pull cab for repairs
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Elma, NY
I'm told that one of the few things thay can work on with out lifting the cab off over the 6.0 is the turbo because it sits on top now. Other then that and mabye a few other little things, it is my understanding that a cab removel is still needed for most engine work. If you've look in and under the hood of the 6.7 there is still not much accessible. I had the 6.0 and now the 6.7 and I can tell you they both look like you needed a shoe horn to get them in.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 102
Likes: 4
The 6.7L was designed specifically so that all major bolt-on engine components could be serviced without removing or lifting the cab.
What's deceptive with the 6.7L is that from an initial look, yes, the underhood packaging is quite overwhelming. However, once you remove the upper intake, the whole top of the engine opens up. It's quite amazing, so if your bored one day and have a few minutes...
Design for service was a priority when the 6.7L engine design was still a blank sheet of paper. Moving the fuel injectors outside the rocker covers, relocating the high pressure fuel pump to the front of the engine, eliminating the 3 bolt flanges at the turbo up-pipes in favor of an accessible marmon type flange/clamp design were incorporated to improve serviceability. The location of the EGR cooler assembly on the RH valve cover allows for it to be removed and on the bench in approx. 20 minutes if needed.
There are many other subtle details like thermostat access, engine sensor locations, the quarter turn (120 degree) oil drain plug or the label on the oil cooler to let you guys know that there's an internal fastener before someone tries to pry the cooler loose once the external fasteners are removed. These design aspects were incorporated to provide a highly serviceable engine package.
The only repair that cab removal is still the primary method (but not the only) is for a complete engine rebuild with either a long block or short block. The reason being that you can't lift the engine high enough for the cast upper oil pan assembly to clear the #1 cross member before the turbo hits the cowl.
However, there are situations where the cab is unable to be removed for major engine service. These situations typically arise with major conversions such as lift trucks or other instances where either a box, camper, etc. have been added that overhangs the production cab. In these situations the engine CAN be service without removing the cab but requires a little more service time as you must remove the upper oil pan first.
It's probably helpful to know that you can actually remove the upper oil pan without removing the engine mounts. This is quite nice as you need no upper engine support while working with the truck on a hoist.
-Paul
What's deceptive with the 6.7L is that from an initial look, yes, the underhood packaging is quite overwhelming. However, once you remove the upper intake, the whole top of the engine opens up. It's quite amazing, so if your bored one day and have a few minutes...
Design for service was a priority when the 6.7L engine design was still a blank sheet of paper. Moving the fuel injectors outside the rocker covers, relocating the high pressure fuel pump to the front of the engine, eliminating the 3 bolt flanges at the turbo up-pipes in favor of an accessible marmon type flange/clamp design were incorporated to improve serviceability. The location of the EGR cooler assembly on the RH valve cover allows for it to be removed and on the bench in approx. 20 minutes if needed.
There are many other subtle details like thermostat access, engine sensor locations, the quarter turn (120 degree) oil drain plug or the label on the oil cooler to let you guys know that there's an internal fastener before someone tries to pry the cooler loose once the external fasteners are removed. These design aspects were incorporated to provide a highly serviceable engine package.
The only repair that cab removal is still the primary method (but not the only) is for a complete engine rebuild with either a long block or short block. The reason being that you can't lift the engine high enough for the cast upper oil pan assembly to clear the #1 cross member before the turbo hits the cowl.
However, there are situations where the cab is unable to be removed for major engine service. These situations typically arise with major conversions such as lift trucks or other instances where either a box, camper, etc. have been added that overhangs the production cab. In these situations the engine CAN be service without removing the cab but requires a little more service time as you must remove the upper oil pan first.
It's probably helpful to know that you can actually remove the upper oil pan without removing the engine mounts. This is quite nice as you need no upper engine support while working with the truck on a hoist.
-Paul
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 181
Likes: 2
From: Tampa
The 6.7 has a two piece oil pan . th eupper is a structual part of the bell housing mount. The lower is a composite piece. Right Paul
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,875
Likes: 177
The 6.7L was designed specifically so that all major bolt-on engine components could be serviced without removing or lifting the cab.
