2001 7.3 wont start...
#1
2001 7.3 wont start...
OK here's the deal. My nephew was driving down a hill and it started to spit and spud er and quit. Low on fuel it must of run out as it was pretty empty. Put fuel in it and wont start. Pulled it to the farm and put a new fuel filter on it and still no start. The fuel filter is full of fuel when you take the filter out. Any thoughts? He is and so am I new to these 7.3 diesels.Not sure what to do next.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Get a new CPS to start with, at $20 it's a cheap start with.
Then, unplug the fuel heater at the fuel bowl. Check the fuses. if the fuel heater is the problem, a fuse will be blown.
If none of that works, check your fuel pressure.
after that, you'll need a scanner , Like an AE scanner, to see what the engine is doing when you go to start it.
Then, unplug the fuel heater at the fuel bowl. Check the fuses. if the fuel heater is the problem, a fuse will be blown.
If none of that works, check your fuel pressure.
after that, you'll need a scanner , Like an AE scanner, to see what the engine is doing when you go to start it.
#3
If it ran out of fuel, AND after changing fuel filter - ya need to cycle the key a couple times to purge the air out of fuel filter bowl. The inlet & outlet are on the bottom and the 'return' is on top. Cycling the key effectively pushes the air back to fuel tank.
You can check fuel pump by opening the water drain valve on filter. (I always put a piece of hose on the end of steel line on front of block where this discharges - this allows me to collect and inspect the contents of the filter) There should be 8-10oz of diesel in the bowl and when ya turn the key on it should blast out more than a quart in the 30-40secs the pump runs before timing out. Its possible you have some trash on the screens in the fuel tank or something.
The CPS is no magic bullet and I don't see your circumstances indicating a CPS failure.... but if ya just wanna throw parts at it - thats a cheeeep one and won't hurt to have a spare!
What part of the country are you in? Maybe someone nearby with a scantool like AE can help ya diagnose the problem...
You can check fuel pump by opening the water drain valve on filter. (I always put a piece of hose on the end of steel line on front of block where this discharges - this allows me to collect and inspect the contents of the filter) There should be 8-10oz of diesel in the bowl and when ya turn the key on it should blast out more than a quart in the 30-40secs the pump runs before timing out. Its possible you have some trash on the screens in the fuel tank or something.
The CPS is no magic bullet and I don't see your circumstances indicating a CPS failure.... but if ya just wanna throw parts at it - thats a cheeeep one and won't hurt to have a spare!
What part of the country are you in? Maybe someone nearby with a scantool like AE can help ya diagnose the problem...
#4
Air in the fuel lines for sure. After you get er running it may burp every now and then for the next 50 miles as air is purged.....
never let is run out of fuel as it can be a bear to get going and you might pick up some crud from the fuel tank.
Been there and don't ever want to do it again.
Make sure that the fuel bowl is full (just pour a little fuel in it). don't 'crank' the starter more than 3-4 seconds at a time as you may burn it up. Once you have some fuel pressure up in the rails it should fire and caugh and spit for a while.
never let is run out of fuel as it can be a bear to get going and you might pick up some crud from the fuel tank.
Been there and don't ever want to do it again.
Make sure that the fuel bowl is full (just pour a little fuel in it). don't 'crank' the starter more than 3-4 seconds at a time as you may burn it up. Once you have some fuel pressure up in the rails it should fire and caugh and spit for a while.
#5
Update? These trucks are designed to self purge. After several cycles with the ignition switch, it should fire up if it just ran out of fuel.
If the fuel foot in your tank has come apart as mine did, you will need to do the in-tank mod soon or keep the tank at least 1/3 filled or this will happen again.
If the fuel foot in your tank has come apart as mine did, you will need to do the in-tank mod soon or keep the tank at least 1/3 filled or this will happen again.
#6
Update.....
First of all I would like to thank you all for your help...
Ok since the last post we have been busy lol. We did put a CPS on it because it was cheap and easy. Still don't start. There are two codes that come up on a programmer.
P1316 = INDICATES THAT IDM DTCs ARE STORED IN IDM.
P0340 (P0340 OR P0341 OR P0344) = ENGINE TORQUE AND FUEL IS CONTROLLED AND DEPENDENT ON ENGINE SPEED. FUEL QUANTITY
IS DETERMINED BY ENGINE SPEED.
Can someone translate this for me?
Thanks
First of all I would like to thank you all for your help...
Ok since the last post we have been busy lol. We did put a CPS on it because it was cheap and easy. Still don't start. There are two codes that come up on a programmer.
P1316 = INDICATES THAT IDM DTCs ARE STORED IN IDM.
P0340 (P0340 OR P0341 OR P0344) = ENGINE TORQUE AND FUEL IS CONTROLLED AND DEPENDENT ON ENGINE SPEED. FUEL QUANTITY
IS DETERMINED BY ENGINE SPEED.
Can someone translate this for me?
Thanks
#7
Where did you get the CPS? P0340 means a problem with the CPS. Without a good CPS, the truck will not start. We've seen bad out of the box units from some of the parts stores. We typically recommend only using one from Ford or International. The common issues for a P1316 won't prevent the truck from starting, so let's focus on the CPS first.
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#9
Just a thought.
#10
#11
Is it full of OIL? Is there smoke when its trying to start? Have you checked to see if engine is getting fuel yet (fuel filter drain 'test')?
No real danger or lingering fear from running out of fuel. The pick-up is flat on the BOTTOM of the lowest part of the tank - on purpose. You WANT to suck the water and trash out of the tank constantly to avoid creating an ecosystem in there. After over 300k miles the only 'trash' in my tank was from the failed coating in the tank (steel tank - cab-chassis F350).
I'd rather spend $360 on an AE ONE TIME and insure I NEVER have to go to the stealership again!!!!!!! IMHO, you are probably as qualified to diagnose and fix your truck as the 'average' dealer if you have an AE and some friends here on FTE. As a minimum, you won't have to wonder if the $900 repair they are proposing is credible!
Call Clay at Riffraff for AE.
There are plenty of other things that could be wrong. My truck 'shut off' once and I found it had no ICP - cleaned IPR and (that) problem was solved.
No real danger or lingering fear from running out of fuel. The pick-up is flat on the BOTTOM of the lowest part of the tank - on purpose. You WANT to suck the water and trash out of the tank constantly to avoid creating an ecosystem in there. After over 300k miles the only 'trash' in my tank was from the failed coating in the tank (steel tank - cab-chassis F350).
I'd rather spend $360 on an AE ONE TIME and insure I NEVER have to go to the stealership again!!!!!!! IMHO, you are probably as qualified to diagnose and fix your truck as the 'average' dealer if you have an AE and some friends here on FTE. As a minimum, you won't have to wonder if the $900 repair they are proposing is credible!
Call Clay at Riffraff for AE.
There are plenty of other things that could be wrong. My truck 'shut off' once and I found it had no ICP - cleaned IPR and (that) problem was solved.
#12
#13
#14
Before you wheel it to the dealer... I just had the same issue this weekend. My oil level was so low that the HPOP dropped down far enough that it didn't fire the injectors. Once I got the engine oil level back to where it was supposed to be. It still didn't fire. I checked the oil level in the HPOP and it was down about 1 1/2 inches from the top. Once I put a little more oil in it to get it to where it should of been, (1/2 inch from the top), it fire up again. Took about 5 seconds of cranking but it caught. After a few minutes of driving to the local store, (5 miles), and back. then again, starting got easier and easier. now it fires right up about a second of cranking. I figure it just took a little bit to get the oil pressure built back up but even with the engine filled, it didn't pull it in fast enough to catch. So had to fill it manually at first.