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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 06:15 AM
  #16  
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Pump was primed
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 09:39 AM
  #17  
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From: NoGa.
Originally Posted by cj06
When you put a new oil pump in ether pack it with Vaseline or take a drill and prime the engine before starting it.


That's the way I've always heard it. Oil pumps (when they are hooked up to the drive correctly) sometimes can cavitate and not pick up a prime to begin pumping.

The Ford is especially difficult because the oil filter cannot be filled with oil before installation.

Although the Chilton Manual tells us :

"Before installing the oil pump, prime it by filling the inlet and outlet port with engine oil and rotating the shaft of the pump to distribute it."

I've been told to use Vasline because liquid motor oil will not stay in the pump and hold the prime. I've been told there is no danger because the petroleum jelly will simply dissolve into a liquid when its heated.

I'm not sure how you would prime a Ford oil pump after installing it into the engine with a drill. On General Motors V8's we used to take a shaft out of distributor and chuck that into a drill then use that to prime the oil pump ... but I'm not sure if/how you can engage the oil pump drive shaft on a Ford.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #18  
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From: CASA GRANDE AZ
you can do the same to a ford or any engine where you have access to the distributor . you may have to weld 2 shafts together to reach the pump but i have done that to chevys and dodges also !
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 12:23 PM
  #19  
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From the pic, you're screwed. If you can pull the old shaft you can still do the trick of tacking a shaft to the distributor and installing that way. If you do, make sure depth is right and it doesn't bottom in the pump. Don't allow you to prime unless you make up a rig with another shaft in a drill. Normally to prime you use either a priming tool or a socket on a drill, or crank it by hand on a ratchet of speed wrench. Piece of cake. And I always fill my filters about halfway, maybe a little more, before installing.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 12:36 PM
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He wait, I just realized you're the guy who asked a few days ago on advice for replacing the oil pan gasket/pump/whatever. I told you it would be best to pull the engine, clean it up, inspect everything, and refresh if necessary. At the bery least it would have made the job easier and probably quicker, but you would have got it done right.

Funny, some people never have the time or money to do it right the first time, but somehow always find the time and money to do it again.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #21  
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Well it wasn't to bad getting it up in there. I had the engine jacked up. N it felt like it was in there. Just ended up bring a quarter inch off.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #22  
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sucks cause i can get long needle nose on it, but i cant get it to come out
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 03:33 PM
  #23  
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The pressure of the oil pump being bolted to the block is likely keeping it too tight since it's in a bound position. Also there should be a ring on it to keep it from coming up when pulling the distributor and falling in the oil pan. That ring will keep it from coming out. You need to pull the pump and pan im afraid.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #24  
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i kno im so sick of workin on this ****, had to do the water pump did the timing chain then did the trans and main seal then had to do the pan so i had the trans in and out twice, already, i think pullin the engine will be eaesier then pullin trans n transfer case again
 
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