Its time to replace the clutch on my 1980 F250 4X4 351M and I'm thinking it might be easier to remove the engine instead of going thru the trans and transfer case. Removing the engine would also allow me to fix the leaking pan and rear main seal. Is this a good idea or not? I'll be working in the driveway, no lift of trans jack. I just got a cherry picker type of engine hoise and want to try it out.....On the other hand I'm not sure if I want to mess with the exhause bolts to get the engine out, its 20+ years old with rust and grime.

 

It may be a little easier to remove the engine rather than dropping the transmission. Especially because there is not an excess of electrical garbage in that year truck yet. It would be an advantage to pull it and get your oil leak fixed at the same time. But you are worried about the exhaust bolts. I guess all you can do is tear into it and see what happens. You may be able to unobolt the manifolds from the engine, pull the engine and then while the engine is out of the way throw some heat on the manifold studs to see if you can get the manifolds seperated from the exhaust. The hardest part about doing a clutch this way is getting the engine planted back in and everything aligned right. But it may be easier than trying to align a transmission while trying to move it upwards.

 

I had to replace the clutch twice in my Chevy. The first time I fought the tranny laying on cold concrete, the second time, I pulled the engine because I had a busted bolt in the head and I didn't want to remove the head.

Here is the skinny on my experiences.....

Much easier to work on collector bolts with engine out, unbolt the exhaust manifolds and they should fall to the side.

Do you have ac, that is about the only thing I would worry about because the condensor probably has to come out.

You have to take off the hood, no biggy, just mark the hinges and the hood so that when you put it back on, you know where it is supposed to be.

It is easier to stab and engine with a cherry picker than it is to stab a tranny on your back without the right jacks. You'll have to support the front of the tranny when pulling and stabbing the engine.

It took me half of the time doing it this way (minus maintenace on the block, paint, cleaning, etc) than by dropping the tranny.

Make sure that you mark your plugs in some way. I used duct tape and marked the sensor with a number or letter and the plug the same way. Granted, plugs only go in one spot, but it makes it easier to find where they go.

I did the pulling and stabbing solo with a chain hoist in my garage and have installed motors with a cherry picker. Its easier for me because it puts the work load in a more manageable position since your not fighting gravity too.

In a rush, I bet I could pull a motor (once familiar with the set up), put a new clutch in it, and drop it back in in less than 8 hours by myself. Noway I could drop a tranny to do the same job in that amount of time.

Just my 2cents

 

You don't have to drop the tranny to replace a clutch.

Disconnect the driveline, disconnect the linkage, remove the starter, unbolt the tranny and slide it back and block it there or some good old fashioned bailing wire. replace the clutch, put it back together. 3 hour job. It does help to have a friend help you.
I've done an 84 F150 and a 65 fastback this way.

I'm the pit crew for a friend of mine that runs a modified B stock car on a 1/4 mile dirt track and if we need to do tranny work we just drop the tranny instead of pulling the whole engine.

 

He's talking about a 4X4 here. I would pull the engine and fix the leak at the same time.

 

OK. I've never done a 4X4. Is it that much different?

 

Yes. You have to worry about the transfer case and transmission and that combo starts to get a little heavy to just slide back. I did a clutch in my 78 by dropping the tranny. Then I did another when I swapped engines. Pulling the engine is way easier, but this also depends on the truck. If it were a newer truck it is probably easier to just drop everything rather than worrying about all the elecrical and emmisions stuff that goes with pulling the engine.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like I'll remove the engine to get to the clutch. No A/C to mess with so I think it will be easier. I've been wanting to fix the leaks for a while, not to mention that the leaky rear main seal probably contributed to the clutch going away. I'll probably replace a few other things like timing chain/gears, degrease and paint it too. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get into it. Thanks again, this is a great site and I've been away from it for too long.

 

rent a transmission jack, pull out the tranny and transfer case. as mentioned above, you can leave it inder truck and roll it out of way.
Once they are out of way, you can fix oil leaks.
If you don"t want to rent jack, pull transfer case off first, which lightens work and also keeps unit from rotating from weight of t-case.

 

When I replaced the throw-out bearing I didn't have to "drop" anything. I took off the starter, disconnected both driveshafts, and then unbolted the tranny from the engine. I used regular floor jacks to support everything, but you could pretty much use anything to support them. I then removed all the bolts on the crossmember and just slid the crossmember towards the back of the truck with the tranmission and transfer case. Even though I only replaced the throw-out beraing I think there would be plenty of room to do a clutch. I think the whole job was only a little over an hour, but I had two people helping. This is also assuming that an F-250 has a similar setup as an '83 Bronco. I am guessing that it does. I may be wrong.