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I've been calling around trying to find a shop that has the proper tool/machine to properly dial in the timing since I installed new injectors. None claim to have a functioning machine. Syco recommended me a shop and his machine died not too long ago, so he does it by ear. The guy is VERY reputable and has been a diesel mechanic for years. Another shop said to line up the hash marks on the IP and block and then turn it the thickness of a hash mark towards the passenger side. He said that'll be dead nuts.
The injectors I pulled out of the motor were very tired and the IP was replaced by the PO a year ago. I assume he dialed the timing in for the tired injectors. I'm not sure how to tell by ear if it needs to be advanced or retarded.
Do you think International service department will have the proper machine?
I could ask my local IH dealer if it is an essential tool required by IH. It was not by GM on the 6.2's and 6'5's. What most people use is a pulse adapter for a timing light. I have never tried to chase it. I have just gone by the marks on the pump and gear cover for years.
Is the hash mark width towards the passenger side a rule of thumb?
I called the dealer technician when setting my timing and he said they set it two widths of the hash mark (2x dime width) to the passenger side. He said 9 out of 10 times it is dead on.
I called the dealer technician when setting my timing and he said they set it two widths of the hash mark (2x dime width) to the passenger side. He said 9 out of 10 times it is dead on.
Where are the hash marks located? On top of the IP? Maybe I'll give it a look to see if it's currently way off and give it a go myself. Then I'll go see the guy who does it by ear to see what he thinks.
How do you know when it's timed properly by ear? Does it sound better?
Timing by ear or setting it to the hash marks don't mean anything, if the IP is not the original and you set it to the hash mark, it will not be dead nuts, every injector pump is different, you can not have one be perfect in timing and then install another one in the same exact spot and it be the same. Its just not going to happen. What you need to do is find a diesel shop that has a pulse or luminosity timing meter for your truck. Heck you can even buy them on ebay reactivity cheap and there easy to use also. So do your self a favor and get the meter if you want your timing to be right exact.
I have done it both ways... by ear and with a pulse adapter and yes 2 hash marks to passenger side is pretty darn close to wear I ended up. I was able to borrow a pulse adapter and I doubt I ever do buy one unless the prices come down. at the time I did mine the cheapest I could find was $175 for a used one!
Is it smoking much? If it's to far advanced you will get white smoke on accelleration, too retarded and you get white smoke at idle. When I changed my injectors and took it to the shop, he told me that it was advanced 4.5 degrees too far. I goofed and gave him the specs I wanted without checking to see which tool he had and made him advance it to 9.7*(should have been 0* with his tool)) and the thing smoked white everywhere I went. I went back the next day asked him to do it the way it should have been done. In his defense, he tried to talk me out of the 9.7 but I thought I knew what I was doing.
It'll smoke most when idling at a light and taking off, then on shifts. Sometimes when getting after it, but not when maintaining speed rolling down the road.
i just payed through the nose for one.
iv been wanting it for awhile.i was hoping to pay around 200 or so,i had to fight with myself and the other guy last seconds to suck it up and pay the extra 40 lol.
now i have THE preferred IDI timing meter.
thanks to OBN member for letting me know everything i needed was included since they no longer make these gems.
he said:"The magnetic probe that enters the timing location at the vibration dampner is arout $275.00 for replacement."
and its included.
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