Ok, I live in the NW and were not really that used to cold weather (17 F). So, yesterday my truck had a hard time starting on one cycle of glow plugs. Today, I cycled them 2 times about 1 min 45 sec each time. It started right up with a little romp-romp- until I gave it a very small amount of throttle. Times were taken with digital MM on the GPR. Voltage on the big post that's always hot was 11.64 and voltage on the other big post was 11.5 volts with the key in the on position. Makes me believe the GPR is working.

I don't have a MM that will read low ohms so I'm off to get one today to check glow plugs, but all 8 were replaced one year a go with factory plugs.

I had my batteries checked yesterday and the CCA's came back good as well as the alternator.

Am I just not use to cold weather (17 F) and the starting sequence.... or is something going wrong?

 

Had the exact same starting experience yesterday. I'm not too worried, but will probably take the opportunity to check out the GPR. Probably going to be a bit worse today with the colder temps.

 

You shouldn't have to cycle the key to have it start. It has been cold here (7* in Lake Stevens this morning) and mine has been starting with about 4 seconds of cranking. Normal on mine is only a second or two.

Your glow plugs are most likely ok since you replaced them, and if the GPR has voltage at the output post you are sending power to the GP's.

Could be your oil is just really cold and thick, or maybe time for an oil change? It does make a difference to have clean oil. Switching to 5W-40 synthetic in the winter helps too.

 

When your WTS light goes out, start counting seconds. If really cold out I will count to about 20 seconds after the light goes out. The glow plugs stay powered up well after the light goes away. The longer you wait the warmer it will be when you start it. I think someone here once posted it was on for about 1 1/2 minutes before they powered off. This will keep you from having to cycle it at all.... Just have to wait a little longer.

 

Run 5w40 synthetic oil and your romp-romp on cold start will go away, as well as getting a faster start due to a more rapid pressure buildup due to faster IPR response.

 

I agree with Ken and Pete... a lot of cold weather starts can be eliminated by just switching to 5w40 syn oil.. like Rotella T6... and you can use it year round.. gets better mileage, better for your turbo and your injectors will love it.. (get it a Walmart)..
You can also extend your oil changes to kinda of make up for the extra cost ..

 

No you can't, not on diesels...they are too hard on oil.

 

The gp's will stay on up towards 2min when you turn the key to the on position. They stay on way after the wait to start light goes out.

 

You are not correct with that statement..........................!

 

really just HEIU diesels. Some still say they will take our trucks on extended oil runs but I wouldn't chance it at all. With the hpop sending oil pressure upwards to 3k why would you not just change the oil every 4-5k for added insurance on these $$ engines

 

Just goin by what I've been told...

Full synthetic oil in the 7.3 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

 

Is there a reason you can't plug the truck up for a few hours before starting?
I have been on the road at hotels where there were no plugs available and with low temps in the a.m. would cycle the glow plugs at least two, maybe three times. I just do not like hearing that engine 'romp' like that - sends cold chills up me.
Before having my tranny rebuilt, I had a small heating pad on the trans to help with cold morning get up and goes. With over 380K miles I think plugging the truck in most every night (year round) has help prolong the life of the glow plugs.
I also run the Rotella Syn 15W40 in summer and the 5W30 in the winter. Has worked well so far.

 

Sure you can plug it up and it would make a big difference as long as it would be plugged in for 3 hours or so. it would also help get you warm air faster in the cab.

 

I've been having a similar problem in my truck. I'm not sure when the gp's were replaced but the motor has 257k on the clock. My question is when your motor finally turns over does it pump out white smoke?

 

Have you ohmed out your gp's to see if you have any bad ones? Also have you checked your gp relay out to see? On another note, have you checked compression? Before I had a rebuilt longblock put in I had good gp's and relay and had white smoke on cold starts no matter temp outside. Ended up being low compression on couple cylinders.