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Has anyone hooked up two or more dryers to the same outdoor vent? Would I need to use some sort of valves to prevent the lint from blowing in the other dryer or will it be fine with out one?
In my mom's house the second hole would have to go trough the brick so we are trying to figure out other ways. I got two holes in my uncles house for the two dryers.
I'd use solid vent pipe. Make a "T". Don't run both driers at the same time. Vacuum the pipes out occassionaly and inspect the inside of the cabinet. Note: I'm just an old do it yourselfer not a professional.
Wolf
Dont' do it, just put a second vent thru the wall somewhere. They cost 8 bucks at the Depot. If you try to tee them together, the lint from one dryer is going to blow into the other dryer, and vice versa. You don't want to increase the backpressure by putting a Tee in the dryer hoses', this will kill the efficiency and drive up the elec bill. This problem would be 10 times worse if we're talking about gas dryers. In the event you use both dryers at the same time, then NEITHER will vent correctly, not if both are trying to vent thru a 4 inch hole. This would increase the chance of a fire as well. Follow the manufacturers' recommendations.
Most rental places can rent you a rotary hammer and a 4-1/4 dry core bit for the day pretty cheap if going thru the brick is the only option.
Second suggestion, let some one else drill the hole. By example, if you were in my area, I would charge you an hours labor,$78.50, and I have these tools on my truck. It would take around 25 minutes to drill. If you have a pot of coffee there, it'll cost even less.
Last edited by Freight Train; Feb 27, 2003 at 07:52 PM.
Is it an electric or gas dryer. You can get indoor vents for electric dryers. They do have to be cleaned regularly, or they make a big mess with the lint.
Yup, what Coulee said, I just looked at one in my wifes "Improvements" catalog last night. They are a water trap system made more for apartments where you can't vent outside but it would work anywhere.
One of the major causes of house fires in North America is a buildup of dryer lint. These things get hot!
Don't do it. If you need to vent through the brick, you need to vent through the brick! There's no "easy" fix.
Use 4" sheetmetal pipe, the plastic stuff tends to trap lint. Depending on the connection at the dryer, use a minimum number of bends , and as short a run as possible.
I have been in the apartment and house rental maintenance field for almost 10 years.Put a second hole in the wall thats the safest way, if you T the vents the lint will back up in the other dryer(it's not like the exhaust on your truck) and as Karic said it is a fire hazard.
Ok I'm covinced to put a second hole through the brick. It'll take a little longer but it would be more efficient and safer. We actually
have one of each. I think its the gas dryer being added right now the gas and the electric is not a problem for us.
In my uncle house we have one of each with two holes and it has worked great for us there. But my mom & dad's house needs a second there with my sister's family living in the basement right now, so its hard for one to keep up. So we figured if we got it we should use it.
Code requirements of BOCA, UBC, IBC all call for the independent venting of dryer vents. A single run from appliance to termination shall be no longer than 25 ft. For every 90 degree turn that overall length is reduced 5ft. For every 45 degree turn that overall length is reduced 2.5 ft. No fastners such as screws will penetrate the vent at any point. No reduction of pipe size from appliance to termination is allowed. Hope this helps.
I have a question along these lines. Because someone designed the washer dryer location in the middle of an inside wall, I have a 13ft run with (3) 90's and (1) 45. I was wondering if I went with 6" ridged, would it meet code? Or if I used a helper fan?
If you can wait till monday I will be happy to research that for you and get the specifics. I don't know off the top of my head as I don't do residential.
I do however have all the current codes in my office.
If you could answer the following questions it may be helpful.
Is this a gas or electric appliance?
Single or multi family dwelling?
Is unit located in a multi story dwelling if so what floor is it on.
If it is on ground floor what type of floor is it, ie. wood framed, or concrete.
Franklin
It's an electric dryer.
Single family, stick framed,(early-mid 70's style, 16" OC, T-111 siding).
The washer/ dryer were put in the attached garage on a contrete floor, on the inside wall.
The house origanally was one story with a 2/12 pitch, hot tar and white rock roof, but about 7 years ago I ripped that all off and put 12/12 over the garage and 10/12 over the house. Unfininished now, but someday... I thought about going up with a roof vent, but the 90's would be the same, plus I'd have 6' added verticle rise.
The old lady that owned the house before me just put a nylon stocking over the outlet,(bad). I tryed a water trap for about 6 months, but being in western Oregon and all the rain we get here, the moisture drove me and my tools nuts. I would only suggest one for MAYBE a desert region. I put 4" in, venting to the nearest outside wall. While it works, I know it's not right and I'm sure the dryer would be happier with a better arrangement.
Scott, sounds like to me you are going to have to run the vent stack up the wall, into the attic, and to a roof mounted vent stack. I would suggest a metal system instead of flexible. Regardless, it is a fact that a major cause of house fires is a clogged dryer vent. Make sure that every spring you blow the line out with a leaf blower to keep it clean. Also, in regards to your adding a roof vent, you may find it better to spray paint the roof deck from the attic side with a radiant barrier paint. It will reduce the radiant heat by 55%. Radiant heat is the cause of heat in the attic, not so much as conductivity as we all would assume. Anybody that is building a home or adding on needs to review the material at www.buildingscience.com these guys are extremely sharp on energy conservation. The houses I build, we are heating and cooling 3000 sq. ft for $50. a month average using their recommendations. This is heat and cool only. Hope this helps. www.radiancecomfort.com
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