Hello all, New to FT but finding all kinds of info as i browse.
I tested all the usual for my windows, radio, auto headlamps, gages, dome, ect.. no power, no open fuses. I searched and found posts that all point to the gem module. Does my '02 F250 superduty have a gem module? there doesn't seem to be anything screwed to the fuse block, is it remote mounted? and also, i don't seem to have an underhood fuse block.. there are 2 relay blacks, each have 2 relays, totaling 4 relays.
Any help would be awesome!!

 

Yes you have a GEM. It's in this diagram.
AutoZone.com Repair Guide Image)

 

Any idea where it's located in the truck?

 

Sorry, I am getting conflicting information. I might have looked at the wrong year in the above post. I am home now looking at the dvd, and it doesn't show a GEM for your year. You might want to go to autozone's site, register and then plug in your truck, go to vehicle repair, and then click on wiring diagrams. They have component location views and pretty good diagrams for your year, and you can hunt around in there, especially if you have a fast internet connection.

 

Called ford dealer, they say its part of the cluster. Anyone know if I can jy this?

 

You have a newer truck so you are kind of stuck. They don't run wires around for everything like they used to. They now run the wires to a module. There are several modules throughout the truck. All the modules communicate on a network. They have a body module, a microprocessor in the cluster, the engine computer, the abs computer, the 4x4 computer, etc, they all are tied together on this network, and the Ford dealer has a gizmo that can get on the network and talk to all this stuff. I don't know if the aftermarket people have come out with a scanner that can talk on the network or not.

 

Makes sence.. called a diff ford dealer, they insist its part of the fuse block under the dash.. I already have it hanging, didn't notice anything special, guess I'll look at it when I get home..

 

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Hey guy's, still workin on this issue, it's 30 degrees out so i havn't spent alot of tim on it, so i invested in a power probe.. awesome.. I found out the black and green wire coming out of the dash fuse panel is powerless, if i induce voltage. everything works.. so the million dollar question.. is my fuse block bad? or is there something else i'm needing to look for. autozones manuals suck.. most dont have wire color, or the pics arent available for connector end views.. i took a few pics, maybe it'll help..

 

According to Autozone's diagrams(I picked a diesel pickup) there is a black/lightgreen originating from the ignition switch in this diagram. It leaves on "D"
AutoZone.com Repair Guide Image)

It comes in on "D" in this diagram.
AutoZone.com Repair Guide Image)

"D" feeds fuse 2.8, and I am not sure but it might feed fuse 2.11 in this diagram.
AutoZone.com Repair Guide Image)

Here's the headlight switch that has your autolamps feed in it.
AutoZone.com Repair Guide Image)

 

I looked at those, found out its fuse 35, connector b270c. I think the fuse box is shorted or has badd tension on the fuse possibly.. gettin a price on the fuse block tomorrow I guess.. thanks for the info though. Please keep it comming. It's appreciated.

 

You might want to check the socket and see if the terminals are spread. You could also possible take some needle nose and twist the fuse prongs a little bit so it fits tighter if that's the problem.

I don't know if you have ever heard of a fuse tap, but many times I recommend these to get power out of the fuse box to run aux equipment. You could possibly use one of these to "patch" your problem. coming off the offending fuse with the tap, running a wire off the tap and then hook it to the wire that is dead. Just make sure you put the tap on the output of the fuse.

 

As a temporary fix I'm doing something similar. I have a breaker that's the same amps as the fuse, I have it spliced from the wire to the power supply for the fuse block. I removed the fuse for now. Everything is working so far, I'm going to drive it like this for a month and see if the breaker Pops at all. If it doesn't I will replace the fuse panel, if it does I know I have a short and need to address that before I replace the panel. I'll keep ya posted since it seems I'm the first one to have this issue on this yr make mdl truck.
Thanks for the help guys!

 

How you make out with your fix? I have the same problem going on. I did the jumper wire with a 10amp fuse and it has popped 7 of them. One of them lasted long enough to get the windows up but it start to melt the fuse and wire started to smoke. So I dont know if the fuse is to small or what, but after the smoke I desided not to go digger yet.
HELP ANYONE???????????????????

 

You obviously have a wiring problem. He had a power problem and his circuit was dead. You have power but keep blowing the fuse correct? You will have to find out what this fuse feeds in your truck, and then inspect the wiring and components to try and find the problem.

 

I had learned about how to bypass the #35 witch is the BLK/LG wire out of the back of the fuse box. The fuse is good in the fuse box, all the fuses are good in the box. The fuse that kept blowing is the one I have in the jumper wire. It did make everything start to work again but only for a second ten most of the time they blow. The one time in didn't is when I got the windows up, but fuse started to melt and wire start to smoke. I pulled the melting fuse out of the jumper wire and now it just pops evrytime. The BLK/LG wire goes to the gauge cluster and powers some relay/mem-battery or something. I was told I need a new cluster. Im lost