What's deceptive with the 6.7L is that from an initial look, yes, the underhood packaging is quite overwhelming. However, once you remove the upper intake, the whole top of the engine opens up. It's quite amazing, so if your bored one day and have a few minutes...
Design for service was a priority when the 6.7L engine design was still a blank sheet of paper. Moving the fuel injectors outside the rocker covers, relocating the high pressure fuel pump to the front of the engine, eliminating the 3 bolt flanges at the turbo up-pipes in favor of an accessible marmon type flange/clamp design were incorporated to improve serviceability. The location of the EGR cooler assembly on the RH valve cover allows for it to be removed and on the bench in approx. 20 minutes if needed.
There are many other subtle details like thermostat access, engine sensor locations, the quarter turn (120 degree) oil drain plug or the label on the oil cooler to let you guys know that there's an internal fastener before someone tries to pry the cooler loose once the external fasteners are removed. These design aspects were incorporated to provide a highly serviceable engine package.
The only repair that cab removal is still the primary method (but not the only) is for a complete engine rebuild with either a long block or short block. The reason being that you can't lift the engine high enough for the cast upper oil pan assembly to clear the #1 cross member before the turbo hits the cowl.
However, there are situations where the cab is unable to be removed for major engine service. These situations typically arise with major conversions such as lift trucks or other instances where either a box, camper, etc. have been added that overhangs the production cab. In these situations the engine CAN be service without removing the cab but requires a little more service time as you must remove the upper oil pan first.
It's probably helpful to know that you can actually remove the upper oil pan without removing the engine mounts. This is quite nice as you need no upper engine support while working with the truck on a hoist.
-Paul
What's deceptive with the 6.7L is that from an initial look, yes, the underhood packaging is quite overwhelming. However, once you remove the upper intake, the whole top of the engine opens up. It's quite amazing, so if your bored one day and have a few minutes...
Design for service was a priority when the 6.7L engine design was still a blank sheet of paper. Moving the fuel injectors outside the rocker covers, relocating the high pressure fuel pump to the front of the engine, eliminating the 3 bolt flanges at the turbo up-pipes in favor of an accessible marmon type flange/clamp design were incorporated to improve serviceability. The location of the EGR cooler assembly on the RH valve cover allows for it to be removed and on the bench in approx. 20 minutes if needed.
There are many other subtle details like thermostat access, engine sensor locations, the quarter turn (120 degree) oil drain plug or the label on the oil cooler to let you guys know that there's an internal fastener before someone tries to pry the cooler loose once the external fasteners are removed. These design aspects were incorporated to provide a highly serviceable engine package.
The only repair that cab removal is still the primary method (but not the only) is for a complete engine rebuild with either a long block or short block. The reason being that you can't lift the engine high enough for the cast upper oil pan assembly to clear the #1 cross member before the turbo hits the cowl.
However, there are situations where the cab is unable to be removed for major engine service. These situations typically arise with major conversions such as lift trucks or other instances where either a box, camper, etc. have been added that overhangs the production cab. In these situations the engine CAN be service without removing the cab but requires a little more service time as you must remove the upper oil pan first.
It's probably helpful to know that you can actually remove the upper oil pan without removing the engine mounts. This is quite nice as you need no upper engine support while working with the truck on a hoist.
-Paul
I think I am spoiled. On both of my John Deere tractors, the cab is on a hinge. You can tilt it over to gain access to the transmission and rear end. It tilts over partially without taking hardly anything loose. If you need to tilt it farther then you disconnect the hydraulic and throttle controls and linkages. John Deere has some good engineers- that's why I buy their stuff.
Back in the 90's you had to take a hoist and completely lift the cab off.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,598
Likes: 5
From: Maryland
People are still just gun shy from the 6.0! By the way, there is no reason to pull the cab to remove the turbo on a 6.0. I'm far from being a Ford Tech and 9 times out of 10 I can pull a 6.0 turbo in about 10 minutes flat unless the bolts are seized up on it. The only thing on a 6.0 that really requires cab removal is head gaskets. Even they can be done in-frame, but it's much easier with the cab off.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 266
Likes: 1
From: Sunshine Coast, BC
I was at the dealership yesterday trying to convince them (unsuccessfully) that they should reset my TPMS and there was a superduty with the cab lifted.
