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... and hopefully in another 100k miles when I do another coolant flush.
You know a HD ELC will last longer than 100k miles, yes?
I use Chevron Delo ELC and it's good for 750k miles, or 1 million with an extender.
Most ELC's will be good for between 300k and 600k miles.
Also, I'd recommend you get a thermo housing from Dieselsite. It's billet aluminum and holds up better than the stamped steel OEM piece when multiple take-off and put-back-on's come into play.
Yeah, I know from reading your most excellent posts- no sarcasm, seriously, this is truly enlightening and I love learning this stuff. That was more my cynical sense of humor sneaking through cuz I figure I'll miss something, it'll break, I'll lose fluid all over the road or parking spot and end up doing this again. Hence, an unintentional fluid flush.
Do I need thermo housing as well as the upper and lower parts? I'm looking for the Dieselsite now....
I really like the thermo housing. It's a huge improvement over stock, and allows you multiple reuses if necessary. The stamped steel OEM piece is easily goobered up.
One could argue that for the cost, it's just as easy to have a few OEM replacements in your garage, but I prefer upgrading to the improved version Bob sells.
From Dieselsite, I am going to get the filter system, 203* t-stat and billet housing, so from the below list what do I need or are there duplicate parts-
It seems the t-stat assembly could go (getting 203* from Dieselsite), but the upper and lower t-stat housings are confusing. I've read my Haynes and Ford workshop manual, does the billet housing replace the need for both parts?
Cooling, Radiator and components, Overflow hose, Outlet, THERMOSTAT ASY- $26.56
Cooling, Radiator and components, Thermostat hsng, Upper, Upper- $20.21
Cooling, Radiator and components, Thermostat hsng, Lower, Lower- $44.64
Water pump & lower pump outlet? Should I replace? I've owned the truck five days and driven it 400 miles. I don't think I can even guess if the water pump might need to be replaced. But, for $150 I could save myself... hrs of pain?
From Dieselsite, I am going to get the filter system, 203* t-stat and billet housing, so from the below list what do I need or are there duplicate parts-
It seems the t-stat assembly could go (getting 203* from Dieselsite), but the upper and lower t-stat housings are confusing. I've read my Haynes and Ford workshop manual, does the billet housing replace the need for both parts?
Cooling, Radiator and components, Overflow hose, Outlet, THERMOSTAT ASY- $26.56
Cooling, Radiator and components, Thermostat hsng, Upper, Upper- $20.21
Cooling, Radiator and components, Thermostat hsng, Lower, Lower- $44.64
Water pump & lower pump outlet? Should I replace? I've owned the truck five days and driven it 400 miles. I don't think I can even guess if the water pump might need to be replaced. But, for $150 I could save myself... hrs of pain?
I wouldn't do that 203 stat and billet housing personally. In fact I didn't do that. If you search around there were quite a few people unhappy with the billet housing and leaking. Using the 203 stat is arguable, make your own decision there but logical thinking suggests higher water temp = higher oil temp. Just get a factory replacement housing, stat, hoses, and anything else you might want from parts guy ed and have oem stuff. Tell him what you want and the part numbers magically appear in your shopping cart. It's unlikely you'll ever need to remove or reuse the housing anyway. I bought all that stuff and a new fan clutch and water pump from him and did it all in one shot with the ELC change.
So what is the conventional wisdom regarding coolant filtration? Worth the $100 or maybe not. The truck already has 160k miles, so wouldn't the coolant and tranny already have passed all the residual particulate matter?
IMHO I think Ford just cheaped out on the coolant filter. Look around at diesel engines period, you won't see them w/o filters. There is a pic on here of the drop-out of the SCA in the coolant, that's what eats up your water pump seals among other things.
It took me around 5 hours total for 3 flush cycles and pump replacement. First flush with a garden hose through heater hose T, then 2 flushes with distilled water. Don't forget to remove the thermostat and finger tighten back on the old housing prior to flushing. The Gooch directions are great. I only pulled the driver side engine coolant drain plug during drain and flush cycles though. I am sure others have done it in less time but I prefer a methodical but slower pace.
It took me around 5 hours total for 3 flush cycles and pump replacement. First flush with a garden hose through heater hose T, then 2 flushes with distilled water. Don't forget to remove the thermostat and finger tighten back on the old housing prior to flushing. The Gooch directions are great. I only pulled the driver side engine coolant drain plug during drain and flush cycles though. I am sure others have done it in less time but I prefer a methodical but slower pace.
That sounds about right, I farted around & took about that long with the flush & hoses.
Got the test strips, and as I suspected they came back with "recharge- 1 pt per 4 gallons." So, I think they guy never put any additives in the system. My plan is to put a pint in the degas bottle and let it mix (since the coolant "should" be 50% coolant and 50% water, approx 8 gallons total so 4 gallons of coolant = 1 pt of additive, right?).
Ok, so it refers to total volume and not the 100% coolant volume. Thanks, and this is why FTE rocks! I think I'm going to create a "Complete Idiot's Guide to Owning a 7.3L PSD." I'm already collecting enough notes to make it pretty easy.
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