2bbl Choke adjustment
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2bbl Choke adjustment
Sorry for all the posts, but I'm trying to nail down all the issues with my new truck. Again 1973 F100, 360 engine, factory 2bbl carb (not sure which one assuming Motorcraft).
Went to start it up this morning, and it didn't want to stay running. Took the aircleaner off, and gave her a little gas, and after a bit it would stay running. It feels like my choke isn't choking. I have a **** directly to the right of the cigar lighter that isn't labelled. I thought maybe it was the choke, but it doesnt appear to do anything on the carb when pulled. Any idea what it might be?
Did these have a vacuum actuated choke or a manual one? Any idea how to adjust? I searched and found a few diagrams, but they appear to be for the later model trucks (i.e. 78-79).
Thanks again, you guys have been really helpful.
-MK
Went to start it up this morning, and it didn't want to stay running. Took the aircleaner off, and gave her a little gas, and after a bit it would stay running. It feels like my choke isn't choking. I have a **** directly to the right of the cigar lighter that isn't labelled. I thought maybe it was the choke, but it doesnt appear to do anything on the carb when pulled. Any idea what it might be?
Did these have a vacuum actuated choke or a manual one? Any idea how to adjust? I searched and found a few diagrams, but they appear to be for the later model trucks (i.e. 78-79).
Thanks again, you guys have been really helpful.
-MK
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Just pulled my aircleaner off, and choke plate is open. Pumped the gas pedal to set the choke and the plate never moved. Indnt think the choke is engaging at all. I'm going to go through fmc400's procedure for setting the choke and fast idle tonight, but is this indicative of another problem, or something that can be solved bu setting the choke?
Thanks
-MK
Thanks
-MK
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When I first got my truck the choke didn't do anything. Turns out some moron had rotated the choke housing so far around that it never did anything. It was pointed 90 degrees forward. I rotated it back around and had a choke, but I eventually discovered another problem. The choke on my truck, and possibly on yours too is automatic, but it is not purely electric. Rather it is an electrically assisted hot air choke. The hot air portion of mine was completely gone and thus when it was REALLY cold, the electrical part couldn't keep up and the choke never pulled off. Truck ran OK, I just got lousy gas mileage.
I did a little bit of research and was able to rig up the hot air portion of my choke. I'm still tinkering with getting it set 100% right, but it works way better than before. Go through FMC400's writeup, it is very good. He doesn't address the hot air portion at all, but you will certainly start running into problems very quickly if there is something physically wrong.
I did a little bit of research and was able to rig up the hot air portion of my choke. I'm still tinkering with getting it set 100% right, but it works way better than before. Go through FMC400's writeup, it is very good. He doesn't address the hot air portion at all, but you will certainly start running into problems very quickly if there is something physically wrong.
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Did you pull the **** and then look at the butterfly to see if its moved at all? May have been converted to manual choke?
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Yes I tried pulling the mystery **** to see if it actuated the choke. It doesn't.
Although I'm considering installing a manual choke. As a vintage motorcycle guy, I much prefer the control of a manual choke. The simpler the better in my opinion.
I've read through the adjustment processes detailed by FMC400, and I'm going to go through the setting of the choke and high idle tonight after I flip my t-stat around so it's pointing in the right direction...
As it is now, I just have to keep my foot on the gas for 20-30 seconds while it warms up enough to idle on it's own. Not the worst thing, but I'd rather not have to do that.
-MK
Although I'm considering installing a manual choke. As a vintage motorcycle guy, I much prefer the control of a manual choke. The simpler the better in my opinion.
I've read through the adjustment processes detailed by FMC400, and I'm going to go through the setting of the choke and high idle tonight after I flip my t-stat around so it's pointing in the right direction...
As it is now, I just have to keep my foot on the gas for 20-30 seconds while it warms up enough to idle on it's own. Not the worst thing, but I'd rather not have to do that.
-MK
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Personally I would prefer a manual choke myself, but I don't wanna butcher the interior to do it. Now if you already have a **** installed that doesn't do anything, no reason not to convert it to a manual choke. I think you can buy the kit for like $10 at any of the local parts stores.
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I'm definitely gonig to look into it. My question is: if the truck never came with a manual choke, do I just unhook the arm and hook the manual choke cable onto the end of the choke? I imagine I'll have to fab up a little bracket to hold the cable somewhere on the engine...
-MK
-MK
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From: Austin, TX
I have another write-up that does go into detail on the hot-air setup, but unfortunately I haven't had time to update the pictures yet. Here's the link, at least:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116
mktsc: Note that if the engine is hot and the choke spring has unwound, you won't see much action by rotating the choke cap. It won't snap shut either when you press the pedal because the choke spring has to be cooled down. All choke adjustments must be made with the engine completely cooled off, as if it has sat overnight.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116
mktsc: Note that if the engine is hot and the choke spring has unwound, you won't see much action by rotating the choke cap. It won't snap shut either when you press the pedal because the choke spring has to be cooled down. All choke adjustments must be made with the engine completely cooled off, as if it has sat overnight.