Clutch linkage
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,360
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From: SW VA
Clutch linkage
For anyone with a 4-spd: Is your equalizer bar (Z bar) parallel to the ground and perpendicular to the frame rail? Does the threaded rod slide perfectly through the Z-bar and into the socket on the clutch fork?
My Z-bar is all jacked up. The threaded rod lines up with the spring hole on my clutch fork, and the return spring rubs pretty bad on the Z-bar. There is no adjustment to cure my issues.
Basically, I am going to have to make my own custom Z-bar and frame mount to put the rod where it needs to be without severely binding...
My Z-bar is all jacked up. The threaded rod lines up with the spring hole on my clutch fork, and the return spring rubs pretty bad on the Z-bar. There is no adjustment to cure my issues.
Basically, I am going to have to make my own custom Z-bar and frame mount to put the rod where it needs to be without severely binding...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Here's an adjustment to check:
I discovered that my FE was canted/rotated over towards the passenger side. The engine perches (bolted to the frame) have slotted holes for the motor mounts and the mounts were maxed out to one side. This misalignment caused the Z-bar to bind and eventually crack the engine-side Z-bar bracket. I stop-drilled the crack and rewelded the bracket so all is good now.
I discovered that my FE was canted/rotated over towards the passenger side. The engine perches (bolted to the frame) have slotted holes for the motor mounts and the mounts were maxed out to one side. This misalignment caused the Z-bar to bind and eventually crack the engine-side Z-bar bracket. I stop-drilled the crack and rewelded the bracket so all is good now.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,360
Likes: 4,394
From: SW VA
Thanks for the tip. In fact, my 460 was a very tight fit, so tight that one of the rubber motor mounts is twisted a little.
However, the original 400 that was in it had the same problem...
I think I will modify the frame mount and the Z-bar to make it work. Just 2 trips around the driveway, and the threaded rod is loose again. A few months ago, I took it to town and back, and the rod nearly fell out. That's how bad it is, and I will not drive it like that.
However, the original 400 that was in it had the same problem...
I think I will modify the frame mount and the Z-bar to make it work. Just 2 trips around the driveway, and the threaded rod is loose again. A few months ago, I took it to town and back, and the rod nearly fell out. That's how bad it is, and I will not drive it like that.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
The clutch release rod on my rig is the type with the eye on one end and the bullet tip on the other. It's mounted with a washer on each side of the eye and a thru-clip on the Z-bar's pin. I presume yours is a threaded rod all the way and screws into a threaded block that pivots on the Z-bar.
Isn't your version supposed to have jamb nuts to prevent it backing out?
Isn't your version supposed to have jamb nuts to prevent it backing out?
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