View Poll Results: How should i fix a minor leak?
Voters: 16. You may not vote on this poll
Bars Leaks block sealer?
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I did use the Bar's leak head gasket fix on our Cummins, it had coolant leak stains down the side of the block, not compression leaks, just coolant leaks, and it does seem to have taken care of it for now. Eventually the head gasket will get changed, but it is working for now, and it wasn't like it was a big leak anyway. If it was totally blown out, I doubt I would have tried at all. My uncle had a 454 that was starting to go, put the fix in and it got him home from Pennsylvania to Texas. Permanent, likely not, but seems to be a good temp fix to get you home, which many of these products are for.
Chemical fixes, no matter how premium or well-developed, can only go so far. If the leak is too severe and the gaps too wide, you need a hard fix, and no amount of selling a chemical fix will solve the problem. We have our tech phone support line specifically to help people decide if our products will solve their problem, and in some cases we have to bow out and tell them that a hard fix is necessary. Even our stronger HG1 product (w. carbon fiber) can only deal with a certain severity of leak.
Still, there are good chemical fix products on the market and bad ones. And unfortunately, the bad ones give the good ones a tough rap to overcome.
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Also, one more thing re: Bar's Leaks and diesel...
We are very familiar with the issues on the 6 liter PowerStroke engine. In most cases the gasket is not completely blown, as the issue with this engine is the lack of clamping force from the head bolts that actually allows the head to be lifted up off of the gasket and block under boost. If that is what is happening with your engine, the head gasket products we produce won’t be able to help. If it is truly a blown gasket, then our head gasket products could help. Unfortunately you would not know unless trying them and/or tearing down the engine to inspect. As an FYI, if you do have head gaskets installed on that engine, it is a good idea to have head studs installed in place of the bolts, and you should not have the issue again.
We are very familiar with the issues on the 6 liter PowerStroke engine. In most cases the gasket is not completely blown, as the issue with this engine is the lack of clamping force from the head bolts that actually allows the head to be lifted up off of the gasket and block under boost. If that is what is happening with your engine, the head gasket products we produce won’t be able to help. If it is truly a blown gasket, then our head gasket products could help. Unfortunately you would not know unless trying them and/or tearing down the engine to inspect. As an FYI, if you do have head gaskets installed on that engine, it is a good idea to have head studs installed in place of the bolts, and you should not have the issue again.
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Hello, sorry to bring up and old thread, but I'm having the same problems on a Nissan Sentra, I'm worried because I seem to have an air bubble and no heat so I dont think the coolant is circulating through the system, backs out to reservoir and when the car is running with the radiator cap off, coolant starts to comeout almost immediately
is there something I can do before I apply the product?
is there something I can do before I apply the product?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
It sounds like an air bubble behind the thermostat. If I replace a thermostat I try to use on with a bleeder, if one with a bleeder isn't available, then I will drill a small hole (about 1/8") in the outer disc portion of the thermostat, and install it so the hole is towards the top. This allows the air to escape.
Your car may also have a bleeder on the thermostat housing, if there is what looks like a little bolt head just above the thermostat, loosen it while filling the coolant so air can escape.
Your car may also have a bleeder on the thermostat housing, if there is what looks like a little bolt head just above the thermostat, loosen it while filling the coolant so air can escape.
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
yes you are right on, I have a blown head gasket and the combustion gases enters the cooling system and creates a bubble behind the thermo, I have no heat and the lower radiator hose is very cold compared to the top one.
I was planning on removing my thermostat to test it and/or replace it, I'm sure its fine but it doesn't work because of the air bubble.
is the thermostat bleeder on the thermo it self ? or is this bolt out side the housing?
I tried to run the car again while the cap is off, it seems still or very slightly goes up and down and then it started to give out huge bubbles, then it reached the top and started to spill, thats when I shut off the car and let it cool.
I disconnected the the lower hose where the thermo is to get some coolant out so I have room to put the head gasket sealant but I'm having second thoughts now as I dont think there is circulation and the sealant might get stuck somewhere in the radiator.
I will try the thermo bleeder but do you know of a better way to bleed the system from air?
I was planning on removing my thermostat to test it and/or replace it, I'm sure its fine but it doesn't work because of the air bubble.
is the thermostat bleeder on the thermo it self ? or is this bolt out side the housing?
I tried to run the car again while the cap is off, it seems still or very slightly goes up and down and then it started to give out huge bubbles, then it reached the top and started to spill, thats when I shut off the car and let it cool.
I disconnected the the lower hose where the thermo is to get some coolant out so I have room to put the head gasket sealant but I'm having second thoughts now as I dont think there is circulation and the sealant might get stuck somewhere in the radiator.
I will try the thermo bleeder but do you know of a better way to bleed the system from air?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
sounds like you are in a pinch ..remove the thermostat , use Blue Devil . I have got a few people going that way . Not the proper repair , just a get you by stopgap . Best of luck ! Oh , bleeding a Sentra is not too hard ... Elevate the front end , open bleeder ( if present ) fill , close bleeder , run and top off .
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I was also thinking of removing the thermostat all together, temporarily, do you think this will move the circulation and air bubble out of the system?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
Yes .. for this type of "fix " remove the t stat first ...
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I'm in a huge pinch lol I guess this answers my question about the thermostat,
Regarding bleeding the sentra, I'm a total newb
where is the bleeder? do you know of a youtube video to show it?
Do I run with the cap off and top at the same time?
Regarding bleeding the sentra, I'm a total newb
where is the bleeder? do you know of a youtube video to show it?
Do I run with the cap off and top at the same time?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
Sorry , not much good on youtube , Some nissan autos have a "bleeder " . It is a banjo bolt type bleeder . It is usually at a high point in the cooling system . Normally labeled " do not open while hot " Best of luck !
New User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thank you so much for your help (and Ford_six too) I will try to do some research on the internet and I hope to find something!
Thanks again, I'll remove the thermo and see what happens, then I'll see if I can replace it with a themo with a bleeder
Thanks again, I'll remove the thermo and see what happens, then I'll see if I can replace it with a themo with a bleeder
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