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Has anyone used the stuff you paint over rust that locks out the moisture? I'm gonna do some massive work on my girl in the spring. I'm thinking about blasting the frame, shackles etc. and wondering if this "epoxy " coating really works. I live in upstate NY, so I need to do all I can to preserve my baby.
there is a company out there called eastwood dealing with restoration products. I use it on my truck for the frame of course and as long as you use the product correctly by the directions it works. There is a rust inhibitor, rust preventor, rust incapsulator, then chassis black. It works its been 6 months and still no rust showing on my shackles.
POR-15....its expensive around 40 bucks a quart but its indestructible. Did my '04 Jeep Wrangler's frame and underbody in it. I wheel it regularly in the rocks and it still looks black after 5 years. I plan on doing this with my F350 as well. I also did the rusted out bed of my 1978 F150 with it and then bedlined over that. Just be careful, I knocked over a small amount on my friends shop cement floor and the 3ft circle will not come up with anything short of a jack hammer!
I used POR-15 on my 86 mustang..Parts of it worked very well... I used about a gallon and a half. And i do plan on using it on my F-250's frame this winter. If you've ever used/sprayed silicone in your place of work, dont use POR, you will get the "Fish Eye" in the paint.
Don't hold your breath , nothing ,,,is stronger than rust ...Absolutely , Nothing ....Rust is like cancer Or tooth decay, it has to be removed ...Period...there is no magic product to make it go away ....
None , zero , nada..No matter what they claim.....
If you remove all of the rust , you may have a chance
POR15 on car frame I restored 13 years ago. It was very rusty but is still bright, shiny and rust free. The prep work is key, follow the instruction to the letter. If you get it on your skin be prepared to wear it for a month lol
Hey Rick, that looks like the first time I tried POR15. I didn't follow the prep instructions........I ground the metal down to bare, shinny metal....it faded then peeled. It doesn't like to be applied to bare metal, flaking rust or metal coating (galvanized ect). After I cleaned it the POR15 I prepped the surface again and then let a coat of rust form on it. I wire brushed the loose stuff and reapplied. It's been good ever since.
BTW: There used to be two types of POR15, one type can not be left out in the sun....no UV protection.
There are so many factors when it comes to doing this.
One product cant work on everything.
All due respect T, What do you mean ?
It has been my experience(almost 40 years) nothing stops rust from happening ..If it is there , it needs to be removed ,completely . Keeping things clean & dry & free from chloride are the best defense against rust ...Sunday driven vehicles don't usually rust (again)
I have used at least 3 different brands of rust encapsulation products over the years , & used the vehicles daily .
They all failed...Rust is stronger than steel. Have you ever left a ball mount in the hitch too long? ...
I have seen it split DOM tubing ....Chrome is tougher than paint by a long shot , but the steel still rusts under it ...
I'm just saying for any sort of preventative measures when they are taking, there are all sorts of factors involved. Worse off being the human one, but one product cannot be tuned to protect to many different metals.
Depending on what type of metal it is and its composition will help determine the way it rusts as well. Iron Oxide is very strong, and thats the idea behind the POR15, it's just turning it into a coating.
There is only so much you can do. The best option IMO is powder coated frame.