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I have opted to fab a trans crossmember for my 73 highboy. I'm putting in a 79 trans-transfer case combination.
Anyone fabbed one up that they could share a pic???
I keep asking...hopeful that someone has previous experience with this. Last try or I'm going to wing it.
I can't thank you enough for throwing acouple of pics up. Looks like a 2wd frame. Do you have any issues without the other missing crossmembers or are you going to add more?
Wondering what the specs are on the tubing?
I can't thank you enough for throwing a couple of pics up. Looks like a 2wd frame. Do you have any issues without the other missing crossmembers or are you going to add more?
Wondering what the specs are on the tubing?
Truck is a '74 Crew Cab F-250 4wd. Not sure why it looks like a 2wd frame, but it's not...
Not sure on issues with missing cross members yet as the truck isn't done - but I don't think I will.
Specs on the materials for the x-member are: 1.5" x .120 wall tubing and then 11 ga cold rolled plate.
Sorry, when I looked at your build thread I thought it was a 2wd with that big dip in the front one. Which in turn made me think you had removed the crossmember under the trans.
Also in your build thread, I noticed the inclinometer on your engine. Is 5 degrees normal. Reason I ask is that I'm trying to pull off the cm build without installing cab. I would like to build without having to shim to get it to it's final height.
I have opted to fab a trans crossmember for my 73 highboy. I'm putting in a 79 trans-transfer case combination.
Anyone fabbed one up that they could share a pic???
I keep asking...hopeful that someone has previous experience with this. Last try or I'm going to wing it.
You'll be using a high pinion axle too, right? Otherwise you're looking for trouble.
Sorry, when I looked at your build thread I thought it was a 2wd with that big dip in the front one. Which in turn made me think you had removed the crossmember under the trans.
Also in your build thread, I noticed the inclinometer on your engine. Is 5 degrees normal. Reason I ask is that I'm trying to pull off the cm build without installing cab. I would like to build without having to shim to get it to it's final height.
I've got 2 builds going on. Both are '74's. 1 is a 2wd and one a 4wd = easy to confuse.
5* is normal for me and seems about like what stock is in a few things I have looked at.
Thanks for the info. Now one more question...does the round tubing have that much more strength over square or rectangle tubing. I have plenty of that in stock and obviously would like to use what I have. I do have some rather thick round stainless but have never tried to weld that with my mig before.
Yes, it's a D60 HP.
There are arguments either way but what you need to keep in mind is the strength needed for the application. Tube is generally considered to be weaker laterally because there are no high stress points to reinforce the tube. Where in square tube the corner acts like a mini brace. Really though using a quality steel and the length of tube required for a cross-member will not matter as much since lateral decreases with length of the object.
This is just me but I can't weld for crap on round tube so I would go with square or rectangle but that is just lack of skill on my part.
Also looking back at those beautiful cross-members above You can see they will be more structurally sound because of the braces and the center mounts.
To build on what was posted above - square tube is stronger in certain planes, while round tube is the same strength in all due to it's shape. If square tube takes a load from an angle it can trapezoid in shape.
So yeah, the answer is yes AND no. Square tube is stronger than round in certain planes and weaker in other.
So making cross members like this square or rectangular tube will be fine. Honestly the strength is typically in the design. I've seen stuff made from 4130 chromolly that was weaker than stuff made from HREW 1018 mild steel due to crappy design on the chromo part...
Here is what I built to mount the NV4500 behind my 351W. I sandwiched the frame to give some added support. I used 2x3x3/16 rect tubing with some 1/4 angle iron for the ends and c-channel for the trans mount. Just made the lower section first, mocked up the motor and trans, set the angle and made a cardboard template to cut the c-channel. Bolted it up to the trans, tacked it up, removed the whole thing and mig welded it up. Used .035 wire.
Thanks for the responses guys. I'm going to mock up the engine and trans tomorrow. Then I'm going to check and see if I can replace the CM that went beneath the trans pan. If not I'm thinking I could add some bracing to the new CM going to the top of the frame also to help out with the loss of strength to the frame.
I'll post a pic as I go along.
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