I have a 1999 SD F250 with a 5.4L. I found a guy who is selling a low miles 2003 5.4 from a 250. He says its the "L" motor (pulled from VIN), and mine is an "L" motor as well.

The 2003 is the PI motor and mine is not. Will this motor bolt into my truck if I get the intake and all? Where the 5.4 motors in 2003 still 2 valve in the SuperDuties or where they 3 valve at this point? If its 3 valve will it still bolt in?

 

My 03 5.4 is a 2v. I believe 3v started in 2004

 

The motor is a 2V... 2005 started 3v.. Or some one put a 2v in my 2004 lol

 

ok. Anyone every pulled a 5.4 on a 250 SD? Any tips, tricks or pointers?

 

It seems to be that it won't be that hard to pull the motor out of this truck. There seems to be plenty of room all the way around the motor to get my hands and tools in and out to detatch the motor from the trans, remove the exhaust. The harness almost looks like I can just leave it right on the motor and disconnect it at a few main disconnects. If I pull the grill, rad, condensor, trans/steering coolers plus the upper crossmember for the rad support I will have a damn near straight shot out with the motor. The motor mount bolts to the frame crossmember with a 4 nuts...all of which I can get to no problem. The studs left once the nuts are removed are only about 1 1/4" long...meaning it looks like I only have to lift the motor 1 1/4" before I can start to pull it forward. If I pull the intake off it seems as tho I have PLENTY of clearance to the cowl and engine....am I missing something? I hear some people have a hard time removing motors in the SD trucks? Is that only for the larger V10 and PowerStroke?

 

Just dropped off a running, but high mileage 5.4 at the machine shop. He is going to rebuild the motor and hand me a long block back. For $2000 I get all the machining and a full on rebuild with new everything except for heads, cam, crank and block. 2-3 weeks I will get the motor back...unless the holidays screw things up. Then its time for swap o rama....gonna be a cold one. I would appreciate any heads up any can offer as I would like to get this over and done with as fast as i can...I hate being cold.

 

Yes you need to pull the intake manifold off, and it will still be tight because of the oil pan. You're on the right track removing everything infront of the engine. I did the same swap with a 2004 motor. You'll need heater hoses for a PI engine, my 8-groove pullies wouldn't work on the new timing cover so had to swap the old one on, check yours out before they put it together, and take a million pictures.

 

I am more or less doing the same thing with a F150, you'll need to use the '99 harness and swap your '99 knock sensor to the new engine, they have a different plug on the PI engines. Sounds like yours is out but I pulled mine without removing the front of the truck, just the radiator and the clutch fan and had enough room but the torque converter has to be unbolted to have enough room, at least in a half ton. I am going to run a 6 rib blet with a new 6 rib tensioner and idlers and the only 8 rib stuff will be the AC. PS and Alt., hopefully the 6 rib belt will just sit to the back or front on the 8 rib pullies.

Mine is out and I am just waiting on some new sensors and other stuff to put on the new engine before I put it in. I am replacing everything I can sensors, TC, plugs, etc etc.

 

I need to pull the front all off b/c the hoist won't lift the motor high enough to clear the rad support.

 

Has anyone used one of the lifting bars from Ford? I would buy it...but not for $300.





I am either going to create one by useing two plates welded to heavy angle iron. The plates mount to the holes under the intake at the front and rear of the block ...just like the ford lifting bar...

or I will do something like shown in Figure 4
http://www.stangnet.com/images/stori...s/01-21-10.pdf

And when you say it gets tight b/c of the oil pan what exactly is tight? Are the valve covers still on the motor at this time? Is there very little clearance between them and the cowl in order to get the motor high enough? Did you removed the valve covers to make more room? Was it still tight? Was it a close fit getting the motor out, but it cleared just fine or did you have the muscle it around to contort the motor a certain way to get it to clear everything?

I will try and get photos and get more information about this when I do mine, but I really would like all the info I can get now, again I really hate working in the cold.

 

The cowl wasn't so much of an issue, it was the transmission hitting the lip where the floor joins to the firewall before the oil pan was high enough to clear the crossmember. We're talking an 8th of an inch, but it was enough to stop it from coming out. At that point I just took off the oil pan. When it was out I bent that lip up against the floor a little bit for clearance. The new engine went in with valve covers on. I used the shortest amount of chain i could between one of the transmission bolt holes and one of the bolt holes diagonaly across on the front, this let me get the arm of the hoist under the cowl with the engine lifted. A 2x4 wedged in there provided leverage to tilt the motor as needed to line up with the trans. I did learn very quickly that if you do it just with the hook and a chain, get some bolts into that chain on either side of the hook so it can't slip.

 

Forgot to add, this was with a manual transmission, it might not be an issue with an auto. Everything I found before taking the engine out told me that with a stick, the trans has to be removed first.

 

I just used a $50 engine leveller to lift the engine, with the intake removed there are 3 holes at the front and you can use the rear tranny mounting holes.

 

I have an engine leveler for my hoist. I just hear clearance is tight and an leveler adds a decent about of "height" to the lift. I have an auto, so I am pretty sure I just need to unbolt the flex plate from the trans and away i go. I don't have an imput shaft to line up on the way back in. Galaxie, what all did you remove when you pulled your motor? Just the intake, attached the leveler and out she came?

 

Removed the intake, before that the radiator came out--I already have Efans so the clutch fan and shroud were already gone. Unbolted the exhaust manifolds right where they bolt to the cats. The engine mounts were a bit of a PITA to get to the bolts. The P. side I removed the actual bolt that connects the two halves. The D. side I could get that bolt out so I had to unbolt the mount from the engine with the 3 bolts. There is an access hole on the D. side, you pull the rubber plug out and can rotate the engine to unbolt the torque converter, that was actually some of the easiest part of the removal. Once that is done and the starter and transmission bolts are removed you only have to pull the engine forward an inch or so then it can start coming up. You need two people, one to to lift and the other to watch and hold the engine from hitting anything important.

Some other things needing removed are the AC compressor, 3 bolts and lay it to the side and the PS pump you can leave on the engine and just unhook the lines. Took me about 15 hours of removing things, putting them in zip lock bags and marking them. I wasn't in a big hurry, others claim it can be done in a weekend with two people--I believe that is possible.

I stocked up on 8,10,12 and 13mm sockets of every flavor a set of swivel sockets are really nice in a few instances as are every extension made up to 12".