Spun Bearing
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Norlina Nc
Spun Bearing
I have a 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty with a 6.8 liter v10. I didnt check the oil like i was supposed to and now im paying for it. It didnt run long before it completly shut off on me over the summer and now i have time to work on it and get it running again. I pulled the engine out and found the problem, a spun bearing. All the pistons are free moving and doesnt look like any damage to the clyinders. My question is how do i remove these pieces beside the bolts? they look like they are round with the 2 sides cut off. All i have done it taken off the oil pan, removed all the bolts holding each piston to the crankshaft (sleeves) and unbolted the 2 bolts for each cross section. They still wont come out because of the half circle fittings. Also what else needs to come out for the crankshaft to be removed? ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!!!!!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 214
Likes: 3
From: Montreal
Are you talking about bearing cap that holds the piston to the crankshaft or the main caps that hold the crankshaft to the block? If it's the mains, they are cross bolted, the two that it sounds like you removed plus you need to undo two bolts each from the outside of the block.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 5
From: Stillwater, OK
Which pieces are you trying to remove? The rod caps?
you're going to want to take the rod nuts/bolts off one set at a time. As you're taking pistons out you will have to turn the crankshaft, and without the rod's still attached, they will go out, but not back in.
Mark your rods and caps, either with a set of number punches 1 through 0(0=10) or with a center punch and the corresponding number of dots.
Once the rods are all marked, you can use a hammer to gently tap the rod caps loose and remove the pistons one at a time. You will have a lot of trouble with the one(s) that spun, as they will have pressure on them. I'd suggest tackling those first, as it will make it much easier to turn the engine over by hand.
Chances are good that those rods that have spun bearings are scrap iron now.
Unless of course you mean that you've spun a main bearing, in which case you might very well be looking for a new block.
you're going to want to take the rod nuts/bolts off one set at a time. As you're taking pistons out you will have to turn the crankshaft, and without the rod's still attached, they will go out, but not back in.
Mark your rods and caps, either with a set of number punches 1 through 0(0=10) or with a center punch and the corresponding number of dots.
Once the rods are all marked, you can use a hammer to gently tap the rod caps loose and remove the pistons one at a time. You will have a lot of trouble with the one(s) that spun, as they will have pressure on them. I'd suggest tackling those first, as it will make it much easier to turn the engine over by hand.
Chances are good that those rods that have spun bearings are scrap iron now.
Unless of course you mean that you've spun a main bearing, in which case you might very well be looking for a new block.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 23,174
Likes: 1,678
From: Stephensville WI
Wkbrdr1, welcome to FTE.
It sounds to me like you suffered some internal engine damage due to running the engine without oil. I'm not sure how you arrived at the "spun bearing" diagnosis, but if the engine was run without oil until it no longer ran, then just replacing the main bearings won't cut it. The entire engine needs to be torn down, inspected and rebuilt properly.
I don't mean to be harsh, but the fact that you seem to think just replacing the bearings will make it all good, and then cannot even figure out how to get to the bearings would suggest you are not able to perform an engine rebuild. Get help, get an engine manual, or get a rebuilt engine, but stop what you are doing please.
It sounds to me like you suffered some internal engine damage due to running the engine without oil. I'm not sure how you arrived at the "spun bearing" diagnosis, but if the engine was run without oil until it no longer ran, then just replacing the main bearings won't cut it. The entire engine needs to be torn down, inspected and rebuilt properly.
I don't mean to be harsh, but the fact that you seem to think just replacing the bearings will make it all good, and then cannot even figure out how to get to the bearings would suggest you are not able to perform an engine rebuild. Get help, get an engine manual, or get a rebuilt engine, but stop what you are doing please.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
The camshafts have no bearings and run in the aluminum head with no oil those are also going to be trashed. You will need to replace the heads if this happened. IMO you would be money and time ahead if you bought a rebuilt engine for under 2k and dropped it in or find a used engines with a warranty.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 214
Likes: 3
From: Montreal
The camshafts have no bearings and run in the aluminum head with no oil those are also going to be trashed. You will need to replace the heads if this happened. IMO you would be money and time ahead if you bought a rebuilt engine for under 2k and dropped it in or find a used engines with a warranty.
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Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
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From: Texas
I got a V10 with 120K and PI heads for $500. Then I got $350 back selling the old one as a core.
I think thats the best way to go, and it lets you up grade to the 310HP PI 2V over the 99s 275HP Non PI 2v.
I think thats the best way to go, and it lets you up grade to the 310HP PI 2V over the 99s 275HP Non PI 2v.
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