Question Rebuild-able?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,320
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From: CT
Question Rebuild-able?
So i have the 300 in my 83. Dead of course. Well the pan is dropped, since say 15 years ago. Anyway i might tear the rest of this down. The head, piston, etc. as i now have tools. I guess the engine used to turn over but the pan was dropped and there was nuts, or bolts in it. I think they are still in there. What problem can i expect this to be? We it be rebuild-able? I figure a piston got disconnected from a connecting rod. I don't even know if this engine was rebuilt before it may have been as it isn't the original engine.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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you never know what you'll find until you take it apart. just take your time with it and do it right so it lasts. I only rebuilt my 4.6 in my mustang, which came out fine but I wish I took my time a little more and powder coated everything to keep it looking nice.
I would think you should have the crank checked and probly expect to need some connecting rods/ pistons. Only nuts/bolts I could think of in the oil pan is main caps or rod caps. could have damaged valves and such too if a rod was let loose.
I would think you should have the crank checked and probly expect to need some connecting rods/ pistons. Only nuts/bolts I could think of in the oil pan is main caps or rod caps. could have damaged valves and such too if a rod was let loose.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: CT
Thanks, i will do this right for sure. Crack check for sure, use good parts. Paint it all nice. Upgrade to a 4 barrel etc. This will be the first engine i'll tear apart so it will surly be interesting.
Some pictures of a bolt that i found in the oil pan:
Some pictures of a bolt that i found in the oil pan:
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: CT
Ya i'm sure interested to see how bad it is. I figured it was the rod bolt or something for the bearing. The square head kinda set me off though.
Does alot of high rpm kill these things? I know this things has 4.10 gears and no overdrive, is of a unknown highmileage when put in and another 70k was put on it. My dad sad he pushed this thing on the highway at over the speed limit so probably like 65 at the time. What about a real heavy load at speed?
Does alot of high rpm kill these things? I know this things has 4.10 gears and no overdrive, is of a unknown highmileage when put in and another 70k was put on it. My dad sad he pushed this thing on the highway at over the speed limit so probably like 65 at the time. What about a real heavy load at speed?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
4.10 gears without OD will have the engine in the 2500-3000 RPM range out on the highway, depending on speed. A bit higher than I'd want for extended periods of time, but certainly not unsafe.
This combo will make for good pulling power on the highway, but won't yield the greatest MPG.
Like any other truck, it's all about how you use it as to what engine/trans/rear gear combination is best.
This combo will make for good pulling power on the highway, but won't yield the greatest MPG.
Like any other truck, it's all about how you use it as to what engine/trans/rear gear combination is best.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: CT
Ya 3000 sounds a bit scary for these but it's not like they can't do it. I can imagine this thing pulls like a beast!
I think this might have been a oiling problem. Not sure how the oil was at the time. I know the first one got killed the first 300 due to oiling problems.
I think this might have been a oiling problem. Not sure how the oil was at the time. I know the first one got killed the first 300 due to oiling problems.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
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From: Near Los Angeles
I'm surprised the bolt alone is there. Usually the nut will fly, but the bolt will stay on the rod. When you reassemble it, use a white marker from the auto parts to dab each rod/mail bolt after you torque it to spec. It will help you sleep that night.
Block: hot tank, magnaflux, clean bores with a rebore.
Rods: recondition/replace, balance, according bearings
Pistons: Use new EFI year pistons for a higher c.ratio. Molly rings.
Head: magnafluxed, ported, three angle valve job w/30 degree back cut on intakes. Springs according to cam. New p.rods, lifters. Have machine shop check lifter bores. Use Comp Cams t. gears. $60 Felpro head gasket only. #260 Mr. Gasket int/exh. Convert pan to single piece gasket. New oil pump.
Block: hot tank, magnaflux, clean bores with a rebore.
Rods: recondition/replace, balance, according bearings
Pistons: Use new EFI year pistons for a higher c.ratio. Molly rings.
Head: magnafluxed, ported, three angle valve job w/30 degree back cut on intakes. Springs according to cam. New p.rods, lifters. Have machine shop check lifter bores. Use Comp Cams t. gears. $60 Felpro head gasket only. #260 Mr. Gasket int/exh. Convert pan to single piece gasket. New oil pump.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: CT
The nut is probably in the pan too. It has leaves, some dirt, and dried up oil in there. I just kinda quick looked around and found that.
Thanks for the steps i'll need to do. Should help me alot. Is the marker to check bolt stretch?
I might not got it ported for now. Kinda want to do a cheaperish rebuild. I don't think this has fiber gears as i believe its out of a 70 something econoline though we will find out. When did they switch over to the fiber gears?
Thanks for the steps i'll need to do. Should help me alot. Is the marker to check bolt stretch?
I might not got it ported for now. Kinda want to do a cheaperish rebuild. I don't think this has fiber gears as i believe its out of a 70 something econoline though we will find out. When did they switch over to the fiber gears?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
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From: Near Los Angeles
I would ck the block numbers, and the engine stroke to know if it is a 300 and not a 240.
The marker is to mark each main/rod nut/bolt when you torque them. Then you can scan it and instantly know which got torqued. It ensures good sleep, and prevents rod nuts from dropping into pan, etc.
The marker is to mark each main/rod nut/bolt when you torque them. Then you can scan it and instantly know which got torqued. It ensures good sleep, and prevents rod nuts from dropping into pan, etc.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,320
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From: CT
Another update. Talked to my dad. The engine came out of a 77 econoline. It has allready been rebuilt. Originally a 240 was rebuilt for the van but it didn't work after being rebuilt, so they rebuilt the original engine. My dad got this van in mid late 80's. Probably around 86, 87 to replace the original 300. I have reason to believe that when taken out it had probably around 40,000 or less miles. Another 70,000 guaranteed miles was put on it by my dad while it was in the truck. I have no doubt this was probably rebuilt by idiots, the same people who did the first 240 that never worked. Would explain the low mileage death and losing a rod bolt. I guess that is what happens when you don't torque your bolts down.
