I trim trees for a living, which introduces me to a whole plethora of people. One homeowner i met the other day seemed very interested in what we were doing. I started talkin to him, and as his neighbor pulled his '63 corvette out of the garage, I told him i liked it. He smiled as he showed me his cobra replica sittin in the garage. we got to talkin about the engine, and he told me he owned an engine shop. The 400 in my truck has runnin issues, and the compression sucks, so I asked him what he would get to re-build it. He told me I wouldn't have more than $2100 into a total rebuild, including punching it out 30 over, decking the block and shaving the heads. I looked thru summit and jegs, and on paper, racked up about $3000 in parts alone. He told me that he don't let an engine leave his shop unless he would run it in his own vehicle. His last sentence to me made me smile......"And I bleed blue, so rest assured it's gonna be done right!"

 

Well it all depends on what you want 2100 sounds like a stock rebuild and a little high. A stock rebuild with OE style parts should be about half that price and shaving the heads is not needed because then the intake will not fit right and that will have to be modified.

About 460.00 for the rebuild basics from summit

CCA-2121 43.95 Timing chain roller style
FEM-MKP624P-411 307.99 Rebuild kit with pistons
SUM-K5200 107.95 Camshaft with lifters

 

Well crap....really? Didn't even think about it.....sounds right.

The other problem I have is a lack of rebuilding tools. I have basic tools, but nothing special. And I have never done it before.

 

Well its a basic engine basic tools are needed. You can leave the valve job to the shop and do the rest yourself and save on assembly costs. Or get a reman with a good warranty and just swap it out.

 

Ford 400 Engine (V8, 400 cid, 6.6L) with a really good 7 year warranty.

 

You can buy a reman from any parts house that will be close enough and probably last the average guy a good long while. There is however, a big difference in that engine versus an engine that is properly blueprinted and overseen by someone who gives a ****. The average guy that knows little about engines assumes that a rebuild is a rebuild. Then there are those of us that have a passion for the hobby and obsess over the smallest detail. Ask the guy to see his mics. If he has a good Mitutoyo or Starret set, he might be for real. I occasionally offer to build engines for enthusiasts that I meet in my day to day life. Not because I get rich off of it, but because I enjoy the process. You may have found a similar fellow that is willing to extend a hand in your direction.

 

There is a lot to rebuilding an engine. What all was included in his price?

turn the crank
resize rods X8
balance
cook the block
bore .030 X8
deck the block
deck the heads
valve job
If you really want to make power he would 0 deck the block and mill the heads and intake to achieve optimum compression.


then all the parts such as valves, springs, lifters, cam, balancer, etc.

 

I dont know what all is included in the price, as i wont have $2000 till tax time. I plan on doing my research on this company and what all goes into the rebuild.

 

A basic stock rebuild around here for most engines is $900-1200.

Josh

 

Wait wait wait now hold on. First of all 2100$, you drop off your engine to picking it up and plopping it in, is dead on for a stock rebuild. I just went through this 3 months ago with my 400, and if anyone would like to see my build sheet I have it, prices and vendors on everything (after months of research to lower costs by the cent if possible). My project came out to around 2600$, with some go fast parts, and a 150$ donor engine for a good crank and heads.

Shaving the heads up to about 25/1000's will not cause the intake to be misaligned, but a set of flat top TMeyer pistons will up your compression a heck of alot more than a close shave anyway, and will cost only dollars more than new stock pistons and shaving.

As for a reman. long block, that is a point, up to a point. It was an option that really tugged at me. In my opinion though, and from the research I've done, at MOST, a good longblock will last as long as a factory engine, a skillful rebuild can last much longer. Also, keep in mind the little things. A long block needs an intake (you could use your old one, but are you not going to slap a 4 barrel on that new engine you just shelled out for?), and you will kick yourself if you don't spend the minimal time and money to put at least a decent cam in it, and in the end, you don't know what you're getting.

A rebuild entails a TON of things that you would never think of beforehand, things like magnafluxing all cast parts for cracks, balancing the engine, pressing in wrist pins, stuff like that, and if your 2100$ quote includes those things, and you look into this guy, and he is good, then you would do well to take that offer (and I'd suggest you put a couple hundred more in for some flat tops). That 460$ worth of Summit stuff needs at least 1200$ of machine work added to it. A rebuild is not a rebuild, you could literally just re-build your engine in a weekend if you wanted to, new bearings, pistonr rings, stuff like that, for about 400$, but it wouldn't extend the life much, and on the other side you could start with your block, and build a 10,000$ 600 hp project. You need to get a detailed list of everything this guy will do, but if it really is a complete rebuild, 2100$ is right on, and if he's someone you can trust, that's worth even more.

AleX

 

You got ripped off then... a basic rebuild is cheap.

I will add that taking in a complete, assembled engine is pretty much retarded. You're paying a shop $85+ an hour labor to take apart an engine you could do yourself for just a little bit of time and greasy hands? Dumb. Plus, you might learn a thing or two if it's the first time doing it.

And no need to have a shop completely assemble as engine either. I can see having them assemble the rotating assembly, but no need to pay a shop labor rates to install the top end.

Don't add in moron rates to a basic rebuild. Because that is what it is, a basic rebuild. Not, hey I don't have the IQ to rebuild my engine to save a grand.

Josh

 

I'm hoping none of that was directed at me.....

First of all, you gotta watch what you say on the internet, when it comes to words like moron and retarded. And what you imply: I loooved tearing down my engine, myself, and my transmission, and every other part of my truck, and I am the epitomy of work an hour to save a dollar, because I can't see spending aaanything to have someone else do something I enjoy and can learn from. I was speaking from the perspective of not knowing what, if any, technical experience the OP had, and using that to gauge how much work he'd have to have done.

Second, something I forgot to add, is that skilled labor rates vary widely across the country, and I am in an expensive area, which upped my machine shope costs.

Third though, if I got ripped of, that stinks (I actually did not follow through with the rebuild, so, "if I was going to get ripped off") but I'm not just spouting off here (cost summary to follow), and I did months of research and compared several shops that had been recommended to me from long time professional mechanics.

Cleaning measuring and magging block 130$
Donor engine 150$
Cleaning and magging 2 heads 90$ (45$ more for each new head you try)
Clean check and turn crank 150$
Gasket and seal kit, one step above stock, 75$
All bearings, including cam, filters, spark plugs, thermostat, piston rings, and new temp and pres. gauge, and rod nuts, 225$
Bore 200$
Deck 50$
Line hone mains 75$
Milling heads 95$
Valve Job 130$
Valve guides 192$
Pressing off and on cam bearings freeze plugs and wrist pins, 20$
Recond. rods 130$
Balancing 350$
Pistons 100-250$
Oil pump 40$
Valves 75$

Total of 2277$ with 100$ pistons. If your valves are usable, you don't mill/shave the heads, and your crank and heads are all usable, you save about 320$, but your valves are not likely to be usable at the very least, puting you at a grand total of about 2050$ for stock stock stock (intake, cam, exhaust, everything), if all is well, and goes well.

Keep in mind that unless the person knows them well, an old, not commonly rebuilt engine like a 400 will cost some extra in labor, there is alot of research that goes in on the part of the machinist to do it right.

If labor in you area is significantly cheaper, and you can get your parts for a ton less, I'd like to know, but from my experience, 2100$ is on.

AleX

 

You can get re-manned engines for well under 2 grand, basic rebuild should have come out well under $1400.

A good shop also deducts a few things too, like discounting cleaning if you have the full rebuild done etc.

Josh

 

Nah I know that about the reman long blocks, that was one of the reasons I never followed through with the rebuild project, it made me question everything. I ended up getting a great offer from someone, and am installing that engine right now.

As to your edits: I respect your opinion on stuff, but the costs up there are what stuff came to, plain and simple, if I wanted that work done, that is what I had to pay. The donor engine was needed because my crank was cut deep, and both of my heads were cracked. And even dropping down my costs that you highlighted as high, especially with new rods factored in, would still put you above the 1900$ mark, so I'm not sure where you're getting the 1400$ figure.

I feel bad arguing, you've helped me out before on several things, but from an informational standpoint, your experience and mine just don't add up, and I want anyone reading this to be able to use the information I've learned.

AleX

 

It seems to me some parts of the country are way higher when it comes to engine rebuilding and prices vary depending on where you live. I have at least 2 dozen performance engine builders within a 2 hour drive and they compete hard for each others business.So the prices are low, on average a block dip and magnaflux is about 60.00 and then its 12.00 per cylinder to bore and micro hone.