Broken d50 TTB
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,441
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From: Muskegon, MI (home)
I had a D50 TTB in the front of my 84 F250, it held up fine for me. I plow with it every winter and yank heavy trailers around all year long. I never broke anything on it, I put a couple sets of axle joints in and a new set of lockouts... like I said it help up fine for me. I did the D60 SAS because the TTB was eating tires up like crazy.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Tulsa, OK
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: CASA GRANDE AZ
only reason asked was in AZ dont have rust issues !
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 338
Likes: 2
From: Northern MA
I had a D50 TTB in the front of my 84 F250, it held up fine for me. I plow with it every winter and yank heavy trailers around all year long. I never broke anything on it, I put a couple sets of axle joints in and a new set of lockouts... like I said it help up fine for me. I did the D60 SAS because the TTB was eating tires up like crazy.
I do have a spare housing it turns out, my two bolts are tight and hanging on for dear life. I'll likely weld the broken one for now and put a truetrac in the other front housing, then swap it over.
Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 241
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but when i did the the truck, i went to change the fluids when i hit 100k, in the front diff. i only pulled out about 1/2 quart (instead of the 2 that i should have) so maybe that help a little...but the rear diff. and transfer case were good.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 338
Likes: 2
From: Northern MA
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 338
Likes: 2
From: Northern MA
Luckily I had a 5,000,000 ton hydraulic press and a lot of cutting torch time to reheat and reshape the housing after a lot of prep work.
A few more passes with the wire wheel before grabbing a fistful of 7018 rods, doing a bit of preheat/postheat to keep things from cracking.
Weld came out decent, heat was a little bit too high so I'd have to pause and clean the weld up before starting again, everything looks solid now though.
A few more passes with the wire wheel before grabbing a fistful of 7018 rods, doing a bit of preheat/postheat to keep things from cracking.
Weld came out decent, heat was a little bit too high so I'd have to pause and clean the weld up before starting again, everything looks solid now though.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 338
Likes: 2
From: Northern MA
As one of the earlier posters noted, its caused when the washers under the two bolts that secure into the diff carrier rust away and dissapear, leaving a few mm of play in the formed steel outer housing, then the cracks start. You can see in the pic the gap between the bolt head and the housing. Upper bolt is the same and there is the main stress crack going front to back and several lateral cracks, one short one hilited with a lame oval and another that runs all the way along the top rear corner under the spring.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Yes that is exactly what happen to mine, cracked in exactly the same places.
I didn't weld mine, could have but found a replacement arm including the pig with the same gearing for 200 bucks. Not worth saving that cracked arm for that and I needed the pig. Axle shaft tore up the seal/carrier area toward the end, just before it slid out dropping it to the ground. It had been caring the load for an hour or so at that point.
I didn't disasemble the right side to do it. Slid left side pig/arm assembly off the right side outer axle shaft at the slip joint, slid the replacement assembly on with it in place.
Couple new u bolts and a new center U joint (very easy to do while it's laying on the tail gate!) about an hour and a half it was ready to get back out plow snow again.
I didn't weld mine, could have but found a replacement arm including the pig with the same gearing for 200 bucks. Not worth saving that cracked arm for that and I needed the pig. Axle shaft tore up the seal/carrier area toward the end, just before it slid out dropping it to the ground. It had been caring the load for an hour or so at that point.
I didn't disasemble the right side to do it. Slid left side pig/arm assembly off the right side outer axle shaft at the slip joint, slid the replacement assembly on with it in place.
Couple new u bolts and a new center U joint (very easy to do while it's laying on the tail gate!) about an hour and a half it was ready to get back out plow snow again.