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I am in the process of building an engine for my god fathers truck. We found a 95 F 150 with the 302, and the AODE, not E4OD. Truck is 4x4 and will be used as a daily driver. The motor has bad block. we found a donor motor with a good block, but the heads are different, as the donor came from a car. We plan on changing the cam to the truck cam,installing rings, bearings, etc.
I know these arent great pics, and I will be working to get a ID number off the heads. Can you tell me which head would yeild the best power and efficiency, this truck will not be a speedster, just a work truck
The casting numbers on the heads are on the bottom (combustion chamber side) in the area that overhangs the valve galley. It will be a 4 letter/digit code such as E7TE which is probably what your trucks heads are and E6SE which is probably what the car head is. The kidney bean-shaped combustion chamber is the giveaway. Toss them into the nearest scrap pile and forget about them. They are just about the worst small block Ford head ever cast. The truck heads (assuming that they are the E7TE's) aren't spectacular, but they aren't bad. They are the same head that was on the famous 5.0L HO motors. I would definitely choose them for the new engine. Also make sure that you use the truck motor pistons or new ones spec'ed for the truck. The car engine pistons are probably the true flat tops without valve reliefs. You may well end up with valve to piston interference problems when using the car true flat tops with the E7TE truck heads. Using the roller truck cam is a good choice.
I was wondering about the pistons, and the Flat Top Vs, the Pistons with the cuts in them. I will be tossing the heads to the side from the car, Was my other thought also. The Truck heads, were clean, just thinking about sending them out and having them checked since the PO did run water in and froze the motor supposidly. Never did get the full story. Thanks for the beginning insights
If those are E6 heads, I'll bet the pistons do not have notches cut into them for valve clearance. As I understand it, the engines with the E6 heads had shorter valves set deeper into the heads and there was no danger of valve float/piston interference.
Short answer, don't try to put the E7 heads on the engine with no valve notches in the pistons.
I'm not sure why people slag the E6 heads. I have an 86 Mustang GT with the E6 heads and I get above 27 mpg when I drive 75-85 mph between Boise and Salt Lake City. The engine has tons of torque. I would use the 86 Mustang engine in a truck any day. If I were going through the engine, I'd be dang sure the pistons were zero-decked. I would also consider shaving the E6 head to raise compression slightly.
But I have some GT40p heads that will be swapped onto my Mustang's engine when the time is right.
TQ and power are all relative, any 5.0 will feel weak in a truck compared to a mustang simply because on avarage trucks are 1000-1500lbs heavier. That's also the reason there is absolutely no chance you'll ever see 20+mpg from a 5.0 in a truck.
With a stock cam there is also no chance of P-V interference with any of these heads, cam duration and lift are simply too low to be an issue. But if I were you I'd want to know what cam is in this motor. There are two possibilities, if it's a HO it will have a healthy roller cam, but if the motor came from a Crown Vic or Towncar it will have a puny bumpstick that absolutely strangles the motor.. so it should go. If the block is setup for a roller cam swap in the one out of the truck block, but if it's a flat tappet motor get a Comp 35-255-5 kit to swap in. The cam can be measured in the block by simply setting up a dial gauge on one of the pushrods(rocker removed), that will tell lobe lift. 0.237" lift will be the CV cam while the HO cam generates 0.276" lift.
Paul,
I am going to swap the truck cam in, the car block aka donor had a roller cam, My biggest concern were the obvious difference in the pistons, and heads. I am sure that i wont see 20 in a truck, let alone with 302. Not my favorite motor for a truck, but have had good experience with them.
aj, yes, the donor engine will work just fine. Freshen it up (rings, bearings, timing chain, valve job) and swap the cam. Let's not make a simple thing complicated. It will work great.
Last edited by pcmenten; Nov 8, 2010 at 12:09 PM.
Reason: Add detail.
Paul, Sounds good. I am a novice when it comes to building engines, I havent taken on much of them I will run the donor motor, donor heads, TRUCK CAM, new timing chain, Valve Job, ALL BEARINGS, Oil Pump, Oil Pan Etc.
I am very particular about wanting things right, I like to research everything. I have a friend helping me since I am recovering from a fractured femur, out of service 6 to 8 months
aj, be certain that you zero-deck the pistons. The factory usually installs pistons that are slightly below deck, so you might end up decking the block to get a zero deck. If you want to know the reasons for zero-decking, I'll be happy to explain why.
The short answer is; zero-decking gives better power and efficiency. But, how it happens will take a rather long explanation.
I wouldn't be afraid to reuse one of the oil pumps. If the old bearing in either of the engines are in good condition, open up the oil pump from that engine and give it a look. Chances are good that if the bearings are good, the oil pump will be good.
With the nice weather, I am trying to find someone to pressure wash the block, heads and etc. I am layed up with a broken leg. Bearings, rings, and all the goodies arrived today. YES the HEADS were E6, A little freshen with the ball hone, new seals, and we are good to go