I've got a '77 Ford F150 Ranger short box stepside with a 351 in it. Opinions keep varying on whether I have a 351 Windsor or Cleveland (how can I really tell?).

I've finally gotten sick of the problems with the stock motor and I'm looking to swap with a new motor. Any advice on where to look? Anything else to be careful of (i.e. tranny, axles, etc)? I'm not going to go big, just for something new with probably about the lowest power available in a swap (maybe 350 HP/TQ).

 

were is the thermostat housing at ?

 

I like the newer fuel injected 302's for swaps into these trucks. Parts availability for the 302's are endless and on the cheaper side. There is a ton of support on the 5.0 because of the fact that it was used in MANY vehicles and especially the Mustang.

Understandable though if you want to keep the carb, if this is the case, I would go big. A 460 would be my suggestion.

I really like the 351's, if it were me I would consider keeping the stock motor in it and maybe freshening it up. The Windsor or the Cleveland were both very reliable and strong motors in there stock form.

 

all depending on your swap, with the 351w you will have the small block bellhousing so your current transmission won't be a problem. you could go with the 302 either fuel injected or carburated, your choice. However, i'm more concerned with what actual problems you are currently having with the stock motor. Fine tuning and some newer parts to freshen her up may be all that she actually needs. You can check online at any reputable engine builder's site to see prices and warranties that you may be interested in.

 

351W will have 6 valve cover bolts
351C will have 8 valve cover bolts


I say grab a 460, and throw an aftermarket efi system on it.

 

I believe the thermostat housing on this motor is where the coolant hose exits the top of the radiator and connects to the engine? If so, that's on the front of the motor a couple of inches towards the passenger side from center.

So to start, I've had lots of service done on this thing since I bought it. It was a 1 owner truck with 83k miles as of 2 years ago, and now has 87 or 88k. I normally do all my own work, but due to other commitments (including a complete part-out of a Subaru), I don't have time or energy to work on it, so a shop is getting my money.

I had the compression tested when I bought it 2 years ago and 6 of 8 cylinders were in good shape (85+). Two had readings in the low to mid 70s. The motor is almost strictly stock. The fabric/metal coil air intake tube degraded over time and was replaced by me with a metal dryer vent pipe. Yeah the typical cheap and dirty solution, I had an extra one lying around! The exhaust when I bought it was a dual pipe setup, which was making it run badly. I replaced it with a custom 2.5" single pipe setup that exits just in front of the driver's side rear tire. With the extra backpressure, the motor ran much better.

All of the fluids have been replaced. It had a completely new ignition system put in 2 years ago, including plugs, wires, distributor, and ignition control module (Napa parts). It just had a new manual fuel pump put in due to the original one's diaphram coming apart. I also just had the carb adjusted because it was running rich.

I had the last couple of things done because I took it for a drive and the gas was low, and I think it got vaporlocked because I tried to stretch it to make a gas station a mile up the road, and I ran out. Then I took it for an hour drive to use my boat, and it made it almost all the way back before it started hesitating on the highway before I made it into a parking lot off the highway. I went into the store there and came back out and it wouldn't start. I drove by there every day to/from work, so each night for 3 nights I tried to start it and it wouldn't. Finally I was on the phone with a tow company and just cranked it over for at least a minute and it caught. And no trailering isn't doing it, it's a 1000 lb setup including boat and trailer.

The shop put in the new fuel pump and adjusted the carb, and it still didn't feel right driving it back to my house. Now it won't start at all since I parked it Friday. I'm going to get a can of starting fluid and spray the carb to see if that help.

Overall, I can deal with the crappy power it has, but I want something more reliable. I go some pretty extreme off-road places where if it dies, you have to fix it there, abandon it, or winch yourself 10 miles out 100 ft at a time (sounds fun!).

 

If its the stock motor I'd think a 351M for your year. It would have the same bellhousing as a 351/400M and 429/460 Lima block. I'd say go with a 400M for ease and expense. Reasonable compression and corrected cam timing and you'll get great power without having to change so much else to go Big block 460. No replacement for displacement type of deal. Just my opinion. Best of luck!!!

 

Any recommendations on places to buy a crate motor? I've found a few places, but not sure if there's anywhere that's recommended.

