i didnt do the lifting or any of the suspension work on the truck, but the steering is like a game trying to keep the wheel straight. the trucks lifted 6 inches, with 3 inch body lift.

what is the right way to do the steering,

 

with a body lift the steering column should be extended some since it's further from it's intended position. check under the hood and i bet it's barely splined on the shaft. secondly, did they use a drop pitman with the suspension lift?

 

Get rid of the ghetto body lift. They're for queers. Also the rear is likely blocks (assumption based on ghetto body lift), ghetto trashy. if it is in fact blocks, do a shackle flip or get lift springs and don't look back.

How is the front lifted? Spings? Any spacers? Are axle pivots dropped? If so, dropped how much? Steering linkage? Drop pitman arm? Are axle pivot bushings tight?Are radius arm bushings tight? Are radius arm brackets dropped? Wheel bearings tight? Ball joints tight? Is steering box tight? Is rag joint tight?

We're talking basics man. Look over the basics and give more info. Also pics of the front suspension and steering will help to determine how scary this thing is.

 

like i said i didnt do it and thats why im writing this cause i dont know n e thing bout lift kits or n e thing along with it

 

i understand that, but it's hard to help without some information. cadunkle covered all the things to look for. if you got a digital camera take pics and post them up. it'll be easier for us to help if you can't explain your setup.

 

Yep, if you don't know what all this is, post pics of your suspension and steering and we'll tell you if anything is hacked together or what needs to be replaced.

Aside from that, do you know how to check wheel bearings, tie rod ends, and ball joints? Know how to inspect bushings?

We all gotta start somewhere, but if you don't give us any info we can't help you.If you don't know anything we'll learn you some tech, but you'll take a ribbing along the way.

 

The factory used rear blocks. 2 inch lift blocks for the f250's and 4 inch blocks for the f350's with the dana 60 front axle.

 

Are you implying it's perfectly fine to stack blocks? Are you implying the axle wrap you'll get from 6" tall blocks is not a concern?

 

well im trying to fgind out what is needed first, not necessarily asking what i have to do to fix what i have, bu i will take pics so u can tell me what they did wrong

 

Don't knock it till you try it. I thought they looked cheesy also, but this last truck I have already had them on there, and unless you are dumping the clutch and drag racing, I doubt you will ever notice. I have never had a problem with the blocks in the rear of my truck.

 

 

need more pics lemme know, im trying to get as much information about what i have as i can, also if u can tell me what kinda front n rear i got thatd be good to know,

 

Aren't you the guy who replaced your oil pan gasket without pulling the engine and then didn't get the oil pump driveshaf tlined up? How did you end up fixing that? Any leaks?

First thing that sticks out like a sore thumb is that steel line tied together with compression fitting. Please tell me that's not a brake line. If it is, replace the line or join them with a double flare. Accident waiting to happen if that's a brake line.

You have a drop pitaman arm and drop brackets for the axle pivots, so geometry shouldn't be terribly bad. Steering angle looks a bit steep, but not obscenely so. A more level ddrag link would help though.

Rear blocks aren't stacked so it's not terrible, but I'd recommend doing a shackle flip and ditching the blocks or getting shorter blocks. Axle wrap will bite you. Your front is a D44 TTB and the rear is an 8.8".

Have you checked your tie rod ends, ball joints, and wheel bearings for slop? How about steering box and rag joint (rag joint is under the plastic cover at input side of steering box). Try turning the wheel while looking at your tire. The tire should move instantly with the slightest move of the wheel. To check tie rods have a helper turn the wheel slightly back and forth and feel each tie rod end. You will feel slop and movement if they are loose. Alternative jack up the front and grab tire at each side, try turning it and feel for any slop and watch the tie rod ends while you do. To check ball joints grab top and bottom and shake it that way, any movement is likely bad ball joints and can be verified by looking at or feeling the joints while doing this to confirm movement. Any movement in either direction that you can't tie to ball joints or tie rods in wheel bearings.

 

Also it looks like you're running bias tires, maybe 38" Ground Hawgs? If they are in fact bias and that large... You're never gonna have it drive straight and perfect and not follow grooves in teh road or pull on uneven pavement. That's just how bias ply tires are.

Also, disregard what I said about compressioj fitting on that brake line... Looks like a trans cooler line. Didn't know people still ran slushboxes in woods trucks.

 

You have pretty much covered it. It looks like either the steering box was cleaned up or it is a replacement.
One thing I will say is this generation of Ford truck steer awful at best just stock. Then add wide tires, a lift kit.
I have an 86 F250 4x4 460. It has a new steering box, new shocks, new tie rod ends, new ball joints etc, when I hook our TT to it the steering is not what I call real firm. What I had to do was find a Ford front end guy that knew these trucks & get him to set up the alignment to get it to steer correct.
That is my recommendation. Is get it into a guy that knows these trucks & let him align it. With the I-Beam 4x4 they are a breed of there own.

Craig