I dont know of any diagrams but Im sure there are some out there. I think I can help you identify the rest of the components. The radius arms run parallel to the frame rails. They attach to the rear of the front axle and to some brackets on the bottom of the frame rails right in the area where your feet would be when sitting in the truck. Knowing that, The C bushings are the rubber bushings that wrap around the axle tubes where the radius arm is attached to the front axle. There are 4 bolts on the front end of the radius arm that "clamp" the C bushings in place. The radius arm bushings are on the rear end of the radius arm where the radius arm attaches to the bracket on the frame rails. The bushings look like hockey pucks and sandwich the bracket in between them. There is one big nut on the rear end of the radius arm that attaches it and the bushings to the bracket (1 1/8" nut if I remember right) Now for the track bar......If you look at the front axle from the front of the truck you will see a bar attaches to the passenger side axle tube that runs up diagonally and attaches to the drivers side frame rail. That is your track bar. It has rubber bushings in each end of it. It is secured by one bolt at each end.
The purpose of the track bar is to properly locate the front axle assembly from side to side. The purpose of the radius arms is to properly locate the front axle from front to rear and allow the front axle to swing in an arc as the springs compress and decompress. If the radius arm bushings and C bushings are worn your front axle will just float around whereever it wants causing wandering. Same applies to the track arm bushings. If the radius arm bushings are extremely worn out you will probably hear a clunk right under the floorboards when you hit a bump. (Thats whats going on with mine right now) I hope this all makes sense and helps you out. BTW I always liked Bozeman.......really pretty up there...........If you have anymore questions, just post 'em up and I'll try to help a "neighbor" out.

 

Fish,

Do you have any catalogs - LMC, NPD, JBG? They have some diagrams. LMCtruck.com pages 117 (truck) & 120 (Bronco - same thing just easier to see) so you can ID the other parts. I think your Haynes manual has the directions for adjusting the steering box but you should invest in a real manual - hippoarts I believe is the name $50 for CD or you can order from one of the catalogs.

In your new photos #2 shows some of the C, the coil spring is on top of it. The bushing looks worn out, follow the arm back towards the cab, where it attaches to the frame - radius arm bushings. Track arm is behind the drag link and runs at about the same angle. I had a shop replace mine.

To be honest all of your stuff is very old and looks like it should be replaced. Safety first!

Mark

Edit: 78 PEB beat me to it and has a better desrciption

 

Yup, got the catalogs and had them out yesterday looking to identify the different parts. Strangely, while some here have identified one piece as the drag link, some of the catalogs I have ID that same piece as something else entirely.

Old? Yes. In need of repair/replace? Probably. The saving grace is that 1) the trucks' name is Patience (fitting, I think), 2) I bought her as a project/learning rig, and she's fulfilling that role nicely, and 3) I hadn't planned on driving her really at all until spring, so I've got time!

Thanks again for your help. Lots of knowledgeable and helpful folks here at FTE.

Fish

 

Fish,

The LMC catalog calls the drag link a center link - I'm not sure why. It's good to have time on your side. I have been working on mine for a long time. Let us know how this goes.

Mark

 

So here's a question:

My drag link has one half of the steering stabilizer bolted onto one end, but the JBG drag link on page 61 of the the JBG catalog does not indicate those bolt holes are available. The LMC catalog (page 109) indicates that those bolt holes are there. JBG is cheaper than LMC and is a site sponsor, so I'm interested in spending my money there. Any idea if the JBG drag link can accept a steering stabilizer?

Also, in looking at the JBG bushing kit, I see kits designed for stock height, lifts up to 2.5", and lifts above 2.5". In all honesty, I have no idea if my truck is stock height or what. Any thoughts? Can I measure to determine if it's stock height? Pictures posted below.





I plan on ordering the steering linkage and bushings after Christmas, so there's no rush.

Thanks for the excellent description of the steering linkage bits and pieces, 78 PEB. That's very helpful.
Fish

 

Hey man, if your truck has a body lift, you would see little blocks where every body mount is.
From what I see, your truck is stock height.

Swing by the house one night or give me a ring and I'll swing out so we can settle a bunch of the problems!
When do we get to take a buffer and some polish to Patience?

 

[quote=Fish_Scientist;9718418]So here's a question:

My drag link has one half of the steering stabilizer bolted onto one end, but the JBG drag link on page 61 of the the JBG catalog does not indicate those bolt holes are available. The LMC catalog (page 109) indicates that those bolt holes are there. JBG is cheaper than LMC and is a site sponsor, so I'm interested in spending my money there. Any idea if the JBG drag link can accept a steering stabilizer?

Also, in looking at the JBG bushing kit, I see kits designed for stock height, lifts up to 2.5", and lifts above 2.5". In all honesty, I have no idea if my truck is stock height or what. Any thoughts? Can I measure to determine if it's stock height? Pictures posted below.





I plan on ordering the steering linkage and bushings after Christmas, so there's no rush.

Thanks for the excellent description of the steering linkage bits and pieces, 78 PEB. That's very helpful.
Fish

Glad it helped............. Your truck appears to be stock height. and a fine looker to boot.........Love the wheels..........Same ones Ive got on mine except I have painted in between the vanes with a satin black. Ive had the wheels forever. Ive used em on 2 other dents and 2 different Jeeps......I just always thought they looked right on a dent.......Besides back when they first came out they were the ones everyone wanted... but nobody could afford .........you usually came home with a set of white spokes instead LOL Headed thru your country today on our way to see our daughter in Gillette.............Merry Christmas

 

Fish,

I just got off the phone with Mark @ JBG - the drag link is drilled for the stabilizer. You can't tell from the photo. So, I ordered my kit - it comes with new castle nuts too.

Your truck does look stock to me also. With new bushings and the steering kit you will notice a big improvement.

Let us know how it comes out.

Mark

 

I have the same problem - loose steering.

That was the only problem.... until now. I've been driving in 4-hi almost all the time for the last couple weeks. I have pathetic tires and live in a town with lots of hills. a little slush is a real killer. When you turn hard over and go in 4wd it bucks like crazy, as is to be expected, but I think at some point I screwed up my steering shaft.

When I rotate the wheel one revolution it isn't a consistent amount of pressure applied - there are 2 or 3 times per revolution of the wheel where it's hard to turn. I can't do the one-handed spin anymore, I have to get 2 hands on the wheel.

This seems like the U-joint is bad, but it could be the shaft I suppose. Is the only option to replace the entire setup? There is some slop under the hood at the shaft where it comes out the firewall. the u-joint seems pretty tight. Anybody have experience with troubleshooting this problem?

thanks a bunch. This is a very helpful thread.

 

I use the LMC catalog to help me figure out what is what and where it goes. I am working on a 78 F150 4wd and the question I have is, is the flange on the steering shaft where it attaches to the rag joint supposed to have a bend in it? or should it be flat?

Here is what mine looks like.



Also can you upgrade to a double u-joint Borgensen shaft?