They work fine, no clearance issues but if you have to get to the starter you'll have to take off the header. I would say if you have plans on building something later then I would just get an Edel. perf rpm and then you'll have a good intake for whatever you can come up with. Thats what I did, an intake here, msd there, and just get what you can when you can and before you know it you've got everything you wanted.

Oh and everything is the same on a 360 and 390 except crank rods pistons. Both are internally balanced so no issues there.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 04:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Sleepy445FE
That sounds like the best bet. I used some 27" hooker long tubes on my 76 250 4x4. They work fine, no clearance issues but if you have to get to the starter you'll have to take off the header. I would say if you have plans on building something later then I would just get an Edel. perf rpm and then you'll have a good intake for whatever you can come up with. Thats what I did, an intake here, msd there, and just get what you can when you can and before you know it you've got everything you wanted.

Oh and everything is the same on a 360 and 390 except crank rods pistons. Both are internally balanced so no issues there.
Do your headers cook the starter? Do they go outside the framerails?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 05:12 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by saskpwr
Do your headers cook the starter? Do they go outside the framerails?
Header will cook starters, use a starter wrap. Hookers are inside the rails.





John
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #25  
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From: Axtell, TX
I ran them for 3yrs no wrap. No problems. I've heard it can happen but there doesnt seem to be any damage. After the 445 build I put some wrap on the headers though, just to be safe, and it keeps it alot cooler under the hood. And as said they are inside the rails and pretty snug to the starter.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 04:54 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Sleepy445FE
I ran them for 3yrs no wrap. No problems. I've heard it can happen but there doesnt seem to be any damage. After the 445 build I put some wrap on the headers though, just to be safe, and it keeps it alot cooler under the hood. And as said they are inside the rails and pretty snug to the starter.
I have 5 or more years on my last starter that is now wrapped, but I have replaced 3-4 too. Got only about 50 cranks out of one. Could have been buying bad remains also. Went to NAPA for the last one.




John
 
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