And I think I have a 351W based on my VIN.

 

You know you really might want to consider fixing what you've got. You say you want reliability, it's really hard to beat a properly set up carb system.

If your problem truly was vapor lock, an electric fuel pump and proper regulator would easily solve that problem. Your compression issues might be serious or they might not. A leakdown test will tell you a lot more than a compression test. You might find that you just have a sticking or burnt valve. A nice set of heads with a good intake and an appropriate carb might wake that engine right up and it will surely cost less.

It's your truck and you're free to do whatever you want of course, but I would feel way better about it if I was sure of the cause of my problems first. Even the best planned engine swap can be costly when you can likely fix it and add some power for less money.

If you decide to do a swap, however, I have a friend who might be interested in a running motor provided the price is right.

 

I think you need to figure out what 351 you have before you can make a decision. I would stick with something that does has the same transmission bolt pattern.
If it's a 351m then I'd go 460.

 

That motor was not put in any 1977 trucks from the factory. You more than likely have a 351M. 460 swaps are very common and easy on trucks with the 351M. Thats the route I would (and did) take.

 

I should've specified I had the leakdown test done too and everything looked pretty good other than those 2 cylinders.

I guess I'm just really frustrated at this point that replacing the entire ignition, putting in a new fuel pump, creating a correct custom exhaust, and adjusting the carb have resulted in a truck that won't start. Then it needs a new radiator since it overheats in the summer on long hill climbs. At what point do I stop shoveling in money to fix it and just buy a new motor that actually works right? What guarantee do I have that replacing the heads and carb won't result in another set of problems?

The money for the swap isn't an issue. What I have an issue with is a truck that no matter how many things I change or fix, it still won't run right. Honestly, if it wasn't a fairly rare truck (stepside short box high boy), with some good mods already (custom F/R interchangeable 10k lb winch, custom rims with 2 matching spares, roll bar), I'd probably just sell it and buy myself a Wrangler or something.

 

Well I can understand your frustration. You did mention that you believe it needs a new radiator, and it might. However, won't it still need a new radiator with a new engine?

Short of the compression issue, is that you may find that you have the exact same problems with a new engine. Then imagine how pissed you're gonna be if you spend a bunch of money on a new engine and it still won't run?

My truck technically has a 306, reason being that some moron convinced my moron step-grandfather that the reason the truck was overheating was that the engine was just worn out. He had somebody bore it 30 over and rebuild it. For all his trouble and money, it still overheated. At that point somebody with some sense pointed towards the radiator and either flushed it or replaced it. The truck has never overheated since.

I guess my point is that although money might not seem to be an issue currently, how long can you afford to throw parts at it before it does become an issue? Especially when the answer might be something simple?

 

Well I can deal with getting a new radiator to support the new engine.

The shop that has worked on it is very good, and treats me well. For instance, they'll troubleshoot the problem and usually only charge me for the fix time even if the fix is 20 minutes and it took 2 hours to troubleshoot. If they can't figure out what's wrong with it, then I don't know where else to turn at this point.

I'm a car guy and know my way around every part of a car very well, but it has me stumped. Well, not stumped. For an engine to run right, you need spark, fuel, and air. I know air isn't an issue. Fuel now shouldn't be an issue with the new pump and an adjusted carb. Spark shouldn't be an issue with a good alternator and battery, plus all the rest of the electrical being new.

But guess what, as I typed the part about the fuel, a light bulb went off and I think I might just be dumb. The truck had issues in late July, and then got parked at the shop. I didn't need it for a long time due to a major wrist surgery, so that gas is now almost 4 months old. I wonder if it's that simple and I just need to fill up the tank with fresh gas. I imagine there's a drain plug somewhere on the bottom of the tank..... That would be great if that's all it is.

Sometimes when you know too much about cars, you look for the complicated answer before thinking about the basics. As soon as I put "spark, fuel, and air" it made me think about the basics. Here's to hoping that's all it is!

 

I don't think there is a drain on the tank, but as poor as these trucks are for mileage, I would say it wouldn't take too long to run it nearly empty then top it off with fresh gas. That is, assuming you can get it running in the first place. I would just try to stay close to home just in case.