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I'm about ready to fire up my rebuilt 5.0L tomorrow. I tried to empty stale fuel from the front tank by disconnecting the fuel line prior to the filter. I assumed since the pumps couldn't build pressure that they would continue to run. I guess not, as they cycle on for a couple seconds and shut off. What do I need to do to make this work? Also how do I make sure the fuel lines are fully primed before cranking? I don't want to crank any longer than necessary before start-up on this new engine.
I've never tried this, but I suppose that you could just jump the fuel pump relay and make it run as long as you want. My relay stuck one day and the pump just sat there and ran until I unstuck the relay.
I have emptied a few tanks, here is the easiest way. Go get a fuel pump for a small import car. Ones for Volkswagons work fine. Run a small hose (3/8 or smaller) directly into the tank from where the filler hose neck attaches.
battery
wires
switch
wires
fuel pump
hoses
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Make sure the hoses are long enough to remove the pump from the gas tank and gas can area. Use the switch to avoid creating sparks at the battery, gas can, gas tank. Have a 10 bc fire extinguisher handy. It might take 20 minutes to empty the tank, do not walk away and leave it running. Things can go wrong and happen fast with open tanks and cans.
On the advise of Steve83 I jumpered the tan/green wire contained in the self-test termination to ground. This bypasses the PIP sensor in the dist. and fools the computer into thinking the engine is running thus keeping the fuel pump relay circuit closed. The pumps continued to run. I disconnected prior to the fuel filter and emptied the tank. I also used this approach to purge the fuel rail prior to rebuild start-up. Didn't have to wait or worry about fuel being there for that crucial break-in.
craterjoe, on my 89 f150 5.0L it is located in the engine compartment on top of the driver's side wheel well. All the EEC connectors are there as well. The female receptacles are stored in a plastic retainer. The plug that you want is embossed with something like, "self test." Pull this out of the storage recept. Actually you'll end up with two plugs. One is a single plug and the other has like four or five terminals. On my outfit (and I verified the right wire with the schematics out of a Chilton) you jumpered the tan/green-stripe wire contained in the multi terminal plug to a ground. Then go in and turn the ignition key to on (the engine does NOT need to be running). The pumps will continue to run. The pump in the selected tank, if you have dual tanks, will run. The non-selected tank will not. I'm not sure of your application, but be sure to verify the correct wire with a schematic out of Haynes or Chilton. Color coding may be different for different years. Also verify, with the schematic, whether to ground or power-up that terminal. If you don't have a Chiltons/Haynes, let me know what app. you have and I'll check in my book. (87-95 F-150).
Randy
Last edited by PigFarmer; Mar 1, 2003 at 10:10 PM.
I had to empty my tank since it was full when my pump went out, and I personally didn't have any problems with just siphoning it manually into gas tanks on the ground. It did take a little while but it is understandable with that big of tank. I wouldn't suggest using the existing fuel pump on your bronco to do the work, since I guess having it in gas is what cools it and it will overheat and go out if you runk it empty to much. That is actually why mine needed replace.They say you should atleast keep a 1/4 of a tank in it.
I've heard that a lot, but I've run mine dry more times than I can count. And I mean BONE dry - like: it stalls on the interstate, and I keep nursing it along for another 3 miles before getting onto a surface street, then I nurse it along until it's idling in gear at ~400RPM, then I drive on the starter for the last few feet up to the pump.
I've done that twice in one day.
Towing a trailer.
It doesn't seem to have hurt the pump yet, and I've been doing it occasionally when I'm too lazy or busy to refill for the past 4 years.
I don't care. It only takes a second to change it, and Advance is paying for all of them that I can burn up. Since I can roll-start the truck in a few feet (gotta love EFI!), it doesn't matter where it konks out.
Steve83, LMAO. I thought I was the only one who did that. The gauge in my Ranger has never worked right in 16 years, so I get by using the trip odometer. Ran it dry more times than I care to remember. I carry a gas can just for that reason.
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