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HELP rebuilding motor

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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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HELP rebuilding motor

so i have a 429 that i will be building this winter, i would like to make 400+ hp, should i do a 514 stroker or should i build that 429 really well and put aluminum heads, i figure that the stroker kit and the heads are close to each other money wise, so i can do one or the other, which will get me the power i want, the truck will be a cruiser for the most part but would like to own some ricers and ponies as well, and occasionally take it to the strip.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 01:31 PM
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No point in doing the stroker if you can't afford the heads. So I say build the 429 and get the heads. BTW, if you do go stroker, I'd probably go ahead and get the cylinders bored .030 giving you a 521. It's stupid easy to build 385's to 400+hp...and with a good set of heads, it'll be even easier. So forget the rotating assembly for now, and focus on the top end.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 704 dentside man
No point in doing the stroker if you can't afford the heads. So I say build the 429 and get the heads. BTW, if you do go stroker, I'd probably go ahead and get the cylinders bored .030 giving you a 521. It's stupid easy to build 385's to 400+hp...and with a good set of heads, it'll be even easier. So forget the rotating assembly for now, and focus on the top end.
So with a good cam, heads, roller rockers, etc how much roughly are we looking at hp wise, i want to get as much bang for my buck i heard aluminum heads add 50hp i figured its probably not that much. but what do i know i'm new to the building motor stuff, also whats a good aggresive cam i really like the thumping sound not to bad like the drag cars but enough to sound really sexy.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 03:23 PM
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Your best money can be spent on the bottom, get the rotating assembly, (crank,pistons, rods,flywheel and dampner )ballanced. Once this is done, you can do whatever you want in the future to build HP and never have to rebuild the bottom. My 429 was stock for the most part but it was all proffessionaly ballanced, and with only a few other mild changes and a decent cam made 350hp with cast heads but turned 6500rpm with out floating the valves. If you start on the top end you can only go so far before you need to tear the bottom apart. What the factory calls ballanced and what a race shop calls ballanced is night and day, and the performance difference is incredible.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by duste
Your best money can be spent on the bottom, get the rotating assembly, (crank,pistons, rods,flywheel and dampner )ballanced. Once this is done, you can do whatever you want in the future to build HP and never have to rebuild the bottom. My 429 was stock for the most part but it was all proffessionaly ballanced, and with only a few other mild changes and a decent cam made 350hp with cast heads but turned 6500rpm with out floating the valves. If you start on the top end you can only go so far before you need to tear the bottom apart. What the factory calls ballanced and what a race shop calls ballanced is night and day, and the performance difference is incredible.


really, well i've heard from people that whats the point of having a 514 if it can breath and blow the exhaust out very well, so many people have said go with the heads, i've done some research and they say the 429 came with like 365 ish hp back in the day so i figure with an aggresive cam and heads, good exhaust, good intake and carb setup, roller rockers, some electric fans an some other **** that hopefully 400+ would be attainable. correct me if i'm wrong
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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400 horsepower is stupid easy with a 429/460. Edelbrock RPM, Offy POS, or something along the lines of a single plane with a cam with 235+ degrees @ .050 with headers and free flow exhaust.

As for heads, stock is good with a decent port, or pony up for some CJ or some nice Kaase heads. With the latter you'll be looking at nearly 500 with a cam of 250+ @ .050.

For streetability go with a 750 carb, for power you'll need 850+ CFM.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
400 horsepower is stupid easy with a 429/460. Edelbrock RPM, Offy POS, or something along the lines of a single plane with a cam with 235+ degrees @ .050 with headers and free flow exhaust.

As for heads, stock is good with a decent port, or pony up for some CJ or some nice Kaase heads. With the latter you'll be looking at nearly 500 with a cam of 250+ @ .050.

For streetability go with a 750 carb, for power you'll need 850+ CFM.

Josh

so do you think the aluminums will really do alot better than the dove-c with a good port job? i'm just trying to get as much out of it as i possibly can i would love more power streetability isn't much of a worry for me
 
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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If I am spending your money I would go with a set of aftermarket heads. The engineering behind them will almost always trump the original heads.

And consider, whether it's Edelbrocks ($1500) or SVT CJ heads ($1700), they are ready to go, even if you have to swap springs to match your cam. With used heads you still need machine work, valves, hardware, porting etc, so in the end the cost difference ends up being very little.

Of course TFS, AFR or Kaase command bigger bucks.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by shadow_almanza
really, well i've heard from people that whats the point of having a 514 if it can breath and blow the exhaust out very well, so many people have said go with the heads, i've done some research and they say the 429 came with like 365 ish hp back in the day so i figure with an aggresive cam and heads, good exhaust, good intake and carb setup, roller rockers, some electric fans an some other **** that hopefully 400+ would be attainable. correct me if i'm wrong
What I was reffering to was not stoking or boring the engine out, but just ballancing all the rotating pieces. Putting alot of money into heads and cams before doing the bottom is building backwards. If you get the top end built up and leave the bottom alone it you will not get all the performance or HP you paid for. It all depends I guess on what your final goal is for this engine. If you check with any good engine shop they will tell you that this is the way to build a performance engine. I had to be convinced of this years ago and once a pro builder showed me the difference in a ballanced driveline and an unballanced one, then it was a totall no-brainer and immediately decided to have him ballance it. The ballancing will also change it's RPM range which could mean that the camshaft you pick now will not be the one that will work the best after it's ballaced. If you have a shop in your area capable of machining and ballancing an engine then it may be worth going to see them and getting thier opinion on your build.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:20 AM
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go to( re in carnation). high performance bbf clean up your stock heads best money spent imo
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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The problem with rebuilding heads and not freshening up the cylinders is they can uncover ring sealing problems and wear that weren't or apparent there before.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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well guys which alum heads are best the ford racing cj, or edelbrock, or trick flows, well when i get it rebuild it will get bored .030 over with the forged bottom end, balanced for sure. and will the machine shop now which cam will work best with the heads i decide to go with? what all should i tell them or let them know?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Good luck finding forged 429 pistons. I had a set on back order for 6 mo. Speed pro moved oversees and don't make them anymore. My engine builder can have them made but are $100 each. Just get a pre 79 460 crankshaft or go ahead and stroke it. If I didn't already have the eagle rods I would stroke mine out.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:53 PM
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Try here: Big Block Ford Pistons Dome Top 429 460 Stroker Pistons CP Bullet
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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well i think a little while back and i think i found some forged pistons
 
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