I must say it gave me a queasy feeling. Not sure if it was a 6.0 or 6.4 since I was too busy telling the pecker head to just hook up his gadget to my truck and let's find the place and set that thing. He said he couldn't because dude with lifted cab was paying $130/hr to get his trucked worked on. From the look of it it, I don't think this was warranty work.
Anyway, here's hoping none of us have to have cab lifted. Jeeze, it's like open heart surgery or something.
I must say it gave me a queasy feeling. Not sure if it was a 6.0 or 6.4 since I was too busy telling the pecker head to just hook up his gadget to my truck and let's find the place and set that thing. He said he couldn't because dude with lifted cab was paying $130/hr to get his trucked worked on. From the look of it it, I don't think this was warranty work.
Anyway, here's hoping none of us have to have cab lifted. Jeeze, it's like open heart surgery or something.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,598
Likes: 5
From: Maryland
Actually lifting the cab is a very simple procedure for anybody that has done it before. A crewcab can be up in the air in 1 to 1.5 hrs depending on the tech. People freak out about it, but it makes major work on the motor so much easier. I've seen techs that pull the engine to do head gaskets before. I'll take the cab any day of the week over doing that.
New User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
6.7 turbo gasket
Good morning y’all. I recently purchased a 2011 f250 with the 6.7 turbo diesel. I had it 6 days and noticed a major oil leak under the truck. Took it to the dealership and they informed me it’s the “turbo gasket” that is leaking. And said they would have to pull the cab to replace the gasket. And to also inspect the turbo to make sure it isn’t cracked. They hit me with “it is gonna be around $1,100 to change the gasket because we have to pull the cab”. From the research I have done it looks as though they shouldn’t need to pull the cab to replace the gasket. Can anyone shed any onsite or light on this for me please before I am handed a large bill for a $30 gasket.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 117
From: Tallassee, ALabama
Cab removal is not required for turbo removal. Ask them to show you the flat rate manual or what Ford states as the hours required to change turbo.
Below is from the 2014 Ford Workshop DVD for Turbo removal and replacement. There might be 4 to 8 hours labor. but no cab removal required.
Removal
NOTICE: The engine oil must be changed any time the turbocharger is removed from the engine. The passages in the block underneath the turbocharger are direct passages to the lubrication system. Debris and or coolant may enter lubrication system and engine damage may occur.
Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Drain the primary engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03B .
Remove the lower intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-01C .
Disconnect the heater core inlet hose from the heater inlet tube.
Remove the lower bolt and heater core inlet tube.
Inspect O-ring seal for damage, replace if necessary.
Disconnect the turbocharger actuator electrical connector.
If equipped, disconnect the turbocharger wastegate actuator vacuum hose.
Remove the 3 bolts and turbocharger heat shield.
NOTE: Mark the position of the exhaust upper downpipe clamp for installation.
Loosen the exhaust upper downpipe clamp.
Remove the RH fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .
Remove the exhaust upper downpipe bracket bolt.
Remove the 2 exhaust lower downpipe-to-catalyst and particulate filter assembly bolts and remove the downpipe assembly.
Discard the exhaust upper downpipe clamp.
Loosen the RH turbocharger inlet pipe clamp and slide the clamp off the turbocharger.
Discard the clamp after turbocharger is removed.
Loosen the LH turbocharger inlet pipe clamp and slide the clamp off the turbocharger.
Discard the clamp after turbocharger is removed.
NOTE: Use a 3/8 inch Jiffy-tite quick line disconnect tool, such as Snap-on® LDTSP4 or equivalent, to disconnect the turbocharger coolant outlet tube.
NOTE: If necessary, remove the turbocharger heat shield and discard the bolts.
Disconnect the turbocharger coolant outlet tube from the turbocharger.
NOTE: Lift the turbocharger off locating dowels before positioning forward for removal.
NOTE: The turbocharger is a tight fit between cowl and injection pump fuel lines but comes out without removing fuel lines.
Remove the 4 bolts and the turbocharger.
Discard the turbocharger gasket and bolts.
NOTE: Use a 3/8 inch Jiffy-tite quick line disconnect tool, such as Snap-on® LDTSP4 or equivalent.
Disconnect the turbocharger coolant outlet tube at the center housing and secure tube off to the side.
NOTE: Use a 3/8 inch Jiffy-tite quick line disconnect tool, such as Snap-on® LDTSP4 or equivalent.
If servicing or replacing the turbocharger, disconnect the turbocharger oil supply tube from the turbocharger oil supply fittings.
Discard the oil supply tube.
Inspect the turbocharger coolant outlet tube fitting at the center housing of the turbocharger and replace, as necessary.
Installation
If removed, install the coolant outlet tube fitting at the center housing of the turbocharger.
Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).
If removed, install the turbocharger oil supply tube, first to the top of the turbocharger oil supply tube fitting and then to the front of the fitting.
Position the new LH and RH turbocharger inlet pipe clamps on the inlet pipes.
Wipe turbocharger valley clean of all oil and debris.
NOTE: Make sure the spring clip for the coolant outlet tube is on the turbocharger before installing the turbocharger on the engine.
NOTE: The turbocharger is a tight fit between cowl and injection pump fuel lines but can be installed without removing fuel lines.
NOTE: Position the turbocharger on locating dowels when installing.
Using a new gasket, install the turbocharger and the 4 new bolts finger tight.
Position the LH turbocharger inlet pipe and clamp to the turbocharger.
Do not tighten at this time.
Position the RH turbocharger inlet pipe and clamp to the turbocharger.
Do not tighten at this time.
Tighten the turbocharger bolts to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft) in sequence shown.
NOTE: The LH turbocharger inlet pipe clamp nut should be in vertical position.
Tighten the LH turbocharger inlet pipe and clamp to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
NOTE: The RH turbocharger inlet pipe clamp nut should be in vertical position.
Tighten the RH turbocharger inlet pipe and clamp to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
Disengage the new exhaust upper downpipe clamp T-bolt and loosely install the clamp on the turbocharger.
Position the exhaust downpipe assembly in the vehicle and hand tighten the exhaust upper downpipe bracket bolt.
Do not tighten the exhaust upper downpipe bracket bolt at this time.
Install the 2 exhaust lower downpipe-to-catalyst and particulate filter assembly bolts and hand tighten.
Do not tighten the exhaust lower downpipe-to-catalyst and particulate filter assembly bolts at this time.
Tighten the exhaust upper downpipe bracket bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Engage the new exhaust upper downpipe clamp T-bolt and position the clamp as marked during removal.
Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
Install the turbocharger heat shield and 3 bolts.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Tighten the 2 exhaust lower downpipe-to-catalyst and particulate filter assembly bolts to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Install the RH fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .
Position the coolant outlet tube and install it into the turbocharger spring clip fitting.
If equipped, connect the turbocharger wastegate actuator vacuum hose.
Connect the turbocharger actuator electrical connector.
NOTE: Lubricate the O-ring seal with engine coolant.
Install the heater core inlet tube and lower bolt.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Connect the heater core inlet hose to the heater inlet tube.
Inspect the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) and CAC tubes for metal particles. Carry out the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) Cleaning. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 .
Install the lower intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-01C .
Remove and discard the engine oil filter.
Drain the engine oil by turning the oil pan drain plug one quarter turn Counterclockwise (CCW).
Install the engine oil pan drain plug and tighten one quarter turn Clockwise (CW).
NOTE: Lubricate the engine oil filter seal with clean engine oil.
Install a new engine oil filter.
Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in) then an additional 180 degrees.
Fill the engine with the correct motor oil for the climate. For additional information, refer to Description and Operation in Section 303-01C .
Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Evaluate the primary cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Condition Evaluation in Section 303-03B .
Perform the cooling system pressure test. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03B .
NOTE: This step is required only when a new turbocharger is being installed.
After the new turbocharger is installed, using a diagnostic scan tool, perform the following:
Reset/clear the specified function for the turbo system.
Clear the continuous PCM DTCs and reset the emissions monitors information in the PCM.
Refer to Section 2 of the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.
Below is from the 2014 Ford Workshop DVD for Turbo removal and replacement. There might be 4 to 8 hours labor. but no cab removal required.
Removal
NOTICE: The engine oil must be changed any time the turbocharger is removed from the engine. The passages in the block underneath the turbocharger are direct passages to the lubrication system. Debris and or coolant may enter lubrication system and engine damage may occur.
Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Drain the primary engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03B .
Remove the lower intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-01C .
Disconnect the heater core inlet hose from the heater inlet tube.
Remove the lower bolt and heater core inlet tube.
Inspect O-ring seal for damage, replace if necessary.
Disconnect the turbocharger actuator electrical connector.
If equipped, disconnect the turbocharger wastegate actuator vacuum hose.
Remove the 3 bolts and turbocharger heat shield.
NOTE: Mark the position of the exhaust upper downpipe clamp for installation.
Loosen the exhaust upper downpipe clamp.
Remove the RH fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .
Remove the exhaust upper downpipe bracket bolt.
Remove the 2 exhaust lower downpipe-to-catalyst and particulate filter assembly bolts and remove the downpipe assembly.
Discard the exhaust upper downpipe clamp.
Loosen the RH turbocharger inlet pipe clamp and slide the clamp off the turbocharger.
Discard the clamp after turbocharger is removed.
Loosen the LH turbocharger inlet pipe clamp and slide the clamp off the turbocharger.
Discard the clamp after turbocharger is removed.
NOTE: Use a 3/8 inch Jiffy-tite quick line disconnect tool, such as Snap-on® LDTSP4 or equivalent, to disconnect the turbocharger coolant outlet tube.
NOTE: If necessary, remove the turbocharger heat shield and discard the bolts.
Disconnect the turbocharger coolant outlet tube from the turbocharger.
NOTE: Lift the turbocharger off locating dowels before positioning forward for removal.
NOTE: The turbocharger is a tight fit between cowl and injection pump fuel lines but comes out without removing fuel lines.
Remove the 4 bolts and the turbocharger.
Discard the turbocharger gasket and bolts.
NOTE: Use a 3/8 inch Jiffy-tite quick line disconnect tool, such as Snap-on® LDTSP4 or equivalent.
Disconnect the turbocharger coolant outlet tube at the center housing and secure tube off to the side.
NOTE: Use a 3/8 inch Jiffy-tite quick line disconnect tool, such as Snap-on® LDTSP4 or equivalent.
If servicing or replacing the turbocharger, disconnect the turbocharger oil supply tube from the turbocharger oil supply fittings.
Discard the oil supply tube.
Inspect the turbocharger coolant outlet tube fitting at the center housing of the turbocharger and replace, as necessary.
Installation
If removed, install the coolant outlet tube fitting at the center housing of the turbocharger.
Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).
If removed, install the turbocharger oil supply tube, first to the top of the turbocharger oil supply tube fitting and then to the front of the fitting.
Position the new LH and RH turbocharger inlet pipe clamps on the inlet pipes.
Wipe turbocharger valley clean of all oil and debris.
NOTE: Make sure the spring clip for the coolant outlet tube is on the turbocharger before installing the turbocharger on the engine.
NOTE: The turbocharger is a tight fit between cowl and injection pump fuel lines but can be installed without removing fuel lines.
NOTE: Position the turbocharger on locating dowels when installing.
Using a new gasket, install the turbocharger and the 4 new bolts finger tight.
Position the LH turbocharger inlet pipe and clamp to the turbocharger.
Do not tighten at this time.
Position the RH turbocharger inlet pipe and clamp to the turbocharger.
Do not tighten at this time.
Tighten the turbocharger bolts to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft) in sequence shown.
NOTE: The LH turbocharger inlet pipe clamp nut should be in vertical position.
Tighten the LH turbocharger inlet pipe and clamp to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
NOTE: The RH turbocharger inlet pipe clamp nut should be in vertical position.
Tighten the RH turbocharger inlet pipe and clamp to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
Disengage the new exhaust upper downpipe clamp T-bolt and loosely install the clamp on the turbocharger.
Position the exhaust downpipe assembly in the vehicle and hand tighten the exhaust upper downpipe bracket bolt.
Do not tighten the exhaust upper downpipe bracket bolt at this time.
Install the 2 exhaust lower downpipe-to-catalyst and particulate filter assembly bolts and hand tighten.
Do not tighten the exhaust lower downpipe-to-catalyst and particulate filter assembly bolts at this time.
Tighten the exhaust upper downpipe bracket bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Engage the new exhaust upper downpipe clamp T-bolt and position the clamp as marked during removal.
Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
Install the turbocharger heat shield and 3 bolts.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Tighten the 2 exhaust lower downpipe-to-catalyst and particulate filter assembly bolts to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Install the RH fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 .
Position the coolant outlet tube and install it into the turbocharger spring clip fitting.
If equipped, connect the turbocharger wastegate actuator vacuum hose.
Connect the turbocharger actuator electrical connector.
NOTE: Lubricate the O-ring seal with engine coolant.
Install the heater core inlet tube and lower bolt.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Connect the heater core inlet hose to the heater inlet tube.
Inspect the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) and CAC tubes for metal particles. Carry out the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) Cleaning. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 .
Install the lower intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Section 303-01C .
Remove and discard the engine oil filter.
Drain the engine oil by turning the oil pan drain plug one quarter turn Counterclockwise (CCW).
Install the engine oil pan drain plug and tighten one quarter turn Clockwise (CW).
NOTE: Lubricate the engine oil filter seal with clean engine oil.
Install a new engine oil filter.
Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in) then an additional 180 degrees.
Fill the engine with the correct motor oil for the climate. For additional information, refer to Description and Operation in Section 303-01C .
Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Evaluate the primary cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Condition Evaluation in Section 303-03B .
Perform the cooling system pressure test. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03B .
NOTE: This step is required only when a new turbocharger is being installed.
After the new turbocharger is installed, using a diagnostic scan tool, perform the following:
Reset/clear the specified function for the turbo system.
Clear the continuous PCM DTCs and reset the emissions monitors information in the PCM.
Refer to Section 2 of the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 187
Likes: 2
Good morning y’all. I recently purchased a 2011 f250 with the 6.7 turbo diesel. I had it 6 days and noticed a major oil leak under the truck. Took it to the dealership and they informed me it’s the “turbo gasket” that is leaking. And said they would have to pull the cab to replace the gasket. And to also inspect the turbo to make sure it isn’t cracked. They hit me with “it is gonna be around $1,100 to change the gasket because we have to pull the cab”. From the research I have done it looks as though they shouldn’t need to pull the cab to replace the gasket. Can anyone shed any onsite or light on this for me please before I am handed a large bill for a $30 gasket.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10,081
Likes: 636
From: NH
If I had to work on the 6.7L, I'd probably opt for cab removal. The trucks are high off the ground, you really can't lean into the engine bay without being on a step ladder. You might have the 1.5 hours into cab removal, but then everything is so easily removed.
A tip-forward hood and fenders would be amazing on a truck like this. I'm worried the 2018 GM 4500 / 5500 will have this feature and it will be a major service advantage and cut into Ford sales.
That said, the EGR cooler doesn't look terribly hard on a 6.7L. Turbo sits pretty far back, but with upper intake removed there would be access.
A tip-forward hood and fenders would be amazing on a truck like this. I'm worried the 2018 GM 4500 / 5500 will have this feature and it will be a major service advantage and cut into Ford sales.
That said, the EGR cooler doesn't look terribly hard on a 6.7L. Turbo sits pretty far back, but with upper intake removed there would be access.