Power window stuck UP
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: VA
Power window stuck UP
Hello,
My drivers side window works great, MOST of the time.
It gets stuck in the up position, then a few days later it works fine again.
It does not seem weak or like it's loosing power, it moves fast and smooth when it works.
It's currently stuck in the up position now, it's been about a week and I think it not comming down.
Could this be the switch?
Thanks
Dan
My drivers side window works great, MOST of the time.
It gets stuck in the up position, then a few days later it works fine again.
It does not seem weak or like it's loosing power, it moves fast and smooth when it works.
It's currently stuck in the up position now, it's been about a week and I think it not comming down.
Could this be the switch?
Thanks
Dan
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
From: Benson, AZ
When window stops working can you lower and raise the Passenger side still from the driver side? also have you pulled the door apart and checked the connections in there.
If you have a test light test the wires going to the window motor as you are hitting the switch there may be a dead spot on the motor that is causing it not to work but the wires are the simplest thing to check first.
If you have a test light test the wires going to the window motor as you are hitting the switch there may be a dead spot on the motor that is causing it not to work but the wires are the simplest thing to check first.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: VA
Hi,
Passenger side window works great, so does the power lock.
I removed the pannel and looked at the wires, wiggeled them around. I did not see any loose / burnt spots on the back od the switch.
I could feel that the motor wires had wirenuts at connections to the motor. I did not remove the motor as I could not clearly see how to remove it.
I do not have a test light but need to get one.
Not sure what to try next.
Dan
Passenger side window works great, so does the power lock.
I removed the pannel and looked at the wires, wiggeled them around. I did not see any loose / burnt spots on the back od the switch.
I could feel that the motor wires had wirenuts at connections to the motor. I did not remove the motor as I could not clearly see how to remove it.
I do not have a test light but need to get one.
Not sure what to try next.
Dan
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
From: Benson, AZ
a test light and some pushpins are going to be the best $5 you can spend. also a wal-mart multi-meter is a good investment i paid $18.00 for mine that will show if you are not getting the full voltage to the motor.
I use the push pins are to pierce the sheathing of the wires. then hook the meter to them. you also don't need to put a huge hole into the wire and they are cheap. also you are less likely to put a test light probe into your finger. (been there done that)
I use the push pins are to pierce the sheathing of the wires. then hook the meter to them. you also don't need to put a huge hole into the wire and they are cheap. also you are less likely to put a test light probe into your finger. (been there done that)
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
On the motor removal, who was it that did my mod with 1/4" nuts in the gear assembly, Wreckingball or RollingCoal maybe? In any case, they have a thread with pictures showing where to drill in the door sheetmetal in order to access the bolts that hold the window motor in place, it's on here somewhere...
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: VA
All,
Thanks for all of the great information.
Where is the best place to get a new switch and or Motor if I need one. Any idea of price?
Thanks
Dan
Thanks for all of the great information.
Where is the best place to get a new switch and or Motor if I need one. Any idea of price?
Thanks
Dan
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
On the motor removal, who was it that did my mod with 1/4" nuts in the gear assembly, Wreckingball or RollingCoal maybe? In any case, they have a thread with pictures showing where to drill in the door sheetmetal in order to access the bolts that hold the window motor in place, it's on here somewhere...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
On the motor removal, who was it that did my mod with 1/4" nuts in the gear assembly, Wreckingball or RollingCoal maybe? In any case, they have a thread with pictures showing where to drill in the door sheetmetal in order to access the bolts that hold the window motor in place, it's on here somewhere...
Another thing to try if you don't have a multimeter handy, watch the voltage meter on the dash. It should move a little when you hit the switch, especially if the motor is trying.
Take the motor out, or at least loosen it enough so that it disengages with the linkage. Hit the switch and see if it works. I think depending on the failure mode of the plastic dowels, they can jam at times and not allow the window to work, but magically loosen up after sitting or driving for a while, and its fine for days/weeks/months. Before I fixed mine, it was fine, unless the window went all the way in and jammed (like stupid passengers tend to do). Part way up or down, never an issue, only when all the way down.
So maybe the OP's got jammed at the top, instead of at the bottom like we usually see. Just something with how the dowels break up, they might wedge in a certain direction only.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
From: Bear, DE
When it's stuck, can you see the volt gauge move when you push the button? If so, the motor is working fine. My truck does this often, only get stuck when fully closed. pull the panel off and give the arm a quick hit downward while pushing the button. Should fix it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Ford already marked where to drill with tiny center punches. When you remove your door panels and skins, you'll see the window motor behind the sheet metal panel. You might not be able to see the center punches if the sheet metal isn't clean in that vicinity. Clean up the sheet metal and you'll see the marks. I used a small drill as a pilot hole and then used the proper sized drill. IIRC, I needed to use a 9/16" bit to clear the socket diameter. Have one of those telescopic magnets handy for this one.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 141
Likes: 1
From: Houma,Louisiana
You haven't mentioned if the motor runs or tries to run when you hit the switch, but this might help.
If the motor is running but the window isn't moving then you only need to replace the gears. I got them at Advance Auto to repair the passenger window on my truck.
If the motor is running but the window isn't moving then you only need to replace the gears. I got them at Advance Auto to repair the passenger window on my truck.