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I have a 1995 F-150. When I am driving down the road against the wind, I can see my driver's side door shuddering. If you look just right, you can see light between the door and the cab.
Does anyone else have this problem? Is this a hinge problems, or could the seals be wore out?
on the door striker plate. More than likely they are worn out. $2 to $5 at the parts house. You will need a Torx bit to unscrew the striker plate to replace them. It may take a while to get the adjustment just right, but when adjusted correctly, then door will close easily and will seal very well with out having to slam it. If it is in the front part of the door, its the door hinge bushings, again easily replaced parts.
I see light at the front just infront of the vent window.
I will look at the striker tonight. That one would be the easiest to replace. If it is the hinge bushings can you give me a short version for replacement?
you will have to file/grind/cut the hinge pins if they are the originals. Then drive the pin out. Install the new bushings (purchased @ local parts store), install new hinge pin and retaining clip. Repeat process for other hinge.
I went by the parts store tonight to order sway bar bushings for the rear sway bar. I then asked the guy for the hinge pin and bushings. He suggested that I try adjusting the striker bolt. Does anyone have an opinion on that?
Swapping out a pin and bushings doesn't see like to big of a job, or course neither is adjusting the strikker.
Just look closely at how the back edge of the door sits in relation to the body skin, especially at the body line above the outside handle, then loosen the bolt & move it the way the door needed to move to align.
It won't do much if anything for the front edge, though. That's set by the hinges.
Check the pins this way. Open the door, grab the bottom and back edge. Try and lift. if the hing pins ar bad the door will rock up and down. I need to change mine soon. its so noisy in the cab.
Washers between the bottom hinge and the door will raise the rear of the door and close the gap in the front. I have done this many times, granted replacing the bushings would be better but the washer trick is quick, cheap, and easy. Just a thought.
I've got a 96 f150 and adjusted the door the other day. wasn't bad, but it seems to "drop" when I open the door. Does every f150 do this? I've got everything tight I'm sure. Also.. are the doors nice and flush w/ the front fender? My driver side seems to be pushed in ever so slightly and being a perfectionist, it drives me nuts. Also, does anyone have a problem w/ the door intererior "stuff" making noise when the truck flexes going down the road? Is there something to tighten? I've already tried tightening the screws I can see..
Originally posted by magic-dot it seems to "drop" when I open the door.
You need to either shim the bottom of the door with washers (the way 91f250460 described) or move the lower hinge slightly rearward to hold the door at the right height just before it meets the strike bolt.
My driver side seems to be pushed in ever so slightly
If the door meets the seal correctly, then the door isn't the problem. You just need to push the fender in to match the door by loosening the 2 bolts at the top near the hood hinge, or the one at the bottom underneath and the one forward of the lower hinge in the jam.
does anyone have a problem w/ the door intererior "stuff" making noise when the truck flexes going down the road? Is there something to tighten? I've already tried tightening the screws I can see..
There are some plastic push-fasteners that hold the door panel on the door's inner skin, and they often are damaged if the panel is ever removed. They're not expensive from Ford or a parts store, and they're easy to install.
I replaced the hinge pins and bushings on my door this weekend. It solved my problem. I think my door may be in just a hair, but it is not a big deal. I tried to rebolt everything back the way it was ( I had marked the mounting locations), but that is darn near impossible. Any way, it stopped all wind noise, and will hopefully stop water from passing by the seal.
The poor mans way of replacing the striker bushing is to get a piece of 1/2" water hose and cut a section to fit. You have to make a cut down one side so you can slip it over the end of the bolt, and maybe cut out a sliver so the diameter is the right size. Just thought I'd share my frugal ways.
An even poorer-man's way is to carry a T-50 on a ratchet in your pocket when you hit the junkyards and collect the nice OE ones! The later-style ('87-96) has the shield that keeps the door from seizing in a wreck.