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I took truck in today new thermostats, temp takes 15 to 20 miles to come up on 35*f day. The teck saw my coolent filters, then he showed me a front cover with pin holes in it. He said now he understood why I put filters on coolent.
I took truck in today new thermostats, temp takes 15 to 20 miles to come up on 35*f day. The teck saw my coolent filters, then he showed me a front cover with pin holes in it. He said now he understood why I put filters on coolent.
Question for you. Could a guy take most of the front end off to get to the motor it you had too?
Maybe the way to go if a home repair.
I'm not Cheezit, but yes it's possible. I used to subscribe to the workshop manual for my last truck, and there is a procedure in there to do everything including removing the engine.
And there's a blurb at the top mentioning that cab removal is the preferred method to do it.
I'm not Cheezit, but yes it's possible. I used to subscribe to the workshop manual for my last truck, and there is a procedure in there to do everything including removing the engine.
And there's a blurb at the top mentioning that cab removal is the preferred method to do it.
Mine is loosing coolant too. Lost some then went a while and didn't loose a drop. Now i've lost about 10oz in 5000 miles and will need to fill it up again. Very strange. Will do another oil test but so far no issues with coolant in the oil. I'm assuming that means no cavitation issues correct?
Mine is loosing coolant too. Lost some then went a while and didn't loose a drop. Now i've lost about 10oz in 5000 miles and will need to fill it up again. Very strange. Will do another oil test but so far no issues with coolant in the oil. I'm assuming that means no cavitation issues correct?
I am certainly not the expert but as long as no air gets in there and your OA's are good I would think we are fine.
I wonder how much it would cost to change out to the new egr type that doesn't have a hose leading to the engine? My thinking is the coolant is hot so what keeps evaporation from going from the coolant bottle to the egr valve and into the engine. If thats possible then i'm sure i'm loosing some to evaporation.
I don't know guys, if it was evaporation under the hood wouldn't we smell it when we opened the hood on a hot engine? I mean I can usually smell leaking coolant a block away. Well OK, maybe a half block.
Check upper and lower radiator hoses for coolant residue and keep a real close eye on oil level of dipstick. Seen several covers cavitated allowing coolant into drain pan. Ford engineering still looking into root cause.
Mine was diagnosed as cover cavitation - will be getting fixed soon. Tech was looking into whether its easier to address cab on or cab off - he hasnt done a front cover yet. Any recommendations?
Also, any recommendations on how to prevent this from happening again? I dont think just replacing substandard parts with a **** poor design with similar junk qualifies as a fix! I dont mean to sound bitter, but my 6.oh was a $20000+ warranty claim truck and dont want to start the same trend here...
front cover is an easy job of your tech has not done one by now I would be more nervous then him...
the issue with cavatited front covers is low coolant, if the pump sucks air thats whats gonna happen.
has noting to do with anything being **** poor, it has lots to do with the very high flow rate.
front cover is an easy job of your tech has not done one by now I would be more nervous then him...
the issue with cavatited front covers is low coolant, if the pump sucks air thats whats gonna happen.
has noting to do with anything being **** poor, it has lots to do with the very high flow rate.
So, we as an owner need to ensure that this motor does not suck any air. To me that means don't let that degas bottle get below the min line and especially lower than the hose.