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3.0 CRAP heat

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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 07:25 PM
  #1  
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kevin206
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3.0 CRAP heat

I have a 93 with the 3.0. Heat has NEVER been any good. I've changed thermostats a few times, but it always seems to overcool, even with cardboard in front of the radiator. I have to flush the heater core a couple of times a year and that mostly helps, but It's still not great heat. Right now the heater hose from the Thermostat housing area gets really hot and the other stays cool.

Does it matter which way the hoses are hooked to the core? Can I clean the core while its still in the van? Am I overlooking some obvious cause to the bad heat?

Also, the heater blower in my aerostar AND my f150 blows slower than I think it should. Is this common?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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If one heater hose is hot and the other is not, I'd say you don't have any flow through the heater core. I don't know about the 93 but I'm pretty sure the 94 and newer vans have a valve that prevents coolant flow when you are in A/C mode.

Have you traced the hose to verify it goes directly to the firewall and connects to the heater core and back?

If you have the valve, it could be broken/stuck. The valve is vacuum driven. When you move from A/C or off to Heat, vacuum should be routed to the valve via a small hose.

It could also be a plugged heater core.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 03:35 AM
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block the valve open if it has one
pull both heater hoses off on the engine end.
blow thru with garden hose turned on only 1/3.
do you have good flow with no backpressure?

can also be a broken blend door or the vacuum actuator for it is not working.
will mix in too much outside cold air. ran by the heat temp dial.

heater motor is controlled by 3 step resistor. can also be plugged air inlet to heater preventing max air flow.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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Whoa! lots of stuff to take in. I found a few things. The hoses have been cut and spliced a few times. I disconnected them at a splice and did by usual reverse flush. A bit of backpressure, then POP. Out comes some nasty looking water and then the flow was good both directions. I've had this van loaned out for months so I decided to check fluids. Took TWO GALLONS of antifreeze! It's a warm day out, so it's blowing nice warm air. Another thing that I have never noticed. I was under the hood. The heater blower is in some sort of housing. The housing top connects under the wiper area and there is a thick foam gasket. Well, the gasket is half gone! Is this where the fresh air should come in?

Now where do I look for this heat valve? I don't think it has one. Nothing seems to be inline except for the splice connectors. And tell me more about this blend door and its actuator. How do I get to the blend door? Lots of pens, pencils, and crayons were on the dash when I bought it.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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The valve is mounted on the inside of the left fender near where the heater hoses go through the fire wall. If the hose goes from the engine all the way to the firewall then it doesn't have one.

On my first Aerostar (91) you tool off the top of the dash to get to the cable that moved the blend door. I remember you could get at the door itself from underneath when you open it up to replace the heater core.

I didn't have to work on either problem in my 94 and 96. I don't have one anymore so I have to rely on my memory.

After unplugging the heater core, are both hoses getting hot?
 
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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 12:30 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by tom_foreman
After unplugging the heater core, are both hoses getting hot?
Both are hot, but...the hose that was hot is so hot I can't hold it. The hose that was cool is cooler than the hot hose. I can hold it for about 2 seconds.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 08:59 AM
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Another update.
I don't have that valve in the heater hoses. On the right side of the heater box under the hood, right at the firewall and under the cowl, There is a vac assisted can. I tried to move it manually and there is resistance. Also with some of that foam rotted away, I can stick my hand in that area and feel air being sucked in. If I hold my hand there and try to move that vac can linkage, I can feel a slight change.
So...I guess when I'm running down the road at 60MPH and it's 40 degrees outside, the outside air is flooding my cabin and the heater core just can't make up the difference. I guess a dash is coming off!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 10:56 AM
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diagram of the heater

sign into autozone, believe they also have info on the Aero heater under service info

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...201163&width=0


 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by kevin206
Another update.
I don't have that valve in the heater hoses. On the right side of the heater box under the hood, right at the firewall and under the cowl, There is a vac assisted can. I tried to move it manually and there is resistance. Also with some of that foam rotted away, I can stick my hand in that area and feel air being sucked in. If I hold my hand there and try to move that vac can linkage, I can feel a slight change.
So...I guess when I'm running down the road at 60MPH and it's 40 degrees outside, the outside air is flooding my cabin and the heater core just can't make up the difference. I guess a dash is coming off!
I used to have a '93 3.0L. It does not have a heater valve that later models do.

As for the heater hoses, it must be connected correctly with the inlet to the heater core being the lower one on the core. Otherwise, you'll have air trapped in the heater core and it won't work too well.
 
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