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I have a problem with the hubs on my 1982 F150. I replaced the stock hubs with Warn lockouts about 3 months ago and my right hub went bad. I took it to a garage to have it checked out and they put in new hubs. The hubs have been in for about 3 weeks and now I have the same problem with these hubs. What could be causing the hubs to go bad?
Did you keep the set that the shop pulled out? (You should always take your old parts, for LOTS of reasons.) They probably weren't bad, but the shop had no more idea than you and sold you some new parts. (Just my guess.)
You need to describe IN DETAIL exactly what is or isn't happening to make you think they're bad, and under EXACTLY what circumstances it occurs.
A Haynes manual will help you diagnose it faster, since you won't have to wait for a response, and it covers almost everything on the truck.
What I noticed is that when I make a sharp turn to the right I hear grinding. I thought that the ball joints were shot because the indicators are showing so I took it in to have them changed and the shop pulled the hubs off to get to the ball joints and found the hubs destroyed.
They put the new hubs on and I didn't hear the grinding again until now.
They asked if I wanted to keep the old hubs but at the time I didn't think that I would because they replaced them, but I will keep this set. Its going back into the shop.
I just wanted to know if anyone has had this problem before and what the cause was.
Don't take it to a shop - it's an easy job that only takes ~1hr even for a beginner. There are plenty of people on this BBS who can attest to that. Look thru these pics and this site - the only tools you'll need are a hex key, a hooked dental-type pick, and a set of snap-ring pliers. The hub locks should cost $60-80 for a pair of lifetime Warns or MileMarkers.
If the hubs turn out to be shot again, I suspect your wheel bearings &/or spindle bearings are bad, which means you'll also need a 4-prong bearing nut socket, some ratchets, a ball-peen hammer, a long drift, a grease gun & a bearing packer, and new seals & bearings. All the parts should be about $60 and the tools (if you have to buy all of them) should be less than $150 for some nice ones.
That may be a few bucks more than the shop charges, but when you're done, you'll HAVE all those tools AND the knowledge to diagnose & repair it almost free next time. A $12 Haynes manual is also a wise investment.
So you think the wheel bearings &/or spindle bearings are bad. Then that wont be to bad. I got all the tools to change the bearings. I would have thought the the garage would have known to check them. THANKS STEVE